AKheathen

carb cleaner, let dry, and install. the black on the slides is actually the permenant lube

97 shee running strong havn't rebuilt yet, but i got a 4 poke i'm rebuildin 4 my daughter just anal about fluids and in/out storage

just changed my coolant and other stuff. thaught i'd let u know it worked pretty good, i just dumped some new suff through it to get the old stuff out. same thing with the juggs when i had the cover back on. it gave me a chance to check the impellar too.

engine hasn't run yet, so gaskets will be ok to reuse

a cracked sleve will expand when torqued allowing the bolt to slip

think i'm gonna give it a ry, the heater might be thawed out by now, so i can tip it if i need.

35's sound a bit big for stock stroke. maybey try letting off a little on hard pulls and see if it helps

what kind of money are you trying to come up with? if you want, i can buy that cool head, pay shipping, send my stockker and sell it back when you have money. kinda like a pawn loan :shrug: hate to see you loose it

has anyone used the impeller cover to drain most of the coolant? it's 15 below, and my bike's on the back porch. i'mm switching to dexcool(engine ice doesn't have a low enough freeze point) and i don't want to make a big mess, so i was thinkinf to pull the impeller covers and drain most of it that way, then do the drain plugs to get the rest. i can't really flush it and my propane heater froze up, so i don't want to flip it on it's side under the tarp.

which one is it? either way, it'll need a new one welded in, but if it's th right front, it'll just be easier cus you may be able to weld and retap

go on one of the many online parts stores with the brakedown and see if the part #'s match

imo the power of the pipes and the power of the engine are a closer match, so you'd make way more improvement by doing the carbs first.

i wouldn't straiten it, just see if they could replace it. it's already been weakened

thanx :biggrin:

yep it's shot, get new one, depending on what kind of power curve you want, i might go back to duals. do a search on poll results post, there is some graphs and an awsome writeup by snoop on the setups :thumbsup:

so you checked the voltage at the plug ands it was in spec- regulator good. if you checked between the black wire at the plug, then its all good to the switch. on the switch side of the plug, measure between the yellow/red wire and yellow wire with switch on high, and yellow/red and green wire for low beam with switch on low. yellow/red and blue for tail wit switch in high or low. that will test switch good/bad. also check the plugs on the frame behind the front shocks- could've been forgotten. if you're not getting ground at the headlight, then you need to check the frame ground, but i can't remember where it is.

mm. yu running leaded?

if you are getting good voltage to the bulbs, then the regulator is not the problem. make sure you have good ohm between all black wires, you could have a bad ground from powdercoating, so it would be cood to check that the black wire that connects the stator wire to the frame has good contact

all that white sand; i thaught u were using a stone

87, 88.5, 90. i belive we also have the highest amount of seasonal vehicles per capita. it makes sense to improve air quality with so many running on old gas coming out of storage

yah the br8 is 14 mm. the tip has both sizes in one, i use the same one. that adapter is only for reach- like sticking it in a v8 or v6, where you barely have room to grab the spark plug

don't mean to scare you off, but please do a search

hahahahahahahahahhaha- good stuff :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

sorry too late, i grabbed caliper paint in yellow anyways, instead of headder paint like the white. i'll see if they discollor and switch to yellow if they do

that's weird, i can only get 90 octane because the stations had to get rid of the ethanol few years back