dirtfreak

try some new spark plugs.maybe one partially fouled that would explain why smoking out of one side more than the other till you run it and it cleans up the plug some.and i would do a compression check again see what kind of numbers you got.maybe even lean your mixture some will make plugs last longer plus add more power.plugs may or may not be you problem but would be a good start on your process of elimination to you problem.

from what im reading seems like he was saying used to run fine but now bogging in 6th.didnt hear about changing jetting.sounds to me like someone needs to do a compression test and go from there.also 13 tooth front sprocket and bogging,im running a 15 tooth and seems like i could pull a 16 tooth.i have no prob running out of gear looking for 7th gear with a 15 tooth

i lived there in garland for several years.where are some of the places you ride.i know of many places to ride in dfw area.not as many places there used to be though.

yea i meant lean don't know why i said rich,im getting up there in age and having brain farts more often i guess.i was wondering the heat range of the plugs you was running cause everyone wants a hot plug but when you start advancing timing and doing port work etc you want a colder plug and a higher octane fuel.i couldn't really tell much from your pic's need pic,s with more angles of the pistons and the other parts.the pistons do look like they were running lean though from what i could tell.did you have any metal flakes on your plugs.what color where your plugs when you pulled them.also did you have anything done to your head like milling or rechambering.how much compression did your motor have prior to exploding.im running 340 mains on stock carbs so i would say you was running lean 4 sure.when you bought your ported cylinders you didnt do any research on jetting?on you rod that broke i have seen b4 rods breaking from a crooked cylinder bore.i had a buddy that broke 2 rods until he figured out that he had a crooked bore from someone we both know that don't bore our cylinders anymore.

what oil have you been using,what spark plugs was your running/heat range also what did your spark plus look like.i would like to see some pic,s of your spark plugs.no doubt about running rich.but about running 32:1 mix i dont know? ive been running 40:1 for over 2 years on the same top end and still running strong so far and i ride allot more than most guys on here,i live in the country ride almost every day.where your rod is broke off near the piston to me would seem like a excessive heat while over reving issue.hard to tell from the pics.

plain and simple there's something out there for everyone.sure the more expensive swing arms are better.they are made of better materials means stronger.i am running an ebay +6 swinger and have had no problems what so ever and yes it has a 2 year warranty.they have excellent customer service have talked to them by phone a few times.the guy that actually is making them,who would be a better person to talk to about swing arm issues.they also have the round house cheap on ebay like 20 dollars more.imo bottom line is if you are going to make a bunch of horsepower like a 100hp+ spend the money on a quality built swing arm,or if your a budget guy like me with maybe 65 to 70 hp buy the ebay swing arm mine has held up with no issues.

fill me in on the sled trans.i was thinking of doing the conversion from sled to banshee frame,my sisters husband died and my sister gave me a 1976 harley and a ski doo fromula 3 600 with the 780 z motor in it.both have been sitting up but where both free.i am just trying to make use of them.my banshee is running great so im in no hurry.plus no telling when the banshee will explode time will tell.i was thinkng that the sled is heavier than the banshee and had a bigger engine,so if i installed the engine and trans from the sled why wouldnt it pull the wieght of the banshee.

the turbo hillbilly busa doesnt seem like too much of a turd.any many others i have seen on diff sites.im not knocking 2 cycles ive been a 2strock fan for many years.i used to ride the rd 350's and hi 500's h2 750s' back in the day have owned all of them the old gt370's i still have a rd 400 today that i have had since i was 18 and im about 43 today.so i am a long time 2 stroke guy.i used to ride 2 strokes back when they where the shit way b4 a 4 wheeler was thought of.until i was about 25 years old i didnt even like a street bike unless it was a 2 stroke.but times have changed.they quit making the monster kawasaki h2 750 because of emmissions they quit making the rds's because of emmissions.the rd engine is where the rz350lc motor came from,after they outlawed the street bike they started useing the engine in the banshee.now they quit making the banshee.so my point to all of this is you either need to start buying every 2 stroke ower plants you can lay your hands on or your going to be stuck with a 4 stroke under your ass remembering the good old days of a two stroke screamer.

Umm, how is it a one man bleeder if you need your buddy? are you gonna make him do the work? just trying to give you a hard time...I have also heard of crack the bleeder top off the brake fluid and hang something on your pedal overnight.... the purpose of the one man bleeder is to get the fluid in and air out QUICKER.

the one man bleeder is the best way to go.i have the mac tools one man bleeder works wonders.but i have changed a brake line when i didnt have my bleeder.and also b4 i had the one man bleeder.so you always don't have accesses to it.loosen your banjo just enough to get fluid by pumping the pedal,snug the banjo bolt.pump the pedal several times hold it relieve air from the bleeder repeat process till all the air is out of the system.some pump up quicker than others.i swear i have pumped on a few b4 for the better part of an hour till it pumped up.

then you have the guy's with there flywheels falling off while riding.talking about from one extreme to the other.most of the fly wheels i have dealt with have come off pretty easy but i have had my share of stubborn ones.if they don't come off easy i found that soaking them in a good penetrating fluid helps,and with the puller screwed all the way in and a couple karate chops it will be laying in the palm of your hand.usually the ones i had problems getting off had sheared flywheel keys and the flywheel spins on the crank blending the metals making them harder t o remove.

a lot of guy's that build the street bike motor quads are just wanting something different.not to say there faster or slower.there defiantly heavier,i rode a buddy's gs 750 quad wouldn't want it but it was different.when my motor blows and since they quit making banshee's im thinking of going the snow mobile motor route.going from site to site i think ive seen everything so far just about.did anyone see the turbo 2 cycle banshee motor,i cant remember what site i seen it on.i would like to see some one do a harley set up in one to see how it works,seems to do pretty well at the track,im not a harley fan but am curious to see one perform.

