Valin

I thought I would. I had someone trying to tell me that they are too big, that I'd lose a ton of throttle response, and the tiny motor wouldn't draw enough fuel properly through them. The flatslides have to be a big gain over those puny 26's, even being 33's, and I have never had an issue pulling fuel through a bigger carb.

Guys, will my 33mm Mikuni flatslides be too big on a dune/drag ported stock stroke shee, running T5's, 21cc domes, filters, and +4 timing? If so, what about on a 4mm motor?

Here you go.... 1,025 shipped ported by hjr 1 ride on them, crank, block, and pistons. nikasil is mint. swinger+ 6 carrier, sliders and chain 400 lockup assembly 300 billet basket, complete, new fibers,steels, and pancake 150 fast noss head complete,18cc domes 140 shipped.

I'll take the manifolds if that deal fell through. PM me.

That's odd. I didn't receive it.

I need the following: - A coolhead for my new project bike, with or without 21cc domes - A stock radiator in good shape. - A stock thumb throttle assembly. - A nice rear grab bar......stock or aftermarket - Black ASV levers I am also looking for chrome or billet pieces........front bumper, kick starter, stator cover, water pump cover, front end parts, brake and sprocket hubs, etc..... PM me with what you have.

Should the kick starter shaft have any play in it? I just picked up a project bike, and the shaft moves in and out about 1/4" Should it be tight?

Yea, I used the center and the mag because I wanted to keep the choke system. I have not turned the fuel spigots up yet, but I have done it in the past. It's a royal pain in the ass. You do have to heat the hell out of them, and 1/2 the time you end up breaking them, drilling them out, and installing new ones. Haha, I don't mess around! Besides, I'm on a labour strike at work, so I have nothing better to do. We'll see about the feed. I'll try it gravity, if it doesn't work, i'll run a pump. I have about 10 Yamaha srx700 pumps kicking around, so I'll just use one of them. The motor has to come apart anyways because they're play in the kick starter shaft, so when it's apart, i'll throw in a pulse output. But I'm faster

Hey guys. I had a pile of stock Yamaha SRX700 carbs laying around, so I decided to pull the rack apart, shorten it to 4" CC distance, and throw it back together to run in my upcoming shee project. It took me about an hour to do I guess. I decided to keep the factory throttle and choke system. I used the stock carb rack brackets, just had to cut and modify them a bit for the 4" spacing. I had to cut the main throttle rod down to accomodate the narrower Center to Center distance, and drill and tap a new hole in it for the slide. I also cut down the choke rod, and drilled a shallow groove in it for the bolts to sit into. It turned out great, and looks factory, IMO. All I have to do now is turn the fuel intake spigots up, run some new vent line, and they're ready. Here's some pics.

I wouldn't think that you would have to adjust the float bowls when going gravity from a fuel pump. I will have to spin the fuel spigots around, since they are pointing down at the moment. I am also going to have to shorten the carb spacing a bit, which is no big deal whatsoever. I think the 33mm flatslides should work great. Well, i'm going to try it anyways.

Mine.

PM sent.

What are the CDI and coils? What is stripped out of the wiring?

gotcha.

I just went out to measure, and we're about 4.75" for CC spacing on the carbs. It's still doable, just requires some mods.

Wow. 24.3cc's and 10.9 CR after cutting 30 thou. That's rediculous. As far as having to run fuel pumps, that might not be necessary since it looks like there are members on here running 34's and bigger off gravity feed. We'd have to turn the fuel inlet spigots upwards, but not a big deal. Then again, running a pulse line for a fuel pump into the crankcase is very easy to do also. If you ever need any info or help with the sled, let me know.

Thanks alot Mopar. That info is very useful. 10.9:1 is too damn safe Yes, I have far too many sets of SRX carbs laying around. I think i'll have to do it.

The shee is a '97. Don't worry about running the numbers on the TSR. Corrected is just fine, and thanks. Would you also happen to know the carb center to center spacing? I'd like to slap a rack of 33 flatslides on there, if there are any with close CC spacing.

Deleting the cookies worked. Thanks!

Full stroke, uncorrected CR willl do. I'll delete the cookies and give it a whirl. Thanks for the tip!

Haha, I am everywhere! I am just in the process of picking up a Shee.....I'll have it next week. I haven't had one since 2004. This one is a ground up resto. I'm getting the entire bike for $600, and everything is nice and straight. It's all stock, but won't be for long, as i'm sure you could imagine. I haven't decided yet if i'm going to go with cub cylinders, or just port the stock jugs. It will have a 4mm crank, coolhead, timing, and t-5's. It won't be anything too crazy, since it's going to be on pump fuel. I am only asking what the stock head displacement is just for knowledge sake. I am guessing it's in the 22-23 cc range. I would have just measured it, but I don't have the bike yet I kinda figured 21cc domes would be the better choice. What is the ratio with 21's?

Guys, I am about to start a ground up build on a Shee that I just picked up. I haven't owned a shee for quite a few years, so I'm a bit out of the game when it comes to tires. I am looking for a tire that is good on hard packed gravel roads, and relatively fine sand for climbing in gravel pits, etc. What do you guys recommend?

Guys, what size are the domes on a stock shee head? I've been searching, but I cannot find the answer. Also, would 20cc domes be too small on a shee on 91 octane, with +4 timing at 1000 feet elevation, or would 21's be better? Thanks for the help.