donkeypuncher

havent sold or bought a whole lot off here but i figured i would set up a feedback thread for myself for past, present and future transactions.

sold my t-maxx. gave the guy the igniter but forgot to give him the charger. if anybody needs or wants it it's yours for the price of shipping.

for $300-$400 the biggest bang for your buck would be getting your cylinders ported. you could also have your stock head cut to increase compression a little. the main thing as already suggested is PRACTICE. because if you cant put the power to the ground properly then theres no point in having the power to begin with. good luck and take a video of the race!

whats with the duracell battery?

no lie, i was thinkin about puttin that on the back of my seat when i decide to pick one up from cascade.....minus the .com part...

from what i heard, with the exception of making custom motor mounts, its actually fairly easy to do the swap. i think you would be better off asking for help on a raptor forum though. thats just what i heard though soooo....

still interested in the black seat .............is it the stocker?.................

sorry bro, no hubs. but if you decide you want to trade please let me know before you make the trip because my wheels are still mounted on the tires so i would need time to have them unmounted. if you decide you want to trade, i'll throw in enough $ so you can pick up a set of hubs.

they're good if you ride a raptor 80. haha. i was hopin you would tell me they were a 21" tire.

what size are those sand stars?

i have a set of modquad billet clamps i'll sell you. i only ran them for one ride. heres a picture of the ones i have --- heres the specs on them ---- http://www.modquad.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=794&products_id=882 there yours for $30 shipped.

i completely forgot about this thread. lol now thats a jeep! how do you like those coopers? thats one clean tj meat! com'on guys, keep those jeeps comin!

it's ok man, you dont have to lie about the bike being your "girlfriends", we wont judge you........ haha, but seriously though, the bike looks good. i'd roll with it if i were a chick.

TTT i mainly just need the fronts....even if they're mounted on tires i'll still take them!

im pretty sure the rad shroud was silver and the rest of the plastic was white. i cant think of any year that might have came with a white rad. shroud.

show us your tits or GTFO!!! sorry, i couldnt resist. haha

he says he'll deliver it... that was pretty funny though! haha. but i think the craigslist ad you posted a while back about that SUV was probly the funniest one ive seen or read.

bump

whats the difference between buying a titled vin tube and a titled frame? if anything i would think just buying the vin tube, although cheaper, would be more work for somebody that stole a bike because of all the cutting, welding, painting and what not that goes into transplanting the tube on the original frame. buying a whole titled frame would only require you switch everything over to the new frame. besides, the majority of people that steal bikes end up either selling them or parting them out. exactly my thinking.

thats exactly what i was thinking while tryin to read it. haha so its true then, single carb setup is better than duals? and a boost bottle only works for dual carbs? sure wish i wouldnt have sold my boost bottle........it was a shiny one too! ...............

thats what gets me the most about ads like that. 'cause you know some poor goober off the streets that's new to the sport is gonna buy it thinkin it really does go that fast. but as said, if you're stupid enough to buy it then you deserve the dissapointment of finding out that it barely goes 70.....maybe 80mph. the worst is when the people that claim those speeds have been reached, truly believe it and wont let anybody tell them they're wrong.

the length of swing arm you run has no effect on what a-arms you run. the main reason people get wider a-arms is the same reason they get a wider axle, for stability. if you dont feel you need the extra width then running the stock arms is perfectly fine. p.s. snap some pics when you get your new suspension!

if you buy the shocks first then you will have to send them back to elka (or whoever you choose) to be re-valved when you pick up the longer arms to compensate for the added leverage the longer arms will have. same goes with the rear shock and swing arm. shocks and a-arms/swing arms kind of go hand in hand. if you get the wider arms before the aftermarket shocks then you will have to ride with the stock shocks that will ride worse then they did with the stock arms. if anything you can buy the shocks, have them valved for the wider arms and longer swing arm that you plan on buying and have a little bit stiffer of a ride untill you buy the a-arms and swinger.

the guys at elka can build the shocks to your needs. so if you buy extended a-arms then they will set up the shocks for extended a-arms. same goes for the swing arm. you dont really NEED a longer swing arm (or a-arms) to accomodate aftermarket shocks. a lot of guys that ride dunes, buy the elka dune edition shocks. if money isnt tight then elka would be a good choice, but dont overlook other brands such as custom axis, PEP, ohlins, etc.... if you are looking to save a little money then a set of works dual rates will be a great improvement over stock. when you buy the shocks just make sure they are valved for your weight and a-arm/swing arm length.