desertdeweller

might consider the fox floats. never used them myself but from what I understand they are lighter than the works because of no springs.

depending on your riding style they may work for you as is. If your doing big jumps they probably won`t because they will ride softer. I would bolt them on and give them a test ride at least before you pawn them off.

The videos really don`t do that hill justice

intermitent spark you said you got a new/rebuilt stator. I would ohm test that first if its not in spec take it back. If its a ricky stator your almost guarnteed thats the problem. But you may want to check all of your ground connections make sure they are good. any corrosion, powder coating, paint etc on your grounds could do it. Then after that you could also test your kill switches make sure they are not going bad.

man everyone is hurting right now it may take longer than usuall to sell stuff. If I had the cash I would get the cylinders, but I am about 425.00 short at the moment.

like mentioned above the floats might be stuck. Try tapping on the side of your bowls a few times with a hammer handle or something it will usually free them. Another thing is alky absorbs a lot of moisture from the air if it has been humid lately in your area it may have a lot of water in it.

sounds to me like you need to go bigger still on the pilot. you went down it got worse you went back to 50 it improved. the only other thing that would really cause the mixture screws to not adjust is plugged circuits. I kinda doubt both would be plugged though so I would jet it farther maybe jump up a couple of sizes

test your stator see if it is in spec might be starting to fail.

tuna tower is that what they call it these days

the radiator shroud is only held on with the 1 bolt with the big tank the bottom slides into the hood as usual. I havent had any problems with it coming loose I used mine for dunes and desert riding and racing. It can feel a little nose heavy at times but its easy to adjust to. The better capacity far out weighed any down falls for me

mine rubs on the stem cover wear your key would go if your still running that. Other than cutting the plastics I like mine it does add weight up front of course between the fuel and the tank. It is a bit wider than the stock plastics too. I think like clark ims offers a few different sizes now so you may not have to cut plastics, unless you want to go with the larger ones.

I live in arizona too I run 23" hole shot up front and 22" bandits in the rear. The bandits are a very heavy kevlar belted tire and will hurt power some. But I got tired of ruining rear holeshots in 2 or 3 rides or races. The bandits are far tougher than the hole shots and don`t wear near as bad. As far as the rear skid is concerned I don`t even run them any more. I got tired of replacing those too, seemed like they did more damage than anything. The stock crappy skid got tore off in less than an hour the first race I did and it got shoved through the side wall of the tire. The aluminum skids have done nothing but bend the tabs on the swinger and end up wrapped around the disk and sprocket. I do tag the disk on rocks pretty hard sometimes wear it will flare the disk some. I just take a file to it to remove the flared area I have not had to replace the disk yet. If your rear shock link tags the rocks a lot also watch the swinger I have cracked it a bunch of times even gusseting the crap out of it. The square tube that is welded in the center that the dog bone mounts to. It cracks around the outer edges of it.

you can buy just springs with stiffer rates.

I take paddles but not good ones. The cinders are pretty hard on them not to mention the roots can be hard on the wheels too. There are quite a few exposed tree roots that can damage a rim. If you want to climb the big hills like 100.00 hill you will need paddles. definately take old junky ones that you don`t care about. You can look up some cinder videos on youtube. look up cinders flagstaff and you should be able to find several videos of 100.00 hill the crater and others.

I tried to post them no luck though it said the pics were to big or something, I am not to computer savy.

How did it work for you? I have been waiting to hear results on those and the ricks stators. I bought my ricky stator to go with additional lights but it failed before I got them on. I have been waiting to do that since then.

I can try to post a pic of it mounted in there if you want to see it. If it will turn out good enough on my cell.

I don`t know if anyone has tried the moose ones yet. there is another company called ricks stator not the same as ricky stator. A couple of people said they were gonna try them don`t know if they ever did. You might be able to do a search and see if you get results about them

he should warranty it under a year.I think I would ask if he has fixed the problem with his stators before I would even waste the money on shipping it to him. A lot of people have had issues with them. I only had about 3 rides on mine when it failed but it was outside of the warranty date. I had been spending a lot of time on my other bike and didn`t ride that one enough. but it failed at the worst time in the middle of the dunes.

I had to do some moddifications but it wasn`t bad though and a whole lot cheaper than the aftermarket ones. It cost me about 35.00 in materials and an hour in time.I mounted took it out for the first practice in a desert race at first I didn`t think it was working. so I disconnected it went out did 1 lap pulled back in and hooked back up. I have used it ever since then it was on my old chassis for 4 years. I liked it enough to put it on my new frame too. The vw 1 is fairly long I welded a bracket on the lower frame between the front 2 motor mounts, below the exhaust head pipes. The cylinder portion mounts there. I haven`t had any problems with the exhaust overheating the cylinder either. I guess there is enough clearance and air flow down there to keep it cool. On the stering stem I welded a tab to it for the shaft end of the stabilizer. I am sure a clamp on one could be made if you wanted to go that route. I just used some scrap metal for the tabs. Its not adjustable like the aftermarket ones but it works good for me. It does take more effort to turn the bars compared to not having one. Like with anything else you get used to it.But with all the rocks in the trails out here it helps quite a bit

a lot of us have had problems with ricky stators junk that would be my first choice to check knowing the history with his banshee stators

if its at the top check your ball joints and your spindle. I have snapped 3 spindles so far its not a fun ride when that happens.

I had bought 1 a few years back lasted 3 rides had to be towed back from comp hill. I didn`t have my stocker with me basically blew the weekend. Never will I buy there products again. I would like to get a better stator for mine but have not heard of anyone that is any good yet. Thought about trying the moose stator to see if its any good.

I can`t still in pieces but it looks like a banshee with a big desert tank 23" tires front 22" rear to help clear rocks, +3 a arms full belly skid and a well hidden volkswagen steering stabilizer to reduce shock through the bars.

jetting, air leak