lt1bird

Thats really cool info. Now the pipes you tested, were they drag pipes or basic pipes? Thanks!

LOL, my bad... I did not see any place about engine size. For that size engine, the pipe looks good. Im surprized it did not spool. That thing is going to be nuts when all sorted out! Must be the pipe is still to big or the turbo still to big. Have folks tried to use two pipes with the turbos? Any reason why two pipes, feeding the turbo doesnt work good? just wondering why the single pipes seem so popular with the turbo's vs twin pipes....must be a reason...

Is that pipe off a snowmobile? What model? I think beacuse the chamber is so massive that the exhaust has a hard to pressurizing the system to spin the turbo. Maybe a smaller pipe would have been better???

Wondering if anyone has used small bore pipes on a big bore engine? Im just wondering how it ran? Ran out of steam up top? lacked max power acorss the whole rpm range? maybe someone who actually has done this can chime in. small bore being stockish 350, big bore being around 500cc... guess im wondering how much hp is lost due to too small of pipes. Thanks!

You using strieght cut gears with that tz bearing?

He said he was running two pipes and no expansion chambers? I guess thats interesting.... Lets think about this. The purpose of the chambers are to get a reverse supercharge effect from the chamber back into the cyl. This is usually about 5PSI. Without the chambers you loose the reverse charge...so what... if you have some back pressure in the small pipes going to the turbo inlet, that would allow you to force a bunch more air and fuel into the engine... build boost quicker.... Sounds real interesting. anyone ever see a setup like that??? Rememeber, all the old two strokes never had chambers.... Weedwackers etc.....dont have them. Im wondering how the port timing would need to be changed to make that work? The t25 is to large for a stock 350. You would want a 535 engine to make the t25 work. great project,Keep us posted! as i am working on the turbo as well. Im very interested in the chamberless piped turbo!!!!

Yes, I think thats a good idea...Ill contact a few guys to see what they are running. Thanks!

Still doing reaserch, for drag racing it looks very good. Aerochrager makes a self contained turbo... also a few other companies make some carbon sealed turbos... I need to find a big 2-1 pipe, maybe the snowmobile guys know someone who makes this type of big pipe. The two seprate pipes seems like a hassle to fab the stingers to a single outlet...Cracking etc. Ill keep you posted on what I find.

Yes, thats pretty much the drag bike that I have now!... but im building a new one.... less drag looking, more street looking sleeper but only for drag, no bodywork etc....using a vulcan 750 frame...looks like it was made for the banshee engine LOL... Im really tight on space. Im looking at a draw through turbo system...Not the best turbo design but should get the job done and acutally fit. Might have some off idle turbo lag but im not riding on the street. Im looking at the aerocharger, no oil feed needed. From the engine a 2-1 intake, to the turbo, then mount the s&s single carb under the seat. Should fit... just need to do a whole lot more reaserch! anyone have expernice with the draw through concept?

On a drag bike the room might be tough....for intercooler etc... Guess I could mount it in front and mount the radiator out back. Guess Ill have to do more reaserch on the turbo stuff. Ill check out cp as well...

Im really looking to make a very fun, fast bike. Its not a quad, its a street bike. I have a few of them. I want a high 8 second street bike via 2 cyl 2 stroke. Bike should weigh in at about 275lb. Im thinking I will need 150 plus hp to do it.

What about a big shot of nitrous. Whats the concensus on max nitrous shot for a 535? I have forged crank and matoon cases.

I was thinking of doing a turbo with the 535 but I really dont like the idea of the added weight, complexity etc. So the big engines do not last long?

I have not heard of them....DMX yes... where can I find more info?

I am about to build a big banshee engine. Ive got a bunch of 535 engines but need a whole lot more. What is the best engine for drag racing? Im looking to stick to 2 cyl... whats the largest going 2 cyl right now and about how much hp are they making? Whats the hot ticket....It will be getting nitrous as well... Thanks for any info or opinions you have to offer.

Figured it out....Put my bore scope up the exhuast port,,,, coolant was coming down from the power valve port. Looks like a bad casting in the thin area around the power valve/water jacket. Called trinity, they will send me a new one. Thank god for bore scopes I do have custom cut domes for proper squish angle Thanks for the help boyz!

