AKheathen

100km. do people from u.s. stll get away with "i thaught it was mph.."?

so, you got it up to about 65MPH? looks like the ridding out in the valley. lucky bastard. float problems? oh, hey. can you send me the link to the rick roll program?

last link of yours got me rick rolled, so i don't trust your links anymore :biggrin: gonna try to get footage this weekend

have you sprayed the wheel assembly down to see where the leak is coming from? could be a simple fix.

that's not more rick roll footage, is it savage? nice, rippen :thumbsup: you guys pretty much stay in midrange for that shit, huh? or is that just the audio in the clip?

did you re-gap the plugs for alky?

i beg to differ. mabey not that of a 4 stroke, but i'ts there

take some time and peruse the for sale section here. see if you can find a 4 mill kit, and get a 4 mill dune port. stock carbs 50-60 bucks or some nice ones for about 200, if you keep your eyes open. with the 4 mill, you'll be past the hard part, and will really be able to bolt on power later :thumbsup:

if it was jetted for winter, that is a good sign the prvious owner was on top of things enough not to harm it. if it's jetted for snowy conditions, then that is the problem, and it should smoke a bunch/foul plugs. rule of thumb is 1 main size per 25-30 degrees f. clean the carbs, and rejet for the temps. don't forget to rejet when it gets colder. no procrastinating on that part. when we mix leaner oil, it is for much larger jets. basically, when you step up pipes/filters, you're 1.5x stock jetting or greater, so you are actually getting a little more oil than stock jetting with richer oil mix. read up in the jetting section, and learn how to properly adjust your carbs. 32:1 is a confidently safe mixture, you just need a little tuning :thumbsup:

the ports need to have a chamfer to them, or they will chew up the rings

were the ports rechamfered? which direction did you install the ring bevel?

if they are similar to toomy or fmf stingers, then they will fit, and add a little improvement, but nothing like the different pipes oh, and you can use the stock rubber couplers

i've been seeing them for sale lately decent pricing

ok, first things first. service it. fresh gas/oil, gear oil, grease, clean the carbs, etc. now, take it out for a real test ride, and decide where you want to put the power, rpm wise. every mod should be geared for what you decide. they really don't make power if you interchange parts from different power ranges. now, get familiar with jetting by reading up on the pinned topics in the jetting section. it is a necessity, rather than a power mod. that being said, let's move on to the order of things- 1: pipes (rejet) these really wake it up more than anything else, bolt-on. 2: air filter setup (rejet) chose the one with just enough protection for the riding conditions. i.e. airbox w/o lid is common for trail and such, but pods are verry popular for mostly dry ridding, such as dunes/street/drag. there are many different options. 3: timing- plus 4 degrees via the timing plate will help bump the low and midrange, without hurting the topend, but be carefull about going more than that. an aftermarket cdi is another way to go, but a bit more costly. 4: reeds (recheck jetting) you can tweak the powerband a little with different reeds. i.e. if you run topend pipes, yoiu can run mid-top reeds to get a little mid and low back, but mid-low reeds will kill the powerband, and visa-versa. 5: tires 6: sprokets. the boost bottle really doesn't do anything, and hass a huge lliability for detramental airleaks. don't buy into reed spacers, either. there is a ton more things you can do, depending how far you want to build, and how deep your pockets are, but this should get you started just fine. oh, and welcome to the addiction

start by moving the deedles around and then playin with the airscrews untill you get it good enough to do a proper plug chop, after warming it up. remember, all adjustments are based on a hot engine. 270 is pretty close

no prob, man :thumbsup:

ok, you need to use idle screws and have slack in the cable.

i usually shut off the fuel and then load up. should run 20-30 seconds. is you're choke working right?

you mean i have to sign up for something else? no thanks. how else can i watch the vid?

NO! BAD HUMAN! DROP THE BOOST BOTTLE!! *SMACK*

the 260's sound about right, maybey 250's, but you'll have to go up a size if it dries out, and 2 sizes if you go to the open element. i did the uni pods on my rotax. sound awesome!

the reeds should have richened you up some already. about 1 size. do the chop first.

230 is actually pretty lean, even for 1600, and 90*. was it jetted for a snorkel/lid? that would make more sense. not much difference between open box, and pods, mabey 1/2 a main size, but people do +1 or leave the same on a case by case basis. i would pick up some 270, 260, and 250's for the temp differencees and start high. if you're not experienced in recognising how lean mains feel, you might not notice how much power you could be loosing and/or damage. to the pistons. leave the pilots. they are fine. just adjust the airscrews once in a while, for ambient condition changes.

cool. thanx for the follow up