AKheathen

the stator does sound pretty questionable. what's your pickup gap set at? has it warmmed up, or got really humid reecently? what do the plugs look like?

it's pretty easy to set the pickup gap. just roll it over to the node, loosen the screws, and push it up against the node, with the buisness card in between, and tighten the screws=done. you can get all kinds of bolt-on topends and have them built, but you should probably start with the first holly shit mod- pipes. with any airflow mod, like air filter/box setup, reeds, exhaust, etc., make sure your jetting is right, or you can melt your pistons pretty damn quick. there is a jetting section on this forum just for that. make sure you only use the specific flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. they damage easy with other pullers/methods, and you can't always tell. your headlights are on a different circut on the stator, so that's not an indicator for your stator.

snoop knows more about the cdi's, but i would start with the timing set at 0, and try curve 3. i believe it's pretty good right out of the box, but only you can decide if you really need the cable, but i would get comfortable with your new setup for a while, and try different curve/timing configurations first.

210 mains are definatley not enough definately.... what's your temp/elevation, and which fmf's

oh, that's cool. haven't got back home in 3 weeks anyway

it was likely re-wound for more power, and the higher resistance is coming from the few extra wraps. you can test it by hooking a turn signal bulb to the red/white and green/white wires. it should light it bright, and maybey blow the bulb when you kick it over. kick those guys in the nads for charging over $700 without knowing what they are doing and fix it yourself, because you can probably use the money to fix what's really wrong. first things first, clean your stator with electrical cleaner (the plastic/sensor safe kind) and make sure your pickup gap is set on both nodes to buisness card thickness. do a compression check, and check your reeds. does it idle good, but sputter and pop when you try to rev it? if so, make sure your e-brake wires are unplugged from your clutch perch. (if that's the prob. go rub it in their faces before you assault the nadulars) check for melted wires on the exhaust, especially by the airbox. what are your mods, temp, elevation, and jet sizes?

if you run a 200watter, you can power those lights just fine, even at low rpm's i've not heard anything bad about moose stators, or you can have yours rewound at a local eletrical rebuild shop.

why are you using br9's? fresh gas mix? good blue spark? maybey you got something in the carbs. if the floats are sticky, it's probably time for a cleaning anyway.

do a compression check. what's you're temp/elevation?

you're better off changing out one of the bulbs for a 30 or 35 watt. the stock stator max's out @ 100 watts, but only at higher rpm's. it's closer to 70, normally.

what do the plugs look like?

the stock needle was designed to drop into the little stock 200 main. now, it's dropping into a hole 1.5x the size, and lowering it will help lean out the extra fuel. some bikes like the extra, and some less. mine are longer and fatter than stock. don't worry about leaving it where it is, that's what shee likes.

what's your elevation/temp? do you have the lid installed, or snorkel

ok, ifrst off, what's the situational info? did it suddenly start running like this, or was it a rebuild or mods that made it start acting up. it could be a number of things, from electrical, to valve timing, or interenal damage. make sure both plugs/coils are firing, and check compression.

picle fork, or you can make a press out of a bolt, nut, and a piece of pipe. just be carefull not to damage the threads

that's where your fuel comes into play. as you go up in elevation, you need to lean out, when using the same fuel, but, if you need to fuel up at the higher elevations, the local gas stations will have fuel with a different s.g. which needs to be richened up. the higher elevation fuels will run better at high altitudes, so you may want to use that. or, you can just bring a supply of fuel with you, and jet leaner. i believe it's every 2000-3000ft. that the fuel changes. just giving you a heads-up so that you don't fill up half-way through a ride, and then melt a piston. if you notice, some people are running perplexingly large mains for there elevation/mods. this is why.

what kind of chain?

do a plug chop when you get where you're gonna ride. remember that the fuel will probably be different availible at 3000, than a gas station at 5000, which will change jetting by about 2 main sizes, so be prepared to re-jet with some 330's or 340's

well, if you unplugged it, and your still not firing, then you have other issues to deal with. i'd try new plugs, and check for spark

the needle effects everything from idle to 3/4 throttle. it's easier to try adjust the needle real quick, and see how you can get ti to run in the whole range. if it doesn't seem as good in the middle somewhere, then change the pilots, and put the needle back. what carbs are you running?

and you unplugged the little black box?

i wa thinking the same thing. what you should do is pat your self on the back for the effort, and look for something else, like mylar. baybey tou can find a cutting board made of mylar for cheap, or go to a local plastics shop for some scrap. i picked up some 1" for plow wings, and ripped it through some stumps and posts and shit. in the end, it worked out much betterer than the steel wings, which were a pita, when they bent. but anyways, it's some pretty good shit edit=> i ment to say gooderer

yes, this is a common problem. pull the rad/tank plastics and tank, and you can see where it's bent @ the gussets on the bottom. i was just gonna suggest using a 6 foot bar to bend it, but i think i'll try the come-along method. inspect it for cracks before and after you straiten it, because you don't want it to snap and make it worse, or get hurt. if you have acetalene, that would make a huge difference, too, and will keep the metal stronger. shit1 that reminds me- i have to buy more oxy :: shit doesn't last long

when you said those, did you mean the wires attatched to the carbs, or the controll box. which wires did they wiggle? did they show them to you? the controll box has the 3 colors, you can see in the pic, (yellw/black, black, and black/white) the key really is getting the black/white wire disconnected

actually, the needle is the next step. did it help turning the screws out, and still idle healthy, or even idle better? drop the needle 1 clip. are you doing the adjustments with it at operating temparature?