05.Banshee.SE

Dude someone lied to you. A Kenne Bell doesn't make that much power...now if you said a twin turbo terminator kit...

We have a lot of how to on here, you'll pick it up fast. And for trimming up...see the Roostin Room. We even have a how to on that. Boost Bottles are completely worthless performance wise, but can make good water bongs.

Oh, good deal, I didn't know they did that, I thought they just took your whole motor. Hell, that's even better. Thanks for the info, that's probably what I'll end up doing.

That is true though. Always run a quality chain...especially on these bikes. High RPMs and high MPHs...don't skimp out and get a chinese chain on Ebay.

I'd be afraid of the billet one transferring the force from the chain. At least the plastic one has a breaking point. I think most would agree.

I can pull mine out of my bike tomorrow for a pic if you want. The reeds should barely be held on, and the biggest difference will be in the height, not the width.

Yes, and get the plastic one, not the billet.

You should have no problem taking me with my current setup. You should be about 10psi higher on compression (even on me with a fresh rebuild), and your porting should allow you to pull hard on me. Her Juggz will be hooking it up though...6 months from now I'll be shooting the moon. Hopefully sooner. Fastrthnu - On the top end rebuild, you just send the jugs?

If you do get them, make sure you cut the notches off that held the stock airbox in...I got lazy and decided to wait, and they pretty much ruined my filters. There aren't any holes in them, but there will be over time. For now they are just indented and shit, and I need new ones... Sorry for making that so long, but seriously cut those notches out before you run them.

Alright. I should be back working this week, and I'll ship my jugs out to get 'em prettied back up for some new pistons and shit on the ASAP. I'll save my stroker plans for the summer when it gets wet out. I'll have everything squared away by then. How long have you been ported rajaa? I think you can take me now, fuck! I'm the slow one, lol.

Eh, no big deal. How long are you and fastrthnu going to be down? I could even sneak in a stock pistons rebuild for now, get it running how it was, and do my other stuff later. I'm going to have to start allocating more money for my upped plans now anyways, so it could be a while. If you guys are going to be heading out regularly, sometime soon, I'll try and sneak a quick rebuild in before I send her out. I could even wait even longer and do a Cheetah kit too. :biggrin: I'd be at least 2-3 weeks out anyways though, even on a stock pistons rebuild. I've had a shoulder injury for going on almost 3 weeks now too, so if I end up needing torn ligament surgery or something, it would be a no go... Could just be a torn muscle or something, in which case it should clear up sooner. Lmk how long you guys will both be down for though. If we can all get back riding together, then I'll push as hard as I can to get it at least running within spec, and I can save money for now and do my big plans later (getting all that done is probably a 4-5 months out). I haven't talked to Fastrthnu for a while, so I don't know where he stands with his bike.

Yeah, I was looking at all the options on his site. Seems a lot easier just wait longer, and pay him to do it all lol... Anyone know the shipping cost of a motor? (Roughly $100 or something isn't it?)

Posting what mods you have done and what riding you do would help. There is no "one fit all" for everybody. It's more application specific.

Yeah, that's why I'm not touching race gas. It's to expensive for me, I ride to much. But that high of a compression on that low of an octane could be asking for trouble... I'd just be a bit weary, and go down to 21ccs, it's not that expensive of a fix at all. My bike is done...I parked it until I get a rebuild in...and I think I'm just going to build it into a powerhouse. It's piston slapping, and I don't want it to blow up on me. That'd cost me even more to fix... Long rod + stroker + porting + carbs + rebuild + blah blah blah other shit, so I'm going to be down a lot longer than I expected. But when it's back...it's going to dominate, and be all fresh. I should probably write a will before I finish building it.

I bet someone has it and grinded numbers off, changed plastics and shit....man that sucks. I caught someone that was about to roll mine outta the bed of my truck into theirs. I bought the most solid chain I have ever seen, and now that shit gets locked and wrapped around my damn truck axle and through the frame and shit. Other than that, it's high security in my garage.

You should probably switch to 21cc domes, or run race gas...

Can this be run on the ported to match stock jugs with a Pro Design Head and domes? Does that mean I have to cut the domes more or something? If I run a 4mil, I have to cut it so it can go higher...and if you add in a longer rod, does it have to go even more? Or does is it strictly change the angle? EDIT- NVM, I see that the pistons accomadate the long rod. So the new pistons, plus the cutting means I can run the long rod and the stroker. Thanks.

Did you remove the brain box under the gas tank? (And disconnect all other hardware)

Sounds like I'll be going the same route. Thanks all.

Ah, I get it now. So I can stroke it, long rod it, or do both. I see now that the long rod won't be necessary unless I'm running some really high stuff! Since I'm planning on 93 octane, and keeping my domes down to 21s, I will not get the long rod. The long rod stroker/long rod/stroker thing was confusing me. I didn't realize you could do both, and in what instances they should be used. You guys are great, thanks much for your patience and help. :beer: In summary: - Don't run the long rod because I'll be on 93 pump w/ 21 domes. - Can you tell me what compression "cut off point" the long rod would become necessary (if there is one)? - If I want to go to a "big bore," I'm better off with a Cheetah kit. - Is the longer rods what makes guys have "10 mils" or "14 mils"? (Stroker + Longer Rod) - Make sure my engine builder raises the exhaust/intake ports to accomodate the +4mms. (Does this change what port option I get at all? Dune/Drag/Trail)

I probably would have gotten one back in the day if the HQ never enlightened me.

Yeah, I'd imagine it's going to choke the bike up a lot when you do put the air filter and box back on. Might as well just wait I guess.

I would imagine a) the long rod is better because of the less stress on the motor, and it's better to cut the domes instead of putting a spacer, and the spacer could create another a new place for an air leak? I think I actually heard that from you somewhere since I've been here. But then the long rod doesn't create power like the stroker does...? Why would someone want a long rod over a stroker? Sorry...this is why I never did any internal stuff like this, I just don't know it.

Lol, no. There is a permanent fix, but there's decent amount of detail involved. You can order a rebuild kit from Cascade Innovations, but it will come back over time... You can run YamaLube (make sure it's not outboard oil...), Klotz, Castor 927...there's a bunch. I like to mix it 32:1, that is 4 ounces of oil per every gallon of 93 octane. If you have compression checker, check the compression of each cylinder. Are the fluids new, or 6 years old?

You had the lid off of the airbox, or the entire airbox and filter off the bike? If it's just the carbs, then I'd say yes. It's flowing alot more air than it normally would. Running no airbox with "open carbs" would be similar to running pods. But even just the K&N pods choke the bike up compared to running no filters, just carbs.