Rodneya

Use a bit of high temp silicone on the joint and ditch the clamps

You need a load on the motor when testing WOT. Lifting the back end wont really do it. Letting the motor idle will only give a reading on the pilot jet, and you can check your pilot size with the airscrew. Jet your mains close, maybe what you think is a little rich, and take spare jets with you next time you go riding. It does not take long to do some WOT runs and adjust jetting at your riding spot.

I use the hones with the dingleberry balls on in. Nice description man :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

With the carb sitting upside-down on the bench with the float bowl off, measure the distance from the carb body gasket surface (WITHOUT the gasket in place) to the highest point on the black plastic floats (without putting any pressure on the floats). This measurement should be between 20mm and 22mm. If adjustment is necessary, gently bend the metal float bracket on each float to reach the right height. That's 20 to 21 mm not 0.21 mm. 20mm is about 3/4 inch

1 Word Google Do a search of the site and the web before making an ass of yourself in the future.

There was a post a while back of a member who does powdercoating with pics of his pipes. Looked great with a funky blue color. I think he mentioned that the pc gets a bit soft when the pipes are really hot. Looked really goo though. Depends what you ride. Lots of mud and dirt might be a problem

The sticker temp gauges look like what you get for a fish tank, and I don't think they will last or be very useful. Pretty difficult to check your temp while you are doing warp 9 down a trail. Same with a gauge in the rad cap. I am going to get a trailtech. Gives temp, rpm, speed and distance for a few bucks more than a plain temp gauge.

RZ topend Complete with ectrical. Looks like a good deal

Looks pretty rough, and it is over 20 years old. trying to convince a buyer the motor is newer will just sound like BS. the market does suck right now, and for something that had been hammered for over 20 years there will be very few people willing to buy when there are many newer machines out there for only a few hundred more. just keep it and enjoy it. a running banshee is worth more than a few dollars in your pocket. $900 will get you nowhere

Why would you bother to build a banshee cart when you can build a RZ cart with 20 more Hp for no extra mods

maybe it is what makes your boost bottle work

If you oil your filter too much, you will just smoke a lot for a while and the extra oil will end up in the bottom of your airbox. No problem. Run oil and an outerwear ( no oil on the outerwear) on you will be good.

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I have used copper head gaskets on high performance car engines, and they were straight installs with no annealing or anything. And they worked great to seal the heads. I did not know that they made copper gaskets for a banshee, but with a stock head you should have no issues. What do they want you to do to anneal it just heat it up until almost red and then let it cool. If you do that, try not to use a oxy acetylene torch as they can give too much heat, and clean it up after with a scotch brite pad. It is just a 15 min process to heat it up and let it cool to soften the copper.

I don't want to jack your thread, but once you have got the rust off what do you use to stop the rust coming back. In spots where it has rusted, the chrome is damaged and the rust tends to come back.

If your filters get wet you might be starving the motor when you hit the gas, but it will be able to idle. The idling for 15 min probably let the filters dry.

2.Remove the pilot jet (idle jet) and spray with carb cleaner. That's the air screw, not the pilot jet. try take the photos from further away and then crop them before posting. Blurred pics are a waste of time. Banshee jetting faq dbdragracing, Check out this link. There are some photos there that show all the parts of your carbs. And yes, the choke should stay out on its own.

Thanks guys. I will try it this weekend.

If you are running too rich it will splutter before the powerband and you will usually have to slip the clutch a bit to get it onto the pipe

I read a while back that you can remove white stress marks from blue plastics with a heat gun. Do you just heat it up until the white goes away, or is there a trick or two to getting it right.

My bad. 30 thou is 0.76mm. With a 65mm bore diameter 30 thou milled off = 2.5cc

Not all stock heads are the same. You need to measure the stock domes first. No point changing a 21cc stock head for 21cc coolhead domes. Rub some grease around the combustion chamber and place a piece of glass or clear perspex with a small hole through the center over the combustion chamber. The grease will seal the glass to the head. Use a pipette to fill the chamber up through the hole in the glass and the amount of water that it takes to fill the head will be the cc's of the combustion chamber. 1ml = 1cc Dont quote me on my calculations, but 30 thou mill will be about 0.25cc

You need to measure your bores in both directions at the top, middle and bottom with a bore measuring tool to check for diameter, out of round and taper of the bores. Measuring at the top and bottom really doesnt mean much. There is a section in the manual that explains the calculations and tolerances, but I dont have it with me right now. If you can see all the hone cross hatch marks you might get away with just a hone and chamfer and new pistons If you are worried about it, get a machine shop to measure it up for you with the correct tool. You definitely need to find out why you melted the piston and fix that when you rebuild

With spelling like that he may just be a member here on the HQ. Looks pretty familiar.

Checking the plugs after idling will always give a rich reading. Use your air screw settings to determine if your pilot jet is the right size. What size pilot jet do you have, and is your air filter clean.