donkeypuncher

they dont make roll design pegs or heel guards for banshee's anymore, havent for a while. you just gotta watch ebay, craigslist and here and hope you'll get lucky enough to find a set.

how come when you have a builder doing the work you throw in a cool head and v-force reeds? if you are gonna use a shaved head and boysen reeds in one scenario then you should use the same in the other. so how about: builder- shaved head, dune port, boysen reeds 60+hp and about $450-$500. your way- 55 hp and $120 plus a 4mill cranks so......$570? ( im not tryin to knock you for doin the work yourself, which i truthfully think is pretty cool. i just dont agree that this set up has all that great of a bang for buck. is it a more cost effective way to run a 4 mill crank? yes. does it provide a better bang for your buck? compared to another 4mill maybe, but compared to a ported stock stroke bike, no. personally i would rather send my cylinders off to have them ported correctly to run without a spacer plate and get 75+ hp then run a spacer plate then have a 4mill that has the same amount of hp (maybe less) as a stock stroke bike with ported cylinders. but maybe thats just me.

if using a spacer plate means you dont get the same amount of hp as you would without, i would think using your stock crank and a $300 port job would be a better bang for your buck then buying a 4 mill crank ($450 ish). a good port job should be able to get you around 60+ hp depending on other mods and type of port. maybe im wrong?

glad to be a part of the 1,000,000!! you can count on me beein around for # 2,000,000!

if your located in or around washington you might be able to pick this up.....vvv r1 banshee

having your stock head milled/shaved will be cheaper then buying a cool head. the only advantage of a cool head is the ability to change your dome size according to the desired octane fuel you want to run. of the three mods mentioned in the thread as far a bang for i would put them in this oreder: 1. adjustabe timing plate 2. mill stock head 3. aftermarket reeds

i would put an adjustable timing plate and having your stock head milled for higher compression ahead of buying new reeds.

i cant be the only person that doesnt understand this jibberish.

how long is your swing arm? you should be able to run faster times if you learn to take off in second gear.

do the stator's come with the flywheels? is the stator with the square plug a ricky stator and was it working before the wire was cut?

i thought about it when i saw your f/s thread but i dont really want to go back to stock style plastic. sorry bro.

TTT willing to sell. pm me your location and i'll let you know how much $ shipped.

a heavier spring can only go so far. i'd say your shock is going in need of a re-valve for the added weight and the longer swing arm.

lol, calm down mike. im pretty sure tyler is the OP of that thread.

lefty loosey righty tighty (counter clockwise to remove). are you holding the flywheel so it doesnt spin when you are trying to remove the nut? have you tried using pb blaster?

as previously mentioned, 20x10x10 hauler. the amount of paddles depends on whats done to your (or your husbands?) bike.

shoulda woulda coulda. in my book a loss is a loss and a win is a win. no need for excuses, they just make ya sound like a poorsport.

got any better pictures of the front shock reservoirs?

i dont know how anybody can honestly say they think drag pipes (cpi's) are the best all around pipe. i'd say t5's or fatty's are two of the better "all-around" pipes out there.

i got a hush kit and a 6 pack rack. i'll mock it up tomorrow and let you guys know if it will or wont fit.

note to self, dont buy any "polished" parts from bode1....

i think it looks pretty sick!

BUMP

powerballs SUCK ASS for polishing. good 'ole fashion elbow grease is the way to go with mothers polish.

does he carry hipers in every bolt pattern? the wheels arent actually for me, there gonna be a fathers day/birthday gift for my dad and he rides an ltr450.