T_Shee

just bought bar clamp with key hole for 13 bucks

personally i would think you would be ok mixing it. but if you do mix it i would listen real close for detonation. i had 172lbs and mixed 50 50 with no problems. maybe you should mix like 75 25 to be safe and work your way down. i dont wanna steer you wrong tho and cause you problems. that is just what i would do. if you can afford it i would run straight race gas and have no worries. is there anywhere you can get race gas from a pump? i would think it would have to be cheaper than that 5 gallon bucket

here is the best way to do it without a vacuum pump. fill reservoir with fluid, open one bleader, pull lever in one time and hold, close bleeder. do this about 15 times per side and it will work if you have no other problems. once you get a steady stream of fluid with no air you are good. obviously make sure you keep the reservoir full. you dont have to worry about putting the cover and rubber back on until your done

ill take the bumper. what is payment info?

no the coil shouldnt affect your timing. you are fine to run +4 on 91. wity your compression i would think you could run whatever timing you want. +4 should be about right for you. im assuming your elevation isnt extremely high.

actually most of the site sponsors have wiseco's cheaper than ebay. also vitos has some pretty nice pistons if your porting is stock. they are made by wiseco and have a lower spot where the exhaust port is. kinda like having jugs ported. little more expensive but i liked them when i used them

pm sent

tore it apart today. i have already ordered the shift pro kit from cascade, a shift drum with bearing pressed on from ebay, and i am gonna cut every other dog on trans gears. also gonna take crank to the machine shop i use and have it welded better. anything i should tell them other than tig weld with no filler? also i think i will use the 10 ball bearings from TDR on the crank

nice work tyler. keep us posted. side note. the fmf pipes will prolly give you more top speed usually around 120mph and the black curly pipes will give you 70 ft lbs of torque

they come on in the mid range and pull well into the higher rpm range. i have them in chrome and am very happy with them. i had dmc and toomey before and these rev out way better and come on about the same time. i would highly recommend them if you want your bike to pull. for anyone worried about trails. it all really depends on your motor setup. if its stock porting and you cant ride in the trails because of a mid to top pipe then you just cant ride. i have a dune ported 4 mil that i ride in some of the tightest trails you can imagine with no problems. them im also able to drag race it with friends. if you like your motor to stop pulling in the mid range then get a bottom end pipe but not as much fun imo

anyone have any other info on cutting dogs? is there any negatives of doing it?

cool thanks for the info.

thanks for the help guys. i need a new shift shaft anyway so i will call fast. his site says if you buy a shaft from him he will modify it for free. anyone have any details on cutting the dogs? seems like it would be something someone could do themselves if they knew which ones to cut. i will try some of the klotz oil also

have you called tdr to ask them about them. obviously you will get a slightly bias opinion but you may learn something about them

starting to get cold around here so i think our riding days are counting down for the year. i am going to pull my motor apart (agian) and do some things i been thinking i should do and would like some suggestions. 1. i bought new 4 mil long rod hot rods crank in august. i have heard the welds arent the best on them. we have a mig welder at our shop that im pretty good with and was wondering if this is something i can do myself. anything special i need to do or know if so? 2. what kind of bearing should i go back with? i see the tz max load bearings are 150+ for the 2 of them. i dont do a ton or drag racing mainly lots of trails and open field and some dunes. what bearings would be recommended? would i be better off to just buy the max load bearing for the clutch side then buy another type for stator side? 3. is there anything i can do to my trans to help it shift a little smoother? i already have modified star but i know there are other things (without buying over ride). i have heard about cutting dogs off and also saw where jeff has a modified shift shaft. mine shifts pretty good most of the time now occasionally a little hard betweeen 3 and 4 motor has been running great with basically no trouble since i put it together. j i just didnt take the time to do a couple things since it was the middle of summer and now i think i will. thanks for all the suggestions

x2. did mine when got back from little sahara and got 6 lbs for 20 min. the only time ive dropped psi i have had a leak that i could find. as tedd said make sure you have both covers off and spray soapy water around seals and case mating surfaces. as well as around base gaskets, intakes, and your leak down tester itself. any air coming out will cause it to bubble like a bitch. i woldnt run it personally because it would drive me crazy but that is your call

whats the new silencer design? whats the chances of a guy with the old design scoring some of these? these are really great pipes if you want some good top end power without loosing a bunch of bottom. chrome is holding up really well and pipes are extremely easy to put on and take off. sound awesome as well

ill get in line on the cylinders. let me know if too many toys doesnt end up wanting them

bump for a fast shipper and great seller

man im sorry but that was the longest sentence of bs i have ever heard.

good seller i have bought from him before

that is awesome. cant wait to see it!

i must have missed it, what was the air leak? ive had my timing plate come loose before as well

ill take the kicker. what is paypal info?