Meat

Scott good question. Do you have any porting work done ? 160psi is the "rule of thumb" for stock ported banshee's like you said, but the true way to determine your "race or pump" gas question is to calculate your compression ratio and try to factor in the variables like ignition timing and even what brand of pipes your running. I beleive that pipes that allow higher revs like CPI pipes for example would increase your chances of detonation. And your correct to be concerned with your +4 timing effecting what gas octane you can use. Let me just say that every engine reacts differently to engine mods..... with that said.... my Banshee currently runs at 165psi(20cc domes) Vito's powerpistons(raised domes) and +4 igniton timing. Last year my Banshee ran 24 cc domes and had 130psi, same PowerPistons and only +2 advance. I ran Sunoco Ultra 94 last year without any detonation so this year when I bumped my compression to 165 and went to +4 timing I had the same concerns as your having right now. I was ready to bite the bullet and shell out the big bucks for race or AV gas, but I decided to try the Ultra 94 before I switched to hi comp\dollar race gas. Im glad I tried the 94 pump gas because its running fine and I haven't experienced ANY detonation at 165psi\+4. My engine was over 3 years old at this point and I decided to try the 94 octane because..... If I experienced any damaging detonation, I wouldnt be too upset because my top end is getting old and tired anyways. I am glad to be able to keep running 94 octane. If your using an adjustable timing plate you could set it back a few degrees to "feel the water" so to speak. I had a respected builder tell me that +2 puts out nearly as much hp as +4 does, without as much heat buildup\detonation threat. I ran +2 timing for the past 3 years. Remember what I said about every engine reacts a little differntly to mods... so take my "compression\timing\pumpgas" example with a grain of salt. Keep her jetted on the fat side if you decide to try your 93 octane with your mods, richer jetting would help it run cooler and lessen the chance of detonation. Dial in your jetting later, testing for detionation. And if you here it pinging.... it should only detonate at high rpms, so get off the gas right away and let the rpms fall, then keep the engine cool by cruisin' around off the main jet. Keep that gas flowin' to your jugs because it cools the internals. Keep airflowing over the radiator to, just dont putt putt around. Once you have stopped the detonation(hopefully soon enough before any piston damage occurs) turn off the engine and fill er up with some VP race gas. hope i made some sense.... good luck with it

fill up your gas tank you crazy nut seriously tho.... you've determined that you have sparkage(thats a good thing, trust me.... I know) .... now you need to determine if your getting gas. Your gastank has gas in it I assume so possibly you have a carb problem. You could pull your carbs off and clean em up\adjust the float height. You could try pouring a very small amount of gas into the sparkplug hole and see if you can get it to ignite. Spark plugs gapped correctly ? Tight sparkplug gap will make it hard to start when she's cold. Compression check is always a good thing. Just check the compression only to rule out engine damage. Try to troubleshoot your problems by starting with the most obvious and work by processs of elimination. Make sure your carbs and floats are PERFECT.... make sure your spark plugs are perfect..... make sure your reeds are perfect.... make sure your compression is acceptable..... and make sure you have gas in your tank

