AKheathen

hahahaha... nice sig. :thumbsup:

they do separate like oil and water........ WHEN YOU HEAT IT. that is the refinery process to separate the different hydrocarbon chain majorities from vasiline, greases, diesel, and on up, but it all comes out of the ground combined as crude, and will recombine when mixed.

what oil are you running? check the bottle for s.g. disclaimers

they should just push out the bottom by pushing on the spark plug holes. if it's really hard, screwing in an old sparkplug and pushing on it should help. inspect and clean the o-rings and bosses real good before puting back together, and avoid using solvents on the o-rings.

first thing, get some slack in your throttle cable. that is why your idle screws are not having any affect, and will throw your pilot/ needle setting way off. you may need to go richer on the needle, but you need to get the slack first, then set your needle for midrange throttle, and move to the pilot for direct-off idle. you should be able to raise the rpm's with the airscrews when the pilot is close. it should go up, then back down within 0.5-3 turns from seated

what did you sink the carbs in? :biggrin: were the port durations messed with at all? were the transfers opened up more than just smoothing them? have you done a plug chop? check the pickup gap, and ohm the coil, caps, and check the grounds. what exactly does it do when you get up there? or, should i say- how does it sound?

reed spacers on the cylinder side baisically short circut the transfers at higher rpm's. you want as little airspace as possible between the reeds and transfers.

oh, cool the site's back on the size is m6x1.0, but the problem is that it has a 17mm shank @ 8mm diamiter. if the problem with the dealership is time, you can just tap it out to a m8, with a 15-20mm shank.

i'm thinking we can use this thread untill the site gets fixed. if you have a thread that you are waiting on a response, and it can't wait about 4 hrs, then restate in 1 response, no pics, and we'll try to help, including jetting threads. just so we don't end up with a bunch of double threads, when the site gets fixed :thumbsup:

i thaught bhq was his job.....slacker :biggrin:

:sweat: d.t's already! ::

no shit. tried to click on stator thread, but no posts. thaught it was me. hope there's no virus, cus my comp, was lagged real bad 1/2 hour ago

also, if the bottom bolt is all the way foreward in the slot on the swinger, you may have a larger sprocket in the front or rear. stock is 14/41

i was reffering to the vapor cdi

well, i have pretty much the same setup without porting, and 290's showed at the lean limit @ 70* with probably a little more humidity on the bluff. i'd imagine you to be about 340's. check for airleaks- move the carbs around while you are checking, because they can glaze a but where the intake clamps, but might not leak untill hot. (been there, done that) put the new jet's in and do a plug chop. i say chop this time, because your timing could be causing detonation, even with proper jetting, and you have to look with a magnifying glass, for metal specs. the vapor could put the timing too high with the +4

i cannot agree with that statement. that is exactly how they get the octane rating. start with 100 octane, and add heptane to a controll engine, untill it begains to detonate at the same rate as the fuel in question. so you are doing the same by using 110, and adding 89 to get the detonation properties of 99. there are 100 points to support this, but, put simply, the method has worked since before you were born. in fact, i remember an o.i.t. about using deisel or kerosene to take a reading while diagnosing a knocking engine(not mechanical knock, of caurse)

did you do a leak down and retorque the head yet? which side are the reed spacers on?

ok, first, do a carb sync. you can search on here and youtube to find out how, and then use the exhaust pressures to fine tune the balance. look for exhaust leaks by spraying carb cleaner all around the intakes while it's idling. also, if you still have the tors, they may have to be lubed along with the thrittle cable. i had the same problem, and chased it for a while, from sticky slides to jetting and airleaks, untill i finally narrowed it downto the tors. when it idles up by just touching the throttle, just blip it, and should go back to normal. i was watching the slack in the cable change. i'm just waiting on the tap to get rid of that junk.

ok, i'm supprised this hasn't been asked, but is the choke tube in place/ good condition. problems there will be the same as having a 1/4" hole in the right intake. also, the slides must be in the right carbs, facing correctly; they also have a little relief hole under the cable retainer. the hole shouldn't be covered by the retainer. also, one of the float bowls has a little brass bead in the side of it. this bowl goes on the chokeside carb. all of these things will give you starting/lowend issues

you may also be getting weak spark. check the gap on your pickup, and the gap on the plugs, and make sure it's getting good blue spark. then do a plug chop to check the jetting

leave your needle where it is, and up one on the mains. do a plug chop when you get there, and bring the tools to put your current jets back in if you'r rich when you get there. humidity difference will play a factor, and it's better ro assume it'll be alot dryer than risk being lean all day, or however long it lasts. :thumbsup:

:woot: aaaaakkkk!!!!!!! NO, NO, AND NO!!! ok, first, it will never power a 55watter. 10-13 at the most, which is why i said tail light bulb. a dome light will work, too, but a tail light bulb will put it under a good load. second, it will not really work on a grizzly, stop going to those guys. third, your flywheel probably shit the magnets if you're not getting anything, but are reading resistance, especially if it's been pryed on. fourth, buy your shit online from now on. re- winding a stator should be in the 50 range, not 450 range. i can get you one from a guy on here for 40 + shipping. look in the 4 sale section on here for a flywheel, and call jeff first thing in the morning to get a puller and go from there. he'll probably talk you through checking out your flywheel and stator once you get it off, too.

i don't like how they change the shape againstr the chamber, but it is a reversable porting, if ylou are on the fence about the exhaust timing

yup, it just makes the choke not work. the one with the brass bead goes on the choke side. the fmf silencers will make your mains 1 size bigger. that, and the air filter setup should put you around 240, or 250 mains, and try your airscrews @ 1.5 turns out. do you have something holding the filter in place, where it seals tward the carbs?

what kind of bulb did you use? too big of a bulb won't work. the e-brake wires are connected at the cluttch lever on the handle bars