Valin

Pics of the golf cart please....

Sold.

Sold, pending payment.

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I won't have the motor finished for this season, so it's now or never.....

I have a set of T5's that I had purchased off of another member on here. They are perfect, with basically no time on them at all. I have not run these pipes. I am only selling them to go with a different set of pipes. I have $375 into them, after bringing them over the border, plus $80 for billet pipe clamps, which I will throw in. I would like to get $375 plus shipping for everything. I can possibly have them shipped from Michigan to save on cost. Pics:

Damn I wish I had some dyno graphs to go off of. It would be nice to see the T5's on the dyno, then just swap out the rockets to see the diff. There's a set posted on craiglist, and I've been in touch with the guy who'll let them go for $400 shipped...........and they look mint.

The riding is all over the place. Trail, pit climbing, and drags.

I am considering selling the T5's that I just purchased (haven't even run them yet) to pick up a set of Rocket Pipes. I'll keep the T5's if they will work well on this motor. If the rockets will work better, I'll run them. Here's the specs: 4mm Hotrods longrod stroker stock ported jugs, boosters, triple exhaust ports coolhead with 21's v-force delta 3's 33mm Mikuni Flatslides on filters What do you guys think?

Yes, the bore and stroke are usually listed in mm, but you need to convert them to centimeters if you are dealing with cc's for heads. I'm sure nobody wants to deal with cubic millimeters when measuring head volume. The units for head volume are in CC's, which is mentioned above. 1ml is equal to 1cc in volume. The syringes will be listed in ml, so, put in 20ml, that is equal to 20cc. This is uncorrected compression ratio, which is also known as Swept CR. Corrected or Trapped CR is more accurate, yes, but most ppl and tuners go by Uncorrected, for whatever reason. Corrected is just as simple to calculate. Instead of using the entire stroke of the motor, you are calculating the volume trapped when the ports are closed. So, the stroke that you would enter is the distance from the top of the exhaust port to the deck of the cylinder.

Thanks Chris. I tried to make it as understanding as possible.

Compression ratio is a calculation based on bore/stroke, and volume of the cylinder head. The head volume must be measured on the motor, with the piston at TDC. For those of you who don't know, here's how you would do it: -Get yourself some 10cc syringes (without the needle). -Get yourself a small piece of hose (6" is fine) that you can attach to the nipple on the syringe. You will use this hose later on to suck the oil back out of the cylinder before you pull off the head to clean it thoroughly. -You are going to need some oil. Injector oil is fine......whatever you've got. -Ensure your cylinders are sitting level. You might have to jack up the front of somehow to ensure this. If it is on an angle, you won't get a true head volume. -Choose a cylinder to measure. -Remove the spark plug. -Bring the piston to TDC. I use a caliper and measure down inside the spark plug hole and bring it up until it is at the highest point. -Fill the head up with oil, keeping track of how many cc's you put in there (1 ml = 1cc) . You will stop filling when you get to the bottom of the spark plug hole. -Write this number down. You are going to end up with a volume in the 17-23cc range. -Put the hose on the end of the nipple on the syringe, and suck out as much oil as you can. -You are then going to lower that piston in the cylinder roughly 10mm. Do this again with something to measure through the spark plug hole. We lower the piston so that the remaining oil does not go into the water jacket, which it will do if you leave your piston at TDC and remove the head. -Remove the cylinder head, and clean up the remaining oil. -Repeat the procedure again to ensure you got the correct volume the first time. Then, it's just mathematics........... Here's the forula [(0.7854*(bore^2)*stroke) + Head Displacement] / Head Displacement Bore = cylinder bore diameter (in centimeters) Stroke = stroke (in centimeters) The number you receive will be your compression ratio in (your number):1.

Cranking compression has nothing to do with the amount of octane you require to run to prevent detonation. Compression ratio is the only thing you need to consider.

Why again are you running race fuel? If you do not require race fuel, then do not run race fuel. It will richen up your mixture quite a bit, and you won't fully burn it. The only reason to run higher octane race fuel is to prevent detonation in your motor from heat. There are 3 things that cause heat in your motor, resulting in detonation........compression, timing, and stinger diameter. Those pipes will not cause your motor to detonate. +4 timing is not too much timing, so unless you're running a huge compression ratio, get rid of it. Tune the bike on the fuel you are going to run. Most people always think that just running race fuel will make them build more power. That is total BS.

Yea, i'm running stock rims on mine. I'll look into picking up some yfz spindles.

I have my front end put together now on my shee, with the YFZ arms, YFZ Elka Duner shocks, and stock banshee spindles. I do not have the steering arms on the bike yet, but I find that the spindles are fairly hard to turn from side to side with just my hands. It seems like there is alot of stress on the balljoints. Does this happen when running the Banshee spindles with the YFZ arms? If so, I'm thinking about getting the YFZ spindles if it will fix this.

Well, there's certainly compression there if it runs. Mind you, I'm surprised it would even run with no exhaust on it.

This doesn't make any sense. Even if your rings were finished, it would register some compression. It is damn near impossible to register 0. Even with no rings installed it would probably still register compression. I've seen pistons with holes burned in the center of them still register like 40 psi. If the reeds were stuck closed (which I have never seen), it would still have compression. There is still air on top of the piston that gets compressed when the ports are closed. So, unless your pistons aren't moving, you are going to have some compression. Does it feel like there is any compression when you kick it? Get a new gauge.

I am not sure on a cub motor, since I have never worked on one, but you can either try to use a crows foot, and if that doesn't work, just use a wrench. I have to use a wrench to tighten the base bolts on my 280hp sled motor. Human torque wrench!.......It's no big deal.

If you can find someone to PC everything for $400, take it. I've called a few places before in Ontario and they wanted about $250 to do the just the frame. Fireball Coatings does the best work I've seen in Ontario, but they are very expensive. I now have a local guy up here in Sudbury doing my work, and he is MUCH cheaper, and does decent work.

Guys, I am currently working on a project bike, but I am also going to be picking up an additional swingarm to set the bike up for 500' drags off of a clay starting line. At these races, we will be allowed to run chisels in the tires, so the bike is going to leave hard. What length of swingarm should I throw on it to leave flat? 10"? 12"? I will also be lowering the bike. Setup specs: 4mm longrod stroker stock cylinders, booster intakes, triple exhaust ports, dune port (roughly) Toomey T5's Coolhead with probably 18cc domes? (going to run VP C14 race fuel) - I'll figure that out later.... V-Force Delta 3's 33mm Mikuni TM Flatslides (From a yamaha SRX700 snowmobile, modified spacing to work on the shee) K&N Filters What do you guys think?

I am about to throw my longrod 4mm motor together in the near future, and am wondering about what squish height should be run for a pump fuel setup. I'll be running a ProDesign coolhead with 21cc domes. I've looked a bit on this site, and it looks like alot of people are in the 35 thou range, which seems excessively tight for a pump fuel application. This is my first Banshee build. I have never built a motor this tiny, and on my other motors i'm in the 60 thou range.......

Doesn't matter anymore. I just ordered another kit direct from AlloyBoltz.

The service manual shows thread sizes, and torque specs. It does not show the number of bolts, or the lengths of them.

I need a list of all of the bolts on our Banshee's. I am doing a ground up rebuild, and purchased a stainless kit on ebay, then got screwed by the guy by not sending it. Now I am boltless, and need a list so I can piece one together by myself. Any help would be appreciated.