absolutly want to have another fest, and your right... all the hard work is over. Me and RustyRider04 were back up to camp coalfest on wednesday and picked up every little peice of garbage we could find, we got about 3\4 of a bag full of garbage....... thats NOT alot of garbage considering how many people were there. But we have a problem folks..... as you all know, it is illegal to ride in "the strippins" where we held the last coalfest. There has been a few incidents lately that are causing the coal companies to crack down on offroaders....... 1. Around 5 weeks ago, a group of young teens were playin' around one of the strippin' holes near Mt.Carmel(20 miles from Coalfest camp) and one of the boys fell down into the pit. Broke his neck. Dead. He was only 12 or 13 years old. 2. The weekend of Coalfest, one of the mining operations was broken into, and some tools and shit stolen. 3. Also on Coalfest weekend, there was an accident at Coal Hill. It happened on Sunday afternoon, while most of us were back drag racing at camp. From what I heard.... a guy wrecked his quad and broke his leg really bad. Compound fractures and lots of bleeding. They had Life Flight land at the softball fields right near Coal Hill. I heard the state cops arrived and were kicking everyone out of the Coal Hill area. This all went down on Sunday (6\6) around 6pm. Here's the big problem. The Shamokin news paper printed a statement from the Reading coal company this past week. QUOTE: READING ANTHRICITE NOTICE No Trespassing Notice signs have been posted on all Reading Anthracite Properties. State police and Local police were contacted and they will arrest all violators, NO EXCEPTIONS. Anyone ovserved removing signs will aslo be charged with Criminal Mischief. Reading Anthracite Security Patrols and the police will concentrate their efforts at sites in Treverton/Zerbe Twp., Coal Twp., West Cameron Twp. & Mt. Carmel Twp. where violators have been observed. This is not good folks..... Around every 3 years they crack down on trespassing and its right about the time they start up again. Looks like we can't pull off another Fest without having some sort of permission from Reading Coal. I want to attempt to hold a legal Coalfest and we've been planning on how to go about doing so. Iv heard that Reading will allow passes if there is a donation going to a charity. Every spring someone holds a big ride and they dontate the funds to the cancer society. Im going to have to contact Reading and get more details. I also heard that everyone must sign a waiver.... which im sure no one will have a problem doing so. We need to start up a "fall coalfest" thread and if everyone is serious about coming back for CF 2, I'll have to start working right away. thoughts ??

amen

yama, I just emailed you with my order. I ordered 10 of em. What are the odds of getting the shirts before June 4th ? I'll pay for second day delivery or maybe even overnight. Ben says the shirts cost $19 bucks for one shipped, If Id have em sent overnight delivery so they'd be here for Coalfest....... would you guys shell out a few more bucks at Coalfest to help cover the higher shipping costs. Of course I dont plan on making any money on the shirts, just need to help cover overnight or second day shipping costs. Mabye the price of a single shirt might jump five bucks to $24 per shirt, I dunno.... whattyas think ?

guys im writing up some detailed directions right now and i'll have the directions available very soon. I want to get some pictures of some of the landmarks along the highway so I can add pictures to my directions. We're gonna have two horse shoe pits there, and the drag strip will be setup right near camp too. Are we planning on drinkin' alot of beer at camp ? How many beer drinkers do we have ?? Cause I was planning on just buying 2 cases for me and my freinds and everyone else just BYOB. But now im thinking a half barrel might be a good idea. I'll buy the half as long as I know you guys are going to drink it. Someone asked about swimming\bathing. There is a lake called "the mile" where you can swim and get the coal dirt off ya. Its around a 5 minute ride from camp, but I'll betcha its pretty damn cold this time of the year. Also...... there's no outhouses around. BYOTP bring yer own toilet paper. cyas soon

got a mint condition stock handlebar on\off \ headlight swich a few days ago. Bolted the switch to the handlebars and plugged it into the harness. Then I started organizing my wiring harness birds nest. Kicked it over..... and now I have tons of spark. Im gaurenteein' its gonna fire right up. All I did was add the handlebar switch and organize up the wires. Thats all I did. And now she's sparkin' good again. So Im pretty happy its working again. So I have to organize up this wiring harness now, I have it all ripped apart and im going to start removing unnecessary plugs. I cut the three wires leading to the TORS box connector, I followed the wires down to where they spliced into the harness and snipped em off. Retested the spark with the TORS connector removed and I still have tons O' spark. So there's one connector gone. I have four more connectors that are useless and I'd like to cut out. Can I safely remove all four of these connectors ??? All four remaining connectors are identical except two of em are white and two of em are a greyish color. Two of em go to the TORS on top of the carbs, im not sure what the other two connectors are for, I assume one might be a connector for a lead that runs to the thumb thottle. Can I snip these connectors off ?? I'll be removing them one by one tomorrow, testing for spark evertime I remove a connector. Im stoked guys, I really don't understand why adding the handlebar on\off switch brought back my spark, but on the other hand I really don't care.... just as long as its running. Tomorrow, I'll simplify the harness and wire tie everything back in place, then I'll test ride it and we'll see how it goes from there.

bump.

