AKheathen

$45 is a bit much for needles that aren't verry discriptive. i believ what you are looking for is more like some midrange reeds

check compression. you're supposed to retorque the head after a few heat cycles. you probably messed something sucking coolant, or overheating. what did the plugs look like?

just getting everyone's take on it. i kept trying #1, but still was a little high while riding. needles are good, and doesn't leak sitting, but now i do it differently. btw, if you vote #6, include which one you would've voted for plz. :biggrin:

ridding temp?

your mains do affect 90% of the range, so get those dialed in first, then go from there. running stock reeds?

you can get some pretty good info, just by scrolling to the bottom of the forum and doing a search, but your float needle(s) is leaking, because of sticky/ misadjusted floats, debris, or worn tips. only do one carb at a time.

i'd get an x-ring, but just look around, and pay attention to the tensil strength. if it's not listed, then it's too low. shoot for at least 7,000lbs. just my .02

yah, if you get a poor conection, it'll only hold back current, like when you're @ high rpm's. there's a chance it could be plug caps, but since you messed with the stator, the problem's most likely there.

the stator was removed from the plate, right?. i would check the connections in the wiring first, then pull the stator back off and clean/check all the ground pionts and flywheel. you used the banshee flywheel puller, right?

what wires is it attatched to? looks kindof like a rev box, but idk :shrug:

damn, just won't learn, hhuh? here's what you do- you do ride that thing, right?- get it really fuckin muddy while ridding it, pose it and take a pic at the right angle. it'll look bad as hell, no matter what it may really look like.

that's b.s. the lightswitch powerband comes from the pipes, with proper flow, of coarse. i'm not sayin that they are bad at all, in fact it will help with the right mixture rolling from the bottom on up by comphesating for the larger main than the stock needle was intended for. the toomy needles are fatter @ the tip, right? if you feel that you need to richen it a little from 1/2 to 7/8 or lean it from about 1/2 down, then they would be good. what are you looking for, as far as performance change?

is it a stutter up-to quarter throttle, or at quarter throttle. if the pilot is too big, you'll notice it right from idle, and your airscrews won't adjust up right. if it's @ 1/4 throttle, then it's in the needle. from the top hesitation, i would double check the mains, and play with the neeedles some more, and remember, the needle will seem to work good in 3 different spots, and you get it set for 1/8 throttle on up, then set the pilot.

i noticed putting heat to it melted it away. made a nice mess with my project.

"high test fuel"? what's that? reading this, first thing that comes to mind, is igniting in the exhaust. could be caused by running the wrong fuel or misfire, but since it's more than one bike, i'd suspect the fuel. you should only run 93 octane on stock timing and compression.

ooh, do tell. i missed that one. is there a link?

you guys suck. some banshees never see sand

it likes a fatter pilot

then do a poll :biggrin: it depends on what you are attatching it to.

does your meter have multiple places to put the wires? the black to common, and the red one to the v/ohm. touch the wires together and see of you get 0.00-0.05 ohms

i would go with a thucker head gasket

where are the cracks?

what........the hell... is that? interesting piece. stared at the sus. for a min. scuff it up good with grey scotch brite first, and concentrate on all the little crevises and edges. do 4-5 med-light coats-as per directions, then wetsand with 1000-1200, and buff shinny, after cured. the plastic might buff out without paint, though.

too bad, you'll probably need 300's or 290's, with 27.5 pilots

sounds like an airleak check the intakes, and choke tube. it's exibiting classic lean. check the compression, too