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AKheathen

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Everything posted by AKheathen

  1. that quenstion is kind of confusing, but it can varry as much as 1 mm and more or less needs to be re-adjusted to 21mm from the gasket surface(no gasket) to the top of the black part. holding the carb upside-down :thumbsup:
  2. no noise here, unless one cyliner mises at idle, but i adjust the carbs to fix
  3. no, the only thing that could do that is fuel getting past the needle
  4. it should be stamped on the gasket
  5. u should read the o shit moments thread. we all make simple mistakes- they are the most frequent.
  6. oh, i thaught i added, that was @ sea level :shoothead: i've heard of running smaller domes at higher elevation because your compression will be lower
  7. i don't have a lockup , but i would expect the weights to make niose @ idle, given the gearing between the clutch and crank. with all the lockouts runnin out there, i would've expected someone else to reply by now :shrug:
  8. imo, you can run up to 21cc's +4, on 93 octane no prob. so you're perfectly safe :thumbsup: just make sure you're not lean. (stock jetting @ 25 pilot & 200 main)
  9. ok, i took a tip cleaner, and bored it 'till the next size just fit- i thinkk that's too much, but by the time some 30's show up, i'll be off to work up north.
  10. if it's lean, it will sound zingy, and the throttle may be hesitant. it will also warm up pretty quickly
  11. u guys should post your location in your member info. temp makes huge difference. i started with 27.5's, 310's middle clip, and still too lean. below zero @ sea level
  12. choke tube good between carbs? crack the drain screw to make sure there is fuel in the right bowl. do a compression check. oh yah, sync your carbs :biggrin:
  13. yah i know, but i'm bein cheap right now
  14. ok, i got dcs :laugh: (droopy chain syndrome) i didn't see half link at fast, but they have hundreds on ebay, and i don't know which one for the o-ring chain
  15. ummm..... i typed in "Namura" and got the piston/ring/wristpin pair kit for 109.99 buyitnow. i don't know about Namura, but i do know the technology does provide a verry noticeable increase in power
  16. i don't have experience in replacing the lever, so i don't know if you have to do anything else, but i belive you have to pull the pressure plate and pushrod back, remove the retainer that goe over the top, and pull up. but you could possibly just back the clutch adjuster off a bit, pull the top retainer, an lift it out if you can get a hold of it. :shrug:
  17. woah, all new zip ties :woot: ....but what color? :ermm: custom mustard---that's great :biggrin:
  18. can someone measure the i.d. of a 30 pilot?
  19. alot of people just do it to do it. the tools and time can cost way more than finding one used, but it's nice to have the experience instead
  20. don't forget the new shocks :biggrin: i think they'll have to try harder next year to compete with the new ktm, imo
  21. 4 mill cub drop-in $750.00 in the for sale sec. here jump on it!
  22. i'm not sure about the banshee crank, but the welded crancs on sno-go twins can be rebuilt twice, but if you're goin all in with port work on a new top end, you could probably get a stroker, and be money ahead
  23. bend the tab that the needle sits against. just a little at a time untill you get it right. i like to use a 1/4" flat head screwdriver, and twist back and forth a little, instead of pry
  24. i don't have any pics, but i did see the post in a thread about a month ago, and all you have to do is lengthen the holes clockwise, and curved. find a reference point, like the case halves and mark it. then it's about 1mm per degree. richy stator isn't that bad, but lately they have had some quality controll issues with the flywheels and stator
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