Ok things are much clearer now. I got a bunch of info written down and im going out to fiddle with it now. my tester doesnt have a continuity setting and its a digital one.... craftsman brand, so I'll set it to "Ohms" and when Im testing the wires for continuniutitntytytyttyy... it should zero out. Got it. And Im sure I understand the stator testing now too. I gotta thank you guys quickly cause I got a Banshee to fix right now. thanks guys..... this info is a valuable lesson I'll never forget. Electricity is just something Iv never took any interest in and I guess Its about time I learned the basics. edit, just got home, 5am. im beat.

those are kick ass !! me and rustyrider04(Del) were planning on puttin trail markers out. we got a load of wood from the lumber company and we were just gonna make an arrow template and spray paint some different colored arrows on the wood peices and then nail em to trees. Different color arrows lead to different areas of the strippins.... red leads ya to coal hill, yellow leads you to the sand pits, green takes you to the mile road etc etc etch. print me some of those babies out...... I dont have a printer

this is a good reply and I appreciate it, but it makes absolutly no sense to me, its like reading japanese. check continutity..... from the stator (red/white, green/white, red, and green) to the CDI (same colors) How do I test this, I got a electrical mutlimeter thing with a black probe and red probe, you say check the continutity..... but im lookin at the wires you say to test and the probes on the tester and I dont know if Im supposed to put the red probe on the red\white wire and the black probe on the green wire, or the red probe on the green wire and black probe on the ground wire or the red probe on the red wire and black probe on the red\white wire or black probe on the red\white wire on the stator and red probe on the red\white wire at the cdi or..... four thousand other combinations. Plus..... im I supposed to be kick starting the bike when testing these wires, cause I cant get any readings or beeping, I cant hold the probes on the connectors and kick start it at the same time, Iv tried about every possible combo with this multimeter and It makes no sense to me. You also say to test the cdi, handlebar kill and cdi the same way, but I need to be taught how to test. I couldnt make heads or tails out your earlier how to test description. why did the bike run 100% one minute and now I have nothing. Im betting one of my main parts is toast. Either the cdi, the coil or the stator died.... somehow. I didnt touch anything, it ran great one minute, dead the next. I really dont know what else to do but start all over with new electronics. NYUK do you still have that electrical system layin around ???

Banshee for sale. First $200 bucks takes it.

thanks for all the replies, im going out to work on it as soon as I get done typing. I do NOT have a key switch or an on\off switch on the bike, but I have an on\off switch coming in the mail any day now. I want to run the on\off switch\headlight switch. Can I just cut off those plugs going to the carbs ? I have the wires going to the key switch spliced together, the previous owner of the wiring harness had cut the wires just before the connector. I removed the connector and twisted the wires together. It was sparkin' like crazy before. It just stopped out the clear blue. I took all the factory loom off and im down to bare wires right now, I dont see any damaged wires or anything wrong at all. What is the pickup coil gap supposed to be ? ricky stator's directions say .015 to .020, but I don't have any feeler gauges that thin, so I just used what I had, which is a .15 and .20, I also used the matchbook cover trick I read about, a match book cover is around .18 thick. I tried adjusting the pickup coil as close to the flywheel pickup as I could get it without it hitting the flywheel and that didnt help, I then moved the pickup coil back to .20 and that didn't make any difference either. I'll pay top dollar, right now to anyone who can make me a custom "race" wiring harness, with '99 stlye plugs. I dont want to splice or solder or use connectors, I need to just plug things in. I dont want to deal with this problem any longer, its only 100 degrees out and humid as hell, not the best weather to be workin' on electrical bugs.

