AKheathen

i understand your point, but i i were to sell something like.......reeds, i would type in something like "banshee yfz 350 yamaha atv quad 2 stroke engine reed valve carbon fiber flex power pedal performance racing custom intake mod" etc... ok, maybey not that bad, but you get the pic. i could say something that makes sense, but many people like me think that it's a waste of time to look through 1000 results, and the more key words in your description, the more searches it will turn up in. like if you type in 92 4runner, you'll only get ones that say 90 91 92 93 94 95 4 runner. it's kinda opposite a good internet search engine, where you can exclude key phrazes like "not banshee"

jugg side, but i can't see why not put it on the carb side if you need them. as for atomization, i like the idea of wishfully thinking more fuel atomizes as it hits the hot rotating assembly, leaving the oil there as it takes heat away.

if the pilots are too lean, it will start fine warm, but not cold. it will also run pretty hot just idling. adjust your airscrews when the engine is hot, till the idle is highest. if it's less than 1 turn, go up a pilot size, the choke won't even get it started verry easy with a small pilot. also, did you check for air leaks? the choke side bowl has a little brass bead on the front of it

hear ewe goe

yah, that's way too much. it's probably a bit dodgy at higher speeds too. if you look closely at the threads, you can tell which one is reverse threaded. just loosen the jam nuts a little, and turn the rod to make it longer. turn wheels back and forth, and rock the machine before you check the allignment, after adjusting. make sure the joints aren't twisted when you tighten them the jam nuts, or they will be in a constant bind, and will wear out faster.

if it's cold out, you need to richen up :thumbsup:

the angle where the stinger meets the pipe will moove the pipe in or out

i just bent my silencer pipes so that the angle where they join makes the pipe clock into clearance. i've heard of shimming the frame mounts too.

the jam nuts seal it fine, and it's before the idle circut, so it shouldn't effect starting. what about the airscrews?

sorry dude, bored as hell up here at work

um, can u clarify which center and end?

yah you can either glze it from slipping, or smoke spots on it when the clutch hits and you're not moving. the latter you can do several times to a belt in a single ride, and it will get you back if you don't wanna change it out, or don't have a spare, but like i said, rough as hell. feels like the drive gear is jumpin cogs on the track. breakin the belt is a belt prob, not slipping

imo, you would want to keep the volume of the crank/porting as small as possible to keep it from absorbing the pressure of the pistons' downstroke, as well as feeding the low of the pistons' upstroke limiting the full flow of the reeds' open cycle. i think it would also increase delay time of the recipricating impulses at high speeds. spacing the carbs from the reeds may have a more positive effect though

bingo. with a boost bottle, you can give it just a little, and the power wont snap harder than the clutch can grab the belt and keep you from smokin a spot in the belt, which makes riddin jerky. proper clutching helps too. the shared chamber introduces the x-over feature, thus increasing power. they also don't weigh shit to a sled motor, so the intakes aren't at risk, unless you get one that's not spaced right, but you'd be cussin at it on install.

x2, you unplug the box to disable it, and the biggest reason i see to do the kit is to get the weight off the carbs. i think it's the biggest reason the intakes develop cracks on the bottom. intake cracks = airleak airleak +ride -piston the math tells me cheap insurance. 1x$50.00....beat that GEICO!

minkia38

first what is your allignment set at? you should have a little toe out, and how much depends on the ridding conditions. the most toe out should be 1/4-3/8" if you ride tight to mid trail/mx/mud. high speeds is more like 1/8-1/16", and asphalt would be ideal with 1/16" toe in depending on the joints. as for those spacers, they should hpefully be bolted to the stockk studs, and all you'll need is the nuts and washers. they should be availible at a fastner store. grade 8, and hard washers

2 weeks from today, i think it's th 4th

y, u gettin turned on?

i just use a long screwdriver to reach the right carb

what other mods done with the rebuild? also, if its been a whie since you rode it befor the rebuild, then it's probably alot colder, which needs more fuel. basically the symptoms say "lean" adjust the airscrews in sync till it runs the highest when the bike is hot, and in normal riddin temp, and if it's much more tahn 2 turns out, go leaner on the pilot, or less than 1, go richer. what size are your jetts? worn reeds or cracked cage rubber can cause similar issues too.

and the dots will line up with the windows so you can sync them

i can tell you the boost bottle actually helps with sleds; they don't have a x-over tube stock, and it's easy to smoke a belt on the trails, but it helps keep that from happening. i have heard of indexing years back, but it's not one of those all-popular things. i don't know if facing the plugs tward the intakes is right, but on larger bores and four strokes, there is a higher velocity across the plug which is evident on a plug that has been left in long enough to see the wear. it seems like shiming the plug to get the proper index would be a littl unreliable, and could cause your plug to come loose, but i have been modifying the combustion chambers on different engines to combat which has shown increase in power and efficiency, but that is a story for another day. long story short, i wouuldn't recomend it, but you would probably be better off looking into side gapping instead. :thumbsup:

nu-ah! i have a shinny........... grab bar, and it makes me 10+ mph faster ........that, plus 40 tooth rear, and 22's that balloon like a motha fucker :biggrin: i'm seriously thinkin about buyin it, but then i'd have to find some dune sand races.

go back to general banshee discussion, scroll all the way down, and type "bars" in the search box. i'm 6'1", so can't really tell you what size.