Tim Potteiger

I would strongly recommend replacing both without question. Since you smoked the crank, the repair is going to be costly as is, no since skimping to save a few hundred bucks and leaving a job half finished. I always replace everything on both sides, pistons, needles bearings, water jacket plugs, and every other moving part.

Yah, the dunes at Sahara were backward that weekend so the landing was 40 foot drop down the normal long and steep side of the dune. It was like a giant stepdown, really kick ass jump. Some guy was out there from Claremore, and he shot a ton of pics, but I lost most of them after he emailed them to me. To Wiseguy: In case no one said it, don't let off the throttle to shift, just lightly pull the clutch real quick (QUICK being key there) and bang the next gear, it will probably make a huge difference for you.

I run Works front and back, their service was great when getting them re-valved and re-sprung. My bike rides awesome for half the price of Elka and has been doing so for over 6 years trouble free (on the suspension that is).

I have been on Works Shocks for 6 or more years now, and after riding Elkas too, I am more fond of my works for recreational riding. Works don't have the ease of adjustment like Elka, but the ride on my bike is far better than the ride on my friends bike that has Elka. I will say this though, Works definitely doesn't valve or spring to dampen fast enough. I always tell them 20 lbs more than I weigh. My fronts have been back in 3 or 4 times for re-valve/re-spring. I am a big guy (as far as MX riding goes) at 5'10" 235lbs, and I primarily ride in the sand. I have started taking my bike out to the MX track some and playing around, and I found that my Works do just fine over the big jumps, without bottoming, that is provided you clear the jump. I even case a jump here and there and the shocks dampen pretty well. My fronts started as dual rate with non-adjustable reservoirs, and Works added a spring (making them triple rate) and put on their stiffest springs they stock to get me happy. I also had them change out the reservoirs to Compression adjustable which is a great idea in my opinion. If you are planning on racing, you might want to look into a set of PeP, Elka, or Custom Axis, but be ready to pay 2k for fronts and 1500 for the rear if you want fully adjustable shocks. If you just rec ride, I think Works are a great shock at a great value, you just need to know how to deal with them to get what you are after.

If you are running stock needles, 280 is too lean all the way through. You should be at least 290, and with no airbox most likely 300 or even 310. Do you have TORS still?

This is a real obvious one, but if they are stock carbs, when re-installing the slides, did you put the slide cut-aways to the rear?

I will see if I can get the actual dyno sheets and post a copy or link to download them later this week. I have a comparison of the FMF fatties vs CPI on the same setup motor. It's pretty interesting really. Some people attribute the dip to low intake velocity which seems like a reasonable explanation but who knows. The people that make the cylinders supposedly have never heard of the existence of this dip or low end flat spot. It really makes no difference for drag racing, but in trail riding, I would see it as an issue I couldn't deal with.

I have been getting detonation running 18cc domes and +4 timing, while running 111 octane fuel. It is also tuned too rich, but yet still doing it. It doesn't make sense to anyone I have talked to. I turned my timing down to +3 and switched out to B9ES also. It seems to have cured it, but then again I only have about 2 tanks of fuel so far through it. I can't imagine why that would detonate with no timing advance. I would say go to 20cc domes if he wants to run pump gas, or go to 18cc domes and run 111. My experience with CDIs is they work or they don't. I haven't seen an in between (I am not saying it doesn't exist, i just haven't seen it).

That is totally going to be up to you. If you go that high on timing, you will just have to change your fuel to 111. T5s with the timing bump would be a little less drag race oriented. I have seen a Cub with FMF fatties on it, interesting setup, it takes out the "dip" in power in the low end, but peaks at about 84 horse. You will need to recheck your air/fuel once you get new pipes on it. It might not change a ton, but it will most likely change. The best way in my opinion is to dyno it somewhere that has an air/fuel sniffer, so you can get it just right. Doing plug chop checks is an option too, but visible vs. measured with technology.

