AKheathen

if you are running pump gas, then you are good enough to do a plug chop to verify the mains. then work on the pilots if they are good. where do the airscrews want to run?

whoa buddy, backwards. sometimes -20 degrees is enough to bump you one size lean. go up 1 size and probably leave everything else, maybey 1/4-1/2 turn in on the airscrews. richer mains will richen the whole throttle range. it should have a lean bog when you start it, untill it warms up for a min or 2. humidity is a small factor, too. the more humid it gets, the richer it makes you and visa-versa

ok, it sounds like your choke is not working right. double check your slides. when they are in right, yolu will see the dots through the windows @ wot. the cable retainers are slotted on the bottom one side to allow air through the hole in the slide. check the choke jet. it's @ the bottom of one of the bowls through the hole that slips around the tube coming out of the chokeside carb, and looks like the pilot jet. if it runs good without a bog once it's @ operating temp, then that is normal. if it's all the time, and it keeps wanting to go richer, then your main or pilots may be off. try larger mains. if you pin it and it bogs, but picks up in a second or 2 while holding it, then it's a lean hesitation on the mains. i was actually jetting my procircuts last night, goin through the same thing, but it got too late to make noise. i guess pro-circuts are thirsty pipes. 300 and still lean, where 290 was just @ rich limit on my fmf's 15 degrees colder. if you get it running a little better, go do a proper plug chop to check the mains. the idle screws really wouldn't leak as they are before the sealing rear of the slide, and the locknuts would keep it sealed anyway. did you cut the nipple and file it flat? 1/8-1/4"

airleak, or stuck cable/slide

try moving you're needle and turn the airscrews in 1/2 turn. sounds like you are still lean somewhere how's wot? you go richer as it gets colder

check the reeds while you are in there, and sync the carbs when you are done. make sure the choke tube is good. once you are done, you can even out the exhaust pressure with the idle, then even the firing with the airscrews

you have to ground it on the dyna? why do they do it backwards?

what wires does it have? you have the e-brake wire grounded

are you using a lid on the airbox? snorkel?

haha, STEROIDS! I EAT THAT SHIT FOR BREAKFAST! no yellow, damn! what's the back look llike again?

ok, let me dispell a myth real quick. boiling/microwaving/filtering water is not the same as distilled/"denatured" water. period. the deistilling process is the same as making alchohol or fuel. it is evaporated, collected as a vapor, then returned into a liquid, leaving the minerals and chemicals behind. pure water. the other methods only kill biological content, but still leave the harmfull electrolytic and corrosive deposits commonly found in water. that beind said, i, prsonally am an advocate for dex-cool because of it's superior lubricity, and aditives. however, i wouldn't blink twice about recomending engine ice, or water wetter in any combonation. the bottom line is, that whatever you choose, make sure it is in good condition. every coolant will turn from good/great to a harmfull acid over time. 2-3 years on conventional, and 5-6 years on dex.

if it is a stroker, you would need some serious port height to get 125 in a healthy way, and it would be all topend. unless you are at 8000ft asl.

i would sell it too. no, second taught, i'd use it to make something decent, first

i believe they are similar to cut t3's, which would be easier to find, but, are you ported or stock?

don't forget the coke tube

haha, have you been on the trails? you aren't there to sight see on a banshee. all kind of trails, you pin it when you can. hill shots, climbing out of a hole, building momentum. 50% you want all the power now. and then some

do a plug chop, you may need 280 or 290's, and rejet when it gets 20-30 degrees colder

a=hem.....filter setup, not brand. like pods, box lid, snorkel. there is an elevation finder [pinned in the jetting section, and i'm sure you know the temp.

all i can think is to adjust your rear shock, longer swinger, launch different? oh, and you can measure the carb bore near the slide by trimming a toothpick till it just fits sideways, then measure

hmm...gotta figure out my top speed with 14/40, and 22/12/9's ballooning ...oh, and a billet dipstick :biggrin:

umm...the one for the seat is a little smaller than the choke, and definately not 1" there is a flat seal about that size, for the cap

should've done a search before you went through all that hard work. it's been covered. mabye sepll check, too. also, you can do alot more to a trail bike. i.e. 4 mill, mid-top pipes, as much width and length as you can get away with, advanced timing, coolhead, bigger carbs, serious port work, tranny mods, the list goes on.

those are stock cages with reeds that i don't recognize, and the black shit ts what's left of the paint in the ports. synthetic oils strip the paint

we need temp, elevation, filter setup, etc.

do you have a pic? there are many