I've heard of both tracks but never been.i go to Paris track sometimes but mostly the Dallas area tracks.red line,7 points,denton,and kennedale track.i ride a gsxr drag bike or my chevy luv.my banshee isn't fast enough for the 1/8 when you got a bike that runs 5.20's you will have to check out red river sand drags,they got the pro tree right on the sand pretty cool.plus there's a good amount of sand to play in on the property.

dude that sux.didnt you have insurance.

there was also a gsxr 750 banshee on ebay a week or so ago looked sweet.the raptor would defiantly be the better way to go.but if you have a banshee and already have a street bike power plant i think that would be the way to go if that's what your wanting to do.also my self i would never spend the money that it requires to build a cheetah cub.b4 i did that i would get a doner snow mobile motor or wet bike motor that starts off at about a170-180hp.1100cc and then spray it and get 350 to 400 hp for about the same money.

hey guy rbracing 225.00 for both cylinders and 65.00 to shave and re chamber your head. jeffery riddle at sand master chassis 250.00 for both cylinders and about the same thing for the head work. either one is reasonable and do good work for the money.you will notice a big difference.for that money about a 15 to 20 hp increase.you can get alot more power for more money parts etc. but you was asking for cheap.anything cheaper than these prices it will probably run worse.

eat fewer sandwiches and push the throttle all the way.really if it was me and it was stock,i would do pipes jets and air filter.would be a good start.14 tooth front sprocket.hole shot in second gear.if your close now that should do it.there are many things you can do after that.what ever your pocket allows.

you put all new gaskets on could be the head gasket from running hot,not installed right,or a cracked head.

i knew there was more to this than just shaving a head.the heads i have had shaved in the past made little to no difference.the last one i had done i had it re chambered and there was a slight seat of the pants difference.deckheight how much can be taken off a stock head after rechambering it,not to be to thin to weld the aluminum plugs into it.and what would be the cc results.

0n stock heads 2guy-1 castings=24.20cc chamber volume. 2guy-2 castings=22.40cc. dont forget to add another .84cc to both for an OEM head gasket.looks like a stock head is around 23cc's.they make after market head gaskets with different thickness so you can also go up or down on compression that way.or if you shave off 2 much you can run a thicker gasket to lower your compression some what.i think i had .058 cut off mine but also had it rechambered,the squish thickness and angles.i know at .058 cant run pump gas. im running 110 octane fuel.i think its .040 or less to run 92 octane fuel.if i remeber correctly i think .020 milled off is either 19cc or 20cc cant remember.the first head i had cut was .020 and i think it works out to 19cc's maybe someone will jump in that knows more about it.i know theres some guy's on the site that know how to do the math on this.i have had several heads cut b4 and the last one i had done was rechambered and milled and that head made more of a difference than just having one milled,so i believe when you have one milled it changes the chamber/squish aswell.i also run a step colder plug.

depending on the type of riding you do, it might be worth your while to got wider and move them an inch forward since your going to build your own j arms you can do what ever you want.while your in the mist of things what bansh eman says makes perfect sense.

your 2 into 1 system is designed to produce torque and throttle response,good for corner to corner or tight trail riding.it makes power for low end and mid range.for open areas the twin carb set up is going to help you allot after dialing in the jetting and air flow.i was telling you in my last post to you drop to a 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket.it will let your motor see more rpms in 5th and 6th gear.will also accelerate quicker.if you have seen a stock set of cylinders you would know what to look for right off the bat to know if your cylinder have been ported,compare what your intake and exhaust ports look like,compared to the many ported cylinder pictures on this site.you'll see the difference.under search type in porting and you will come up with some pics on the site.are you still running your stock air box wit snorkel and lid.what are your main jets in your carbs.do the 14 tooth sprocket first easy to do and cheap 10 to 15 bucks that will help you some till you figure every thing else out.

red river sand drags they have a web site.its in fouke arkansas just out side of texarkana.they have trails and over a mile of sand bar to play on.they also have a sand drag strip with the trees/lights to start races. redriversanddrags.com check it out may see you out there sometime. theres also a place called wolfpen gap in arkansas to ride they also have a web site.there are some other places to ride as well if you want to know of them let me know.

arent the worrior ball joints and a arms the same thing as the banshee.i may be wrong but i think worrior swing arm axle foot pegs and alot of other worrior parts are the same as banshee.hiem joints would be perfect if you can whip somethin up to accept them.also some of the a arm makers out there use vw ball joints and they also mount right to the stock banshee spindle.thought i would give you another option.

if your gonna run the stock carbs and if you are already ported.intake boots carbs throttle cable and atleast some 310 mains or bigger.what gearing are you running.also what is you buddy riding.you ask if you should be beating him but you didnt say what he is riding.i would check to see if your timing is advanced either a adjustable plate or a off set fly wheel key.seems like with your mods and if your ported they would have done a timing advance.also who ported it and if and when they ported it did they do the head work with the porting makes a serious difference.what is your compression readings that could tell you alot.with your porting did they say run pump gas or race fuel.im running factory cylinders and factory head and am almost 15:1 compression on race gas with drag port.and then again you may be ported and 450r boy may have a long parts list.time will tell i guess.i would take the advice on the 2 carb set up you will have more on the big end.if you running a 14 tooth fornt sprocket try a 15 tooth.tall gearing is for stock if you have more hp than stock you should be able to pull gearing the other way.tall gear could be good 4 you in tight trails get the rpm quicker.