ban99

Here is my current set-up. mild dune port, trued and welded crank, stock carbs, +4 timing, t-5's, v-force 3 reeds. I came into some parts and need to know if they will integrate smoothly with my set-up. The first is a pro design cool head with 18cc domes (looking to trade to 20cc). Second is a set of 33 or 35 keihn pwk's with pods. The cool head i'm not so concerned about but not sure if the carbs are overkill. Thanks

Just received my parts from victor and they were just as described. Good price and super fast shipping. I wouldn't hesitate to business again. Thanks again Victor.

Here is anouther supplier for leds's. http://customdynamics.com/

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Got my parts and they were just as described. Couldn't have asked for a better price and the shipping was amazingly fast. Thanks again Tony.

One way is to plug one end and hook an air line up to the other end and heat the dent up to cherry red with about 40-60lbs. of air maybe more depending on the gauge of steel. Also heard of people filling them with water, plugging both ends and freezing the pipe. Takes a few times from what I have heard. Last is to mark the pipe for proper re-alignment then cut it open, hammer out the dents and re-weld together. This would probably be the trickiest to get right.

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you should quit drinking now.

I ship mine back and forth from Den. to Phx. for dune season each year so I built a reusable crate. The floor of it is basically an oversized pallet then i made a steel frame from 3/4" sq. tubing and skinned it with luan so it is fully boxed in and light weight. I ship it via fedex freight and usually costs me about $250 one way. Best part is I can fit all my gear in it so all i have to do is fly and ride.

Nitrotate to the rescue---good tech video

"call 911" printed upsidedown "McLovin" -- my new favorite

Cascade ---- check their site, lots of cool stuff to make ya poor. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/

That's a great lookin bike, I'm diggin that shade of blue.

I threw some black in the seat to help ballance out the blue and white. The radiator shroud will be getting painted white to match the tank. I.M.O. by adding a basic color like black you are able to make those parts you have not yet upgraded blend in.

You might try heating it up with a torch or heat gun and bending it back into shape. However this may cause it to become brittle and eventually crack. It may just be time to get a new / used one off ebay.

Does that apply in Staten Island? Also found a link for atv rules and regs. in NY http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/broch/c29.htm

All of the things you mentioned would be after the fact and thus pointless.

You can question yourself all day about how you should have done this or that but it is what it is just pay the tickets and move on, it's not worth the time and effort i.m.o The pain in your wallet will be a great reminder for a long time of what not to do. Every time i have got a bs ticket i just reflect back on times when I should have received one but did not and consider it a wash. No matter what anyone says you did the right thing by maning up and going back.

Remember if you flip your rims you will have to re-drill for the valve stems and plug the old holes.

I have +2" offset front wheels and love them. I have not had any problems with bump steer. These are however my sand wheels and thus I can not comment on how they would perform on track or trail.

The term triple plated gets thrown around as if it somehow the best kind of chrome when it is actually the industry standard. It simply means that there are a combination of three layers usually consisting of two nickel and one very small layer of chrome. Copied this from a chroming forum: The most important issue for durable chrome plating for outdoor exposure such as on a vehicle is that it should have at least two layers of nickel plating before the chrome: namely semi-bright nickel followed by bright nickel. The reason for this involves galvanic corrosion issues. The bright nickel is anodic to the semi-bright nickel, and sacrificially protects it, spreading the corrosion forces laterally instead of allowing them to penetrate through to the steel. OEMs demand very close control of this factor, and there is a test (the Chrysler developed STEP test) which large shops run daily to insure the right potentials. Careful control of this issue is probably the principal reason that today's chrome plating greatly outlasts the chrome plating of earlier times. If a restoration shop offers only single layer nickel plating, they must apply it really really heavy if corrosion resistance is to be guaranteed. Experts argue whether copper plating provides any additional corrosion resistance at all, but with or without copper plating, chrome on top of a single thin layer of nickel will not hold up to the severe exposure of a vehicle! Industry professionals call the two layers of nickel "duplex nickel plating", and that would be a much better term to use than "triple chrome" and such.

I ride the same, agressive dunes for the most part and was originally gona go with the elka piggy back but ended up getting a great deal on Elka Dune Edition. They are miles ahead of stock and have a decent price. I have not noticed much fade even on the long rides. My opinion is resevoirs are not necessary for the dunes. Hope this helps.

I like that look, but i would carry the yellow down further over the front nose. Then do a separating line between the two colors with a black pin stripe.

Holy thread from the dead Batman!

I love my 01 dodge, but as stated these are million mile motors in 100k chassis. I just had to do all the ball joints on mine and I'm only at 93k. One other potential problem with the older dodges is they have had issues with the lift pumps going out.