I checked the head surface and the cyl surface when I was assembling it..they were fine. Yes, a little coolant got into the cyl as it ran down the wall and out the port....did not come down the piston....I dont think much if any coolant got into the lower end...any easy way to tell? The head is a trinity head with removable domes. You know, the only thing that was marginal might be the orings. The looked a bit odd as they were smushed a bit with some material squeezed out along the edge where the oring meets the cyl etc... Im wondering if something attached the orings... the outter ring looks fine, the two dome rings which do get compressed more look a bit smushed. Like flashing around the whole oring. I just put new orings on, gonna pull it off and see if it looks "flashed" now. If they do not, than Im going to have to go with something attached the dome orings where they meet the cyl... then ill try and see if it holds fluid again.

Ok ,got a 485 with power valves. New engine, I am real anal about assembly. Everything looks perfect...Went to fill the coolant and I saw some coolant dripping out the exhaust port right side. Wonderful! Took the head off, it all looks fine. How the hell could this leak? This is not even running yet! LOL, not like pressure is blowing past the oring, its leaking with no pressure so that means it must be pretty bad to do that. Now, the cyl oring looks fine, the dome looks good etc...It's a brand new engine... I dont see any major scratches on the dome surface....The domes stick down a little past the head surface...Guess I might assembly the head and make sure the domes sit flat just to make sure again...., again, with the orings im sure it would have to be pretty bad to leak. Guess im just venting and looking for anyone who might have had a similar thing happen... Thanks for the help!

I filled the deck with epoxy and then did a machine clean up pass on it. the reason for the .060 base gasket was to increase the quish to .050 from .030. I could do custom domes with a .039 gasket but I figured the thicker gasket gets me closer to the correct height for the port timing. I could drop the gasket a bit with a .039 and stack a .012 on top...Im machining some domes now so ill see what the squish ends up at with the new 12 degree squish angle... and 25cc domes to bump the compression up to 150PSI for 93 ocatane use... I agree, im thinking i rushed when I torqued the gasket the first time so it was sightly compressed more on one side( I was trying to figure out how to properly do the trinty cyl as its one compenent. Im thinking I should have started with the center bolts and worked outward in a criss cross pattern. I didnt do it as I was rushed LOL... Im sure after a heat cycle that gasket will get flater LOL

10% is what i saw in the manual as well.... im at about 4% so i guess thats fine in the grand scheam of things. thanks!

The squish from the left cyl to the right cyl is off a bit. Very wierd. one is .053 and the other is .050...... not sure its worth worrying about. I losened up the cyl bolts, retoqued the cyl with more torque on the .053 side first, then did the other side. That helped a bit but later I did another final torque and it went back to where it was. Im wondering if the .060" base gasket just has more play in it than a normal gasket... might be more sensitive to even torquing on all the cyl nuts.... I think I was hoping that after a few warm up cycles that the gasket would crush down more even. I put a dial indicator down the spark plug hole and measured the distance from the top of the dome to the piston top and both sided were dead nuts the same. kicking PSI in that larger squish cyl is also down a tad by 5psi due to the .003 diffrence.... whats the spec for PSI from cyl to cyl max diffrence? Thanks

Could be flatend out a bit...best to measure it with some calipers...

Guys, ive been posting about my 485 im building and lots of folks helping me out, thank you! ive got a simple poll for the trinity cheetah users... can you post what you have for a setup like the one below...Im interested to see what combo folks are running. If your not sure about all the items list as much as you can. Thanks a bunch, should be interesting 485 mild porting 150 PSI cold compression 27cc domes (stock trinity un-modifyed) .050 squish stock trinity semi dome pistons (not flat top) 93 ocatane gas elivation 800ft timing adavance 0

Ok, that all sounds good! Thanks!

Well, since the dome is tapered at an angle, depending on where you take the measurement depends on the reading. Im measuring in the center of the crushed solder... not on either end... kind of like the average. is this not correct? Should I be measureing someplace else on the solder like the very tip at the tightest piston/dome location? Thanks!