Valin

Stock carrier? Post up a pic.

Guys, what swingarm length are you running on your 4mm cub motors? Most of my riding will be on gravel roads and sand pits, climing hills, etc.

Found this on ebay.......... cub cylinder, starting at $500, no bids, 4 days left, no reserve. For stock stroke motor. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ATV-BANSHEE-CYLINDER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439b08bbf7QQitemZ290363849719QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Looks like the old style pipes to me.

The new pipes and the old pipes are the same. The only difference in the new pipes is the stinger diameter size. Rocket built the new pipes with a smaller stinger diameter because nobody could get clamps to fit on the big stingers. The new style pipes would probably work better than the old style on a less modified motor. They hold a bit more back pressure, and a bit more heat in the engine.

I talked to the Rocket guys the other day about this. The newer style does have a smaller stinger diameter, but that is the only difference on the pipes. The new stingers are quite a bit smaller, and would work a bit better on the less aggressive motors than the old style pipes. Having smaller stingers, they will hold more heat in the engine, so you'd have to run less compression or less timing than you could get away with on the old style pipes, which isn't a big deal.

Are they the new style, or old style? (The way to tell is where the stinger tubes mount on the pipes. The old style they are flanged up in size, and have larger stinger tubes.) Get some pictures up.

Pictures......

Awesome post for sure! I sure would like to see how the rockets compare.....

These have been sold. I bought them.

Well, since nobody was willing to help me out with this, I ordered the parts from a 450 caliper. They are the same, so for those of you in the future who have the same issues, you can run the 450 pins and rubbers.

a bit pricey. I just had everything on the bike powdercoated, except the front arms for $290, and the job was excellent. swinger brake, sprocket, and wheel hubs carrier cases motor mounts pegs spindles skid plate

All of that hp talk put aside....the Vito's pistons have a much thicker skirt, making them much more durable. The standard Wiseco skirts are too thin, and don't hold up to the abuse.

not enough.....

If the motor is stock, run pump fuel. The only reason to increase octane is to prevent detonation.

Will you not ship to Canada? Your ad says you don't, and I am interested in a set.

nobody knows this? Come on guys, help a brotha out....

Guys, my floating caliper pins on the rear caliper on my shee are seized. I pulled them out, and the larger pin with the hex head on it is unsalvageable. Will the pins and rubber seals out of a 450 work? They look identical to the ones I need in the microfiche, but when you pull the banshee microfiche, it does not show these parts. *NOTE.........I am not talking about the pins for the pads.......I am talking about the pins (that mount to the bracket) that allow the caliper to float and center itself. Anybody know?

What size are the intake manifolds?

Thanks q-ball. I just want to get rid of this stuff. I will entertain some possible trades...

Subs: 9/10 cosmetically, 10/10 function. $350 each + shipping 2 Digital Designs 9515's with F motors, dual 1.8 ohm, newly reconed....very tight and in excellent condition. Amps: 1-Memphis Mojo 4KW - 9/10 cosmetically, 10/10 function - $500 + shipping 1-Memphis MCA3004 Class (75x4) - 8-9/10 cosmetically, 10/10 function. $200 + shipping 1-Memphis MCA2004 Class (50x4) - 6/10 cosmetcially, 10/10 function (has a cracked end cap mount, but can be repaired. The body of the amp is in great shape.......just the cap is cracked. $150 + shipping Batteries: $250 each + shipping Two Kinetik HC2400's. These were modded to an 8 volt and 4 volt section to run them as a 16V setup using 4 batteries. I purchased them this summer, and never got around to running them. PM me.

Do you have a regular or extended cab truck? If you have an ext. cab truck, and want a big system I can hook you up with the gear you need, and there will be no upgrading afterwards. Here's what I am getting rid of: 2 Digital Designs 9515 (15") subs 1 Memphis Mojo 4KW amplifier (4000 watts) 1 Memphis MCA3004 amplifier (75 watts x 4) 1 Memphis MCA2004 amplifier (50 watts x 4) 2 Kinetic HC2400 batteries Enough 2/0 awg wire, digital fuse blocks, distro blocks, etc. 4 PSP 6" Aeroports, uncut I am getting out of car audio, so I just want this stuff gone. The box is 8.5 cubes after displacement, tuned at 38hz, and spl is in the 150's.

Is your car an auto or manual? Our intercooler design sucks for running different turbos. TMIC's give is a very limited selection. You cannot just bolt on an STI turbo and change the piping if you want to run a top mount, unless you have a custom intercooler built. You can run an STI turbo, sti intercooler, and STI intake manifold though, but it's alot of work. It would be better to invest in a FMIC and then your options are limitless. 1- Your first step would be to purchase a tuner. I run an AccessPort on my '08 WRX, which has the same motor as yours. It works fine. The Cobb maps aren't the best, but they do have some good gains.....nothing like having it pro tuned though. With just the AP, you can bump it to stage 1. 2- Next would be to purchase a turbo back exhaust. Then you can bump it to stage 2. I run an Invidia Catted DP on mine, with a Borla catback, and it's damn loud. I am going to install a few venturi's into my exhaust to cut back on the noise. 3a- You then have to decide how much further you want to go. If you only want a bit more, and will be happy with roughly 280hp, 330 ft. lbs., then all you have to do is bolt on a VF52 turbo from a 2009 WRX. That will give you alot more top end power than our tiny TD04 turbo's. 3b- If you want more power than that in the future, then your third step would be to invest in a FMIC, then you can run any turbo setup you want to. 4- Then, you're looking at which turbo would suit your needs for driving (faster spool + less top end, or huge power and less spool). I say bolt on a GT35R and be done with it. This will require you to run larger injectors, and possibly upgrade your fuel pump to a Walbro. You'd probably be sitting around 400-450 whp with this setup on pump fuel, and your tranny will probably die a horrible death unless you upgrade that as well.

Your floats are sticking. Your motor is probably horribly flooded. Did you remove the floats? Did you clean out the needle/seat? Take apart your carbs again. Make sure the needle slides in and out of the seat nicely when you move the floats up and down. You probably have some dirt in there.