First of all, 2 strokes ARE supposed to smoke, they burn oil, period. As posted above, you do need to run a nice high grade synthetic at 40:1 not Havoline or whatever you can get at the convenient store.

My experience with the 421 Cub is that the best pipe is the CPI for all out horsepower numbers. They are not meant to run high compression, but they do like timing. You can go to +8 on a cub (111 fuel of course). They are fine at 150-165 lbs of compression. The only problem with CPIs on a Cub is the horrible dead spot in the low end. If you look at the power curve on a dyno, you will actually see a horsepower dip before it climbs out hard. CPIs on a +8 timing 421 Cub with 28mm PWKs will do about 93 horsepower. With your carbs, that might go up a bit more. The Cub is a drag motor though, so you will want some more swing arm. For just riding, I hate the Cub motor power curve. It is dead in the low end and pulls so hard on the power band it's scary for tight trails and such. If you are into MX, you definitely won't want CPIs.

I have bigger carbs a ported a motor, nothing too crazy and I can burn a tank of gas in 45 minutes of hard trail riding in the sand. 1-2 hours sounds pretty good to me.

As posted, don't waste your money on a boost bottle, I would be glad to give you mine so it can suck for you. Biggest waste of $150 I ever made. If you want to race, go Cheetah Cub, if you want to ride, get it ported and bump the timing.

The small hose that comes from the top of the head goes back up to the top tank on the radiator. If it is going into some type of electrical box, that could pose a problem to say the least..... Oh yeah, I thought the last production year for the Banshee was 2006 or 2007??? It's not just Cali either, because I remember seeing the last Banshee that K&N Yamaha in Tulsa, OK had on the showroom in 06 or 07 whichever it was.

Did you change the plug caps yet?

I feel somewhat like a pro on the issue since I have battled coolant issues on and off for a while now, so I will tell you the problems i have had. First of all did you retorque your head after heating it up and cooling it off? If its an after market O-ring head, you could have pinched an O-ring during install at the dome in which case you are literally pushing water with the compression and possibly getting water in the combustion chamber as well. If it is a stock head, you might need to check the gasket or possibly even replace it. The only other problem I could see would be the if the impeller broke or melted. I recently had this issue and the water was obviously just pouring out the puke hose from the cap. A nice way to see what is up with water (although it sounds pretty sure that it is overflowing) is to take the cap off and start the bike. If it immediately starts boiling over, it is probably the head, if it takes a minute or so then it is likely a circulation problem. Best of luck. I would like to hear what you find.

Riding wheelies will not affect the air/fuel since the charge is vaccum pulled, and the only overheat sensor on a banshee is when the water starts boiling out.

If those are Miknui stock carbs with FMF fatties I seem to recall running a 290 main on stock needles with the clip in the middle groove. Best bet is to use the K&N stage 3 jet kit after market needles with a 270 main. If you want to err on the safe side you could drop to 310 and check it or 300.

That picture resembles a needle going in a jet, but it is way too blurry to make out what you are asking.

Post a lot more info please, i.e. pipes, carbs, timing, motor, etc......

Looks identical to your pictures.

Talked to Pro Desing today, they sounded surprised and said send it back in and they would replace it no problem.

I think I am going back stock. Mine did this after about 3 to 4 hours of run time.

This time it might not be leaking in the head. Since the problem sounded like lack of circulation also, I checked the brand new pro design billet water impeller I installed last spring when this re-appeared. It snapped off the shaft. 10 years the stock one did just fine, 2 trips on this supposed billet upgrade, and it fails, go figure.

I had an ongoing issue with 1 cylinder not firing well for over a year. I chased every problem under the sun, and finally found it to be the spark plug caps. Trimmed the wires back a hair, put on some new ones, and problem solved. That little tidbit has since saved several of my friends hours of countless head against bench beatings that I went through. Yours could be something totally different, but I would start there.