lt1bird

Use a rechrageable drill battery. 14V etc... has enough current to bang the noids open, will last a long time on one charge... I buy my kits here, great prices, great service... http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodlist.asp?idcategory=114

You mean use one ball bearing in each row? yup, looks like a big hole will be needed...

ok, i need to vent....this was supose to be a bolt on, no modifications. The instructions with the lockup say to grind the numbs on the inside of the cover, plus drill a 3.5" dia hole in the cover so the lockup will clear. If I grind just the nubs off inside(the three plastic side cover mount boss) will it clear or will I most deflinatly need to cut the hole or grind off the webing of the inside cover. What seal will I use to block the massive f-in hole? Also, how many ball bearings should I use? All of them? its a 485 pump motor with one step heavy clutch springs. Thanks for some info....

great minds think alike Now that im home, looking at the TZ bearing again. IT IS NOT held in place by the drive gear. The roller part of the bearing can still float. Im sure the oring and cases will hold the crank in place but I will still do the shim just in case. Thanks boys

The TZ bearing does have a grove for a clip. I guess what trinity said is that when the main gear is put on the crank it will lock it in postion using that one clip on the TZ bearing. Im going to add a spacer on the flywheel side to take up most of the gap just in case Trinity uses all orings on the bearings and no clips in the cases, say thats how they do all the new engines. Im using a clip just to be sure!

Ill call trinity and see what they say. Did you get rid of it beacuse you did not want to machine the cases? The crank cant go past the TZ bearing...ok on that side. im looking at simply putting a spacer on the flywheel side so the crank cank walk that direction either.

yes, that would seem like a good solution. PITA but would most definatly be the proper thing to do

OK, here is the picture of the crank in the proper position. A c clip in the TZ bearing for location and the crank pushed all the way againt the TZ bearing. See the gap that left over. If the bearing on the gear side was not a TZ style I would be ok with it, but the TZ bearing does not hold the crank in place, it floats. Something else needs to keep the crank in position. Am I counting on all the orings on the center bearings and the engine cases to hold the crank in place? That seems a bit sketchy.... I would probably put a shim in that gap so the crank will not walk over to that side causing the crank to be way out of center. anyone else using TZ bearing notice this? My TZ bearing (roller section) will pull right off the end of the crank, is that correct?

I can add the cir clip to the TZ bearing. This will keep the crank from walking to the primary gear side. There is noting that will keep the crank from wlaking to the flywheel side. This will cause the rods to be not centered in the bore. Do you think the bearing on the flywheel side is not pushed all the way onto the crank? Thats the only thing I see that would cause this.

I know about the orings replacing the pins for alighment.....I dont think they are meant to replace cir clips though. On the TZ bearing, there is no side load. Streight cut gears create not side load. Now, a TZ bearing with heli stock gears would be trouble.... with my setup, usin it as is, there would be nothing to keep the crank from moving side to side other than the case's sandwiching the bearings in place. Even a clip on the TZ bearing would only stop the crank from going to far toward the clutch side. It would still move that 1.5mm to the flyweel side. Not sure it could or would really happen......

I could do that. Put a clip on the TZ bearing and push the crank all the way to the TZ bearing side(everything lines up mice like that). There is a 1.5mm gap on the flywheel side bearing to case fitment. Maybe its not an issue to have this little gap on the flywheel side bearing? anyone else see this gap issue?

No, this crank does not have a clip on that side, just o-rings on all the bearings. The gear drive side has a TZ style bearing... with oring still...no clip

boys, im building a new motor. The crank seems to not be centered properly. If I push the flywheel side bearing all the way left, up against the case stop, the crank seems to be offset way to much to the flywheel side. See how close the crank is to the case on the right, then a big gap on the left. also see the center bearings are offset to the left to much. Now, is this a problem with the flyweel side bearing not pressed on enough or am I supose to simply center the crank by eye and hope the cases torqured together will hold the crank centered. Putting a gap on that flyweel side bearing does not seem cool. What keeps the crank from walking out of position? can someone let me know what the proper fix would be? Thanks again!

I wonder who makes them for trinity?

Wondering who else sells billet 4mm cranks? Thanks!

http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=174 kit jetting should be same... #12/#12 based on 5-6PSI See installation Instructions here>>>> http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/INSTRUCTIONS/NITROUS%20KIT%20DIRECT%20PORT%20BIKES.pdf

ya, that wheel at the end of the arm should be riding on the edge of the star, not the front face.

try 1/2 throttle while kicking, get ready to let off quick once it starts...

For a goof, try adjusting the cable at the clutch perch. Make it real tight so its going to move the clutch more than normal. Try that... Ive seen it happen when the clutch gets stuck a but from sitting. Did you change the oil? Start it, get it rolling and then put it in first...ride it a bit see if that helps. Try comming to a stop and see if the clutch is spinning free with clutch in...you know, not wanting to learch forward.....when reving with clutch in.

I think its normal for the water pump shaft to spin on the bearing... once the bearing catches up in speed it will spin the same speed but will lag at first. Its all a slip fit other wise you would need to press the water pump impeller into the water pump...Mine are all slip fit... Whats that about the platic melting in the bearing? Ive seen one before do that on a motor, where is that plastic come from? Did look like there was any white plastic inside the bearing like a varier etc.....

Ill call them on monday... thanks!

Ill probably just do the same as the 535 engine....but use the slingshot....with stock springs...CLutch pull seems fine...

Do you buy direct from them or dealers?

Thats what I was affraid of.... spending cash on the hydrauilc and the heavy springs still not holding.... I have heard bad things about the hydraulic clutch...Was hoping it was only a few folks here and there.. Where do you get the slingshot. I hear vito's has one too...Any diffrence between the two...quality or function wise?