dates gettin' close guys. Reas had a good idea, bringing that chroming kit he's got. This would be the time and place to bring stuff to sell, so If you have some banshee\atv parts that you want to sell, bring your stuff with ya and try to sell your parts, flea market style. Everyone BYOB, bring a tent, bring some food, bring a gps, bring a camcorder, bring a camera, bring ALOT OF ICE, bring stuff. Me and RR04 are going out to work on camp again this week, we're making trail signs right now, we'll have some of the main trails marked so everyone can find thier way around..... cause if there's a large turnout.... I can't be showing everyone where to go. You'll have to just explore on your own, follow the trail markers to Coal Hill, to the Sand Pits, to the Mile and whatever else we can get marked. Im going to make a page on the banshee zone very soon with directions, pictures of landmarks and GPS numbers. Use MAPQUEST to find your way to Shamokin, zip code 17872. The directions I'll be posting will only be from Shamokin to camp coalfest. If anyone is coming up or down Interstate 81, get off at the "Shamokin\Mt.Carmel exit. Im not sure of the exit number tho, i'll try to find it out. Shamokin is about 20+ miles west of I 81, you'll have to get off the interstate and follow the smaller roads to Shamokin, once you get to Shamokin, you'll have to travel through Shamokin and on to Treverton, which sits about 8 miles west of Shamokin. Treverton, home of GNC Pro Jason Dunkleburger, we're tryin' to get Dunk to show up and ride with us for alteast one day. Still workin on that, not sure of the GNC schedule. My 12 year old son will be there riding his Blaster, he wants to know if anyone is bringin' thier kids so he has someone to ride with. Cyas soon BTW If I can't get my Banshee running in time, I'll be riding my boys kx60. J\K

Update. Nearly four hours of wiring work and I still NO sparkin'. I have spark sometimes, but not every kick, like every third kick. The spark is weak and itermitten. I checked the pickup coil gap and have it set to .020 like ricky stator says. I took all the loom and electrical tape off the wiring and couldnt find anything broken or messed up. Im going to start cuttin off useless connectors later tonight. I still want to run the factory handlebar on\off switch\light switch. Its getting real close to coalfest's dates and we have alot of work to do getting camp ready, getting directions, hangin trail markers, etc etc... and I cant get my Banshee to run. Im seriously thinking about parting the whole Banshee out..... and buyin' a new yfz. Its got me that bummed out. side note, got my leaky radiator replaced with a spare one I had. Found my front brake line wore a hole in the bottom of the radiator. Glad I found that now and not at Coalfest.

the harness is practically brand new, its from a '99 model and looked like it was in perfect shape when I put it on. The harness came with the CDI and coil and I bolted everything on. Had tons of spark. Put the quad back together yesterday\saturday and it fired right up. Ran it for about 15 minutes and it ran great, just like old times. Noticed leaking antifreeze dripping on my A-arms, took it home and turned it off. Dad was there, I told him to keep the quad running while I looked for the leaky radiator, dad has to work the throttle cause my idle is just a tad too low to keep the quad running(I need to adjust my idle screws). So I kick the bike and it starts right up, dad grabs the twist throttle and gives it some gas, im looking for the radiator leak, he lets the RPM's fall to idle and doesnt rev it back up, the engine dies becuase of the low idle, im yellin' at him to keep giving it gas. So the engine stalls, I hop back on it and expect it to fire right up again, I kick it once, twice, 10 times and it wont start. The engine is warm and it always starts on the first kick. So I pull the spark plug and find there's no spark. I put a new plug in the boot and kick it again, still no spark. So I take off the gas tank again, mind you its 90 degrees out and humid as africa, and I go over the harness. Everything is kosher. Everything is plugged in, the key wires are still spliced together, and the coil wires are on the coil. Fiddled and wiggled and kicked it and still no spark. Dad says sell it and get a YFZ. I was too hot and frustrated to work on it any longer yesterday. I just spent $300 on a complete electrical system, and I dont have any spark. I'll be out there workin on it later tonight.... i'll keep yas updated. Im not in a good mood, havent been in a good mood since my wiring problems started two weekends ago, iv put countless hours on this electrical system and couldnt get it too work, Coalfest is coming up fast, so I bit the bullet and bought a new harness, CDI, coil and 200 watt stator. Runs great for 15 minutes, and now im back to page one with no spark. The quad really runs good, and up till now has been super reliable, I rode it almost every weekend last spring\summer\fall, from April till December and didnt have ONE SINGLE PROBLEM. This year I got about 6 good rides on it and then my ground wire broke off and I havent been able to ride for past three weekends. Im just frustrated at this point, its soooo damn hot out it makes it hard to work when the sweat is drippin' in your eyes and your dad's tellin' you to sell it. On a good note, I finished up my rear brake caliper project and tested it out when I rode it yesterday. Locked the back tires right up, worked like a champ. I finally have rear brakes again, it was kinda weird. Im using a 250r rear caliper and a custom rotor from QuickSand. Stan hooked me up with a shorty brake line, and thats workin' great. 14 inch brake line. whats the stock length ?? 23 inches ?? Its pretty trick, i'll shows ya at CoalFest. denny

