AKheathen

likely has a fouled plug. ceck/ replace the plugs, and put some fresh gas/oil in to start with. and train the carb bowls.

u will be getting less, so prolly jet up, not down

br8 unless ur running alky

i've noticed some people, not really providing any insite or eplination, and it only looks like useless posting, to either get numbers up, or to see how many times at once your name is on the thread page, like someone's gonna log on, see your name everywhere and think "this guy is everywhere! he must be the shit on banshee's" i'm not sayin, like if you sometimes replie "x2" but if there have already been detailed, helpfull posts on, say for example, helping someone with idleing issues. 3-5 peolpe have explaned on how to check spark issues, compression, jetting, syncing, tors circuts, or what ever the situation suggests, and someone barely reads the post, and replies right in the middle, "tors or sync carbs", not noticing that he said that the tors was comletely removed when it was switched to a 2-1 setup. or, simply posting "ditch the boost bottle" when it has no relevance to the clutch issues at hand. now, it wouldn't be an issue if you were actually providing helpfull onfo, and threw in your stupid bb opinion. i guess what i'm sayin is stop flooding serious topics with cheap useless, genaric replies, and post something usefull for once. also, don't jump strait to scapegoating something like tors, boost bottle without giving a second thought as to what it could be, and realizing what that means. think about what it could be, and then stop and really think about what else it could be, and what ever fact you missed, like sayin to replace caps that were already replaced, stated in the original post. i guess that one's a little off subject. i'm just a little annoyed at the captain fucking obviouses out there tryin to look cool. maybey it stms from personal experiences of other guys getting ahead by stating what everyone should know alredy, and the big wigs are too simple too see through the bull shit and realize that they only state the obvious, because that's their peak mentality. so am i wrong here, or does anybody else notice this too?

foamy rocks squirly wrath :beer: haha no kiddin btw, i voted titties :woot: therwise, i would've voted engine, no turbo. in my experience, nobody follows through any good on something when it's a subject that they keep pissin them self off on, for lack of passion. the motor is like a task that is getting acomplished. but, doing a good turbo jobber requests ambition and heart

i'd never atomize oil in a body shop

jeez, nickle is some hard stuff. was it plating, or high nickle sleeves?

hey, i enjoy the fact that i can let of the throttle on a hill shot, to gain traction, and not loose power when i get back in it, and not have to shift down. i didn't wanna give a long, drawn out explination, but here goes. i haqve to travel down a verry icy highway 60 miles with verry limited daylight hours, then go through some verry technical trails, where having to shift really sucks, to get to some hills and open areas. i usually do my work inside, and multiple things at once between rides, because it's been below zero. aside from being inconvenient to work where i'm riddin, things tend to break easily in the cold. before my next ride, i will probably also have reed mods, and changing the silencers, so, i'm simply asking what to expect from the effects on the power curve. i know it'll make power, but i just want to know where, and how it will change. i don't ask many questions, and i'm always on here trying to help as much as i possibly can, when i'm not getting sucked into wasting my time with other peoples sqabbles and games i didn't think it was too much to ask for a little insight...sorry

if you don't have access to the gauges, you could put a coat of oil on the bore, heat the piston up to about 400 degrees, and drop it through the jugg in the proper orientation. then, with the measured ring and cold piston. set the piston on a flat surface with the ring installed, and the gap up. compress the ring with the corresponding feeler gauge in the gap, and measure how far the ring sticks out past the piston.

did you re-chamfer the edges of the ports? you use a t-mic and measure the bore 360 degrees top to bottom. then measure the piston the same with a caliper gauge. also, measure the t-mic in the caliper gauge to ensure accurate readings.

x2 on vacuum leak and sticky slides. push on the slides slightly at half throttle, and se if they, drop down to idle smoothly

i flipped my rims around, and gained about 5 in width, but i dn't know how much is tire; could only be 4 in, but im just over 48". and, sprockets are cheap, if you want better gearing. the stock phillips are actually #3 philips, not the normal #2. if you don't have an impact hand driver, you could just press and turn the screw, and hammer the handle to get them to break loose. i have a fastener store in town, but i bet you can get thm on line, or at an autoparts wearghouse. the heal gaurds aren't that important, i havn't had any slippage, and i had a pretty ruff ride last time with a frozen shock on the front.

as it states, basically. my setup has a really nice wide even feeling torque curve, withoutany real peaks or drops across the range. i know +4 will give more mid punch, but i don't want o loose torque back-up, or have my mid-top to overwhelm the low-end. if it does, what can i do to get it back?

20's. and you will see results with +4

what are the piston clearances/ jugg square? why did you tear down after 1.6 mi?

sounds like a sticking slide, or air leak. most likely the later

next time you do a "dump run" take it with you. the city waste should have a tranfer station, or you could go strait to the dump. they have disposal areas at all the ones i've been to.

if you look at the bar coming down in front of the enginewhere it meets the bottom of the frame under the stator, theere is an overlap piece. at the rear most tip of that overlap piece, the j- (first digit of the vin) is directly below it (the front of the j lines up.) the vin is exactly 3 inches long, and faces directly out- not above or below the middle of the pipe. at least that is on my 97. i don't think it changed at all.

if you want peice of mind, and clean appearance, use a fine flat file, tape the ends for strait lines, and make smoothe slow strokes. when you're satisfied with the way it looks, either use some of the best clear enamel nail finish, or some vht headder clear, and bake it with a heat gun, or carefully with a propane torch, after it dries completely, and it will be just about as durable as the p/c. just use the masking from filing to spray. if you're doing x/c and have military access, i'm sure you'll find some good ridin on base. the base here in town is a great place to ride/ 4x, and you don't have to worry about the other people there or supprise hasards, but they may need to check the vin when you go in.

well it depends on how you ported. (did you take any off the top or bottom of the openings into the sleves?) or did you have it ported by the shop. also, what is your elevation and temp. i'm not sure on those carbs, but you can searck the jetting and exhaust forum to get a pretty good idea of a good starting point. also, what kind of ridding do you do? p.s. i have seen recent topics on the pipes,, and carbs you have.

mine is crooked too. the axle carrier and bolt is wollard out, and either needs replaced, or welded up round again. as far as the chain coming loose, check the sprockett bolts/ holes. when i got mine, the bolts were loose, and if you don't catch it in time, the holes can wear out, making it harder to get on strait.

hat's your jetting? what's the temp?

i may be willin to trade, depending on the port work. if you can find out who did the port work, so i could talk to him. but it wold have to wait a month. find out first.

the funny thing about craftsman, is that they mostly only make hand tools, and put their name on other brands. ie. if you need parts for a craftsman d.a., then look for the i.r. that matches, and order parts for that. so look into other brands of atv jacks, like torrin, jet, kobalt, etcetera. oh, and when they wew baught out, they sent the manufacturing division to be run by companion. so, it may carry the same warrenty, look the same, but not manufactured at U.S. standards

x2, you need to have a builder look at the juggs and tell weather to use a spacer, domes, or need new juggs for the stroker. when given the option, use cut domes