AKheathen

tear your carbs down, one at a time, and clean them out real good. remove the emultion tube, and air jet. also, check the pilot and airscrew passages. sounds like a blocked air passage somewhere, making it suck strait fuel. did you compress the float springs when you measured?

def. and get a shocker grill. if anyone bitches about getting shocked, you can claim it's the warning label

thanx, i'm going flat black with the frame next winter. whatcha got in that sled?

damn, in automotive, i've used adapters that are tapered on one end, and strait on the other, so you can bolt them where the ball joint coes into the spindle, and slide the heim over the other end. lemmie see if i can get a pic.

stockkers will help get you tuned, and work ok on top too, but dual stage reeds will compliment your setup best. i usually see people trade between the 2 types regularly, but a rage cage or chariot cage would be the closest in value to vf3's. if you have the stockers, though, i would give them a shot, or even find some dual stage pedals for 40-60. and as stated, switch to premium. don't forget to retorque the head.

you should be running premium. only 50 cents more per tank. your reeds, and pipes are pretty much fighting each-other. not saying, that you can't make it work, but the reeds are a little stiff for good low end flow, and your pipes are mid-lows. and the carb size doesn't help the low end. maybey snoop, or someone else with alot of experience on 30's can help get you tunned close, and pick the right needles/jets. do you have the lid/snorkel installed?

what jets and airfilter setup are you running? your temp/elevation? what octane is premium at the pump? stock reeds?

did you do a leakdown? are you running stock timing? check the pickup on the flywheel. what fuel are you running? grey indicates detonation, or lead deposits

there's no aftermarket arms that uses heims on the spindles? i'm building arms, but i don't know what size adapter the s;pindles use before i start. i just want to have them built, or at least have all the parts before i rip it apart.

avoid cramming too much in small spaces, or you will end up with a go-cart track. the banshee wants to hit it hard and FAST

i just need the heim joints and adapters for the spindles. where do i look?

anyone have tricks, other than sanding, to bring my stainless pro-circut platnums back to normal. it's a bit more than the normall blueing, and so thin, i'm afraid to sand it, like i would thicker plate

the extra wire is for the park brake switch. yolu definately don't need it. just to make sure, the box has the coil, ground, run, and kill wires on said plug, right?

"right stuff"

heat the case, not the stud. the aluminum will expand long before the steel. if you can, compressed air on the top of the stud will keep it cooler as you heat the stud. never actually tried the wax trick..., but did have aluminum that required some quick acetelene- not recomending on your cases, though.

x2. they developed this product for a reason. almost anything else that will remove paint, short of sanding, will severely marr the plastic beyond repair, especially lacquer thinner. i've used reducer to remove uncured paint, or an incompatible enamel, and havn't tried the citrus strippers, but bumper stripper is the gauranteed trick.

haha, what's up milly- vanilly. man, you guys are harsh. just go down to the hardware store, and ask for the shit to clean pattio furniature. usually just use a pressure washer to remove, after soaking, maybey a little scrub with a rag.

sorry, if i'm abit off tonight. the captain has rosie palm hostage, untill i empty the bottles. damn, that seems dirty for some reason. gives private stock new meaning.

woah! red flag goin off! if you know what your doing, then you know that you are done before it has a chance to flow out. "maybey hit it one more time" only has a 5-10 min window on real paint jobs. that is a rattle can atitude. not to piss on your parade, but i just got finished painting my own shade of ultimate black, just hours ago. in direct sunlight, it looks like you are staring into a black hole, unlikew conventional blacks that brighten in direct sun. wet look, too boot. i hope you use a shitload of plastic adhesion promoter, and flex aditive. whenyou are done, let it cure, and run it through some serious shrubbery/trees. (enough to bend the fenders back) then take some high res pics. (unless you don't want us to see the flaking/cracks) your pricing is about the cost of good supplies to get the job done. what product are you using that can leave any proffit?. i'm sorry, but i used to have a shop, and really know what goes into doing a decent job, so i'd have to see the trial-tested product.

damn, i guess that really is all :mad: where's the sword fight?

broken ring land, just between the rings? check the chamfer on the front transfer. other than that, it could be deposits built up at one time, sucked water, failure to warm up before running hard, but not likely. i've seen some above the rings, but not just between the rings :shrug:

ut-oh! better get macco! have any use for some standard 22's to have re-cut

do your lights light up good while it's running? buy a stocker, if you can.

or, the red/black wire :biggrin: