dirtfreak

my comparison is i have a friend with a 02 warrior and i couldnt pull him and i have a 05 400ex with a 426 kit and pipe and it will kill the banshee. its a trail port pretty much just cleaned up not a lot of porting. im using NGK b8es plugs. thanks for the help and ill get the coil changed out this weekend. i would say you definitely have something wrong here,either of those quads should never be if front of the banshee unless your parked behind them.your comparison should be more like mine.i ride with a raptor 660 a yfz 450 and 2 400 ex's all the time and lets just say the yfz 450 is the fastest of the quads i ride with and i smoke him badly.if i was u i would address the problems b 4 i rode the banshee anymore cause i have a feeling you have more problems that meet the eye.im not sure whats wrong with your banshee but those quads you mentioned are two of the slowest quads out there in that cc category imo.hopefully you get it figured out soon cause when you do the hondas power will not satisfy you compared to your banshee.

i use one of those folding lever style bead breakers that i bought from jc whitney like 15 years ago.paid $30.00 for it new and still works as good as it did the day i bought it.doesnt require any hammering or beating at all,can bust the bead on a tire with one hand, very easy to use.i looked at the jc whitney site and they still sell them.lite enough to use it portable as well.

i torque my cases,head and clutch,every thing else is by feel.also when not using your torque wrench always when not using it, set it back to zero so there isn't tension on it when not being used,this way it wont have to be calibrated as often.

i was using motor oil changed to type f 2 years ago have had no clutch or trans issues.

yfz 450 all the way,i would never spend the money for the ktm.and yes the hondas are dependable but its hard to break parts if it doesnt make any power.i ride a friends yfz from time to time and the power is incredible right out of the box.rockin azz 4-stroke.a stock yfz will spank the livin shit out of a stock banshee,but when you modd a banshee its a completely different story.im guessing the brothers 450 honda beating the other brothers banshee means the banshee is stock or he wouldnt be beating him.

what fuel and what oil are you running and at what ratio.

mine 1 to 2 kicks cold and first kick every time hot.when did you last do a compression test.also have you ever performed a leak down test,both of these test cold tell you alot.i seen in you sig like 145pnds compression but didnt know if you have done a compression test lately.

does it start easy or hard to start .how many kicks cold and how many hot.

i looked for the dyno results i had seen for the shearer and cpi pipes cant find it.i am always looking and reading on many different sites though.looked but cant remember where i seen it.i do remember that the dyno was with shearer small flange and cpi in frames and the cpi's made a little more hp and a few hundred more rpm,s on a stock banshee motor.anyway i have no proof cant find it.i will say that while looking for it today it seems what i found is the shearer pipes produce more power.hell ya never know,either pipe is better than what i am running at the moment i would be happy with either one or both.

the coil is easy to change just takes a minute to see if its the problem or not,or get the ohm meter out and ohm test the coil/coils which ever.i would put the stock coil back on and loose the r/s coil if it was me any way.i just read a moment ago about your quad not rolling freely,may not be your problem but could definitely cut in to your power if dragging.check bearings calipers etc.also have you checked your reeds to see if the pedals are seated against the reed cages.carb sync.also put in the new plugs would be one less thing to diagnose.

I would no doubt take the pipes but I will leave the happy meals to you.

let me dig it up have to remember/find what site I seen it on.I was leaing towards shearer pipes and did some research when I found the dyno on both pipes and the cpi's made a few more horse power and also a few hundred more rpm than the shearer pipes.this is only what I read,I know there both great pipe choices and depending on the set up one could maybe be better than the other.let me find where I seen it and I will post it.

when i talked to jeff about porting my banshee he told me 35mm carbs.wonder why?

dude you have the rite pipe already.the cpi pipes dyno even a little more than the sheare pipes.the only way you will see more rpm is with some out of frame pipes.if you want to stay with in frames you have the pipes you need already.im running fmf pipes and am looking for cpi pipes now,have been just waiting for the right deal on them.

it seems like with the smaller pilots it would still run just wouldnt be jetted right.whats your spark look like.i would definitely try a coil get one off ebay for cheap.hell i keep 2 extras in my tool box its a good diagnostic tool.are you getting a good flow of fuel from your petcock to the carbs.it does seem if you have lack of fire to burn the fuel your plugs would be black.and if you had lack of fuel it would appear to be running lean.does the motor roll over at the kick start like it should/seem normal.does it idle.till i figured out what is wrong i dont think i would be trying to jerk wheelies,shouldnt have to.did it seem to run good b4 with the way its tuned and all the current parts you have on it.always try to get it to run good again b4 changing too may parts,could complicate things more.

i would do some cpi pipes will make you even faster,they rev more than toomey's.there next on my list.

sorry for the delay im listing my airbox along with some other banshee parts on ebay.if your interested in the airbox still let me know ,will give you the auction number ,pics will be posted there.

also squeeze the connector together a bit or replace the connector where it plugs on to the coil, so it doesnt fall of again.

2into1 set up would be good for mx track or tight trail riding,there known to make good low end and mid range power.i had a buddy that ran this set up,it had torque but wasnt very fast.

i would stay with the 2nd over piston size,stroker crank will give you the torque you need. then have the cylinders ported shee should haul ass then.

i got one in great shape,has a k&n filter w/outwear and billet proflo filter adaptor.also has the clamps and boots that attach to the back of the carbs.lid clips in good condition as well $50.00 shipped in your in the us.

heres ya some cheap stock carb new pod filters ebay auction number just type it into the search bar at ebay.130266705874 also i seen a good deal on some front wheel and tire combo yesterday but i think they where 4inch wide wheels new for like 169 dollars,if your interested in them i will look where i seen them and get back to you.

dude you put your motor back together and your thinking about taking it to the dealer for a carburetor problem.check your float levels,also if your still running the tors ebay has the tors removal kits i seen today for 38 dollars.take your carb bowls off blow carb cleaner and air through where the fuel lines go to the carbs,may have some old fuel built up in them,did your motor sit up for a while b 4 you put it back together.should be a simple fix.your pilot screws on the sides of the carbs should be between turn and a half to 2 turns out for a good starting point.

cool set up,with all the fabrication ahead with exhaust etc i would have went with a bigger cc engine,but it should work well.

for my temp gauge i just took a piece of aluminum round stock cut it down to 3/4" in a lathe at work then drilled a hole through it and attached a automotive temp gauge to it form oreillys.total cost was 16.99 the aluminum stock was laying around at the shop was free.