no spark again. im very close to parting the whole quad and buyin a new yfz. yea, im pissed. Im sickin' of workin on this quad, I want to ride, not wrench. Plus I got a leaking radiator now. I have a spare radiator, but its just another problem I need to fix. The quad fired right up today, took it for quick spin, got off and was checking the top end for any leaks, cause I just had the juggs off and thats when I noticed the radiator leaking. I found the leak, my front brake line wore a pinhole in the radiator and it was pushin out this hole. So I ride back to the house, turn the quad off and get my dad. I told my dad to blip the throttle while I look for the hole in the radiator, so I tired to start it and nothing happened. Kicked it another 10 times and it wouldnt fire up. Pulled a spark plug and found I had no spark. I check all my connectors, everything is plugged in. Tried a new spark plug but still NO spark. Its too damn hot to work on the bastard, plus im frustrated. Two weeks till CoalFest and I cant keep my quad running for more than five minutes. Pissed

Duvall wrecked twice at Rausch Creek, the first one is the one I witnessed heading into the first turn, and the second wreck was near the end of the race, the second wreck he broke his collerbone in 4 places, he wont be racing the next gncc. He did finish the race with that broken collerbone, got back on the quad and finished the race. When he got the finish line, they had an ambulance there and took him away. Borich is having one hellava bad season, I dont think he made the podium once this year. The Sparta Kentucky mud race, his YFZ had electrical problems, it fried his battery or something. He finished 193rd overall. And at Rausch Creek he was racing great until his motor blew near the end of the first lap. He had oil all over the quad, it was all over his swingarm and axle, whatta mess. I'll have to get the details on what happened. Rausch Creek is Borich and Cecco's home track and they both had bad races this year..... just like last years race. Jinxed I guess. Smiley led the whole race untill the last lap. We were in the woods walking and you can hear the Pro racers coming compared to the amatuers, the amatures are just cruzin' along and the exhaust note is just drone'ing and constant, when the Pro's start getting close that you can hear em, you know right away to get off the track cause someone is haulin' ass. The Pro's are on the gas for the entire two hour race. I don't know how that can race at that level for such a long period of time, they have to be in top physical shape. Smiley would be the first Pro that would come through..... and Ballance was a few seconds behind him. Second lap, same thing... smiley leading and then Ballance following. I guess we missed the third lap, but on the last lap we could hear the Pro's coming... and this time Ballance had the lead. Smiley just can not win the overall. He didnt win it at all last season and hasnt won it yet this year either. Lots of second places tho, but he just cant beat Bill Ballance. Bill Ballance just might be the best stv GNCC racer. Barry Hawk had 8 championships in the 90's.... and he is the king.... but.... he really did have the competition that Ballance has now, gncc racing was alot smaller back in the 90's, its huge now. Id guess there were 250 racers in the morning race and another 200 more racers in the afternoon race. Rausch Creek is also Matt Smiley's home track, Smiley only lives 30 miles away from me. Rausch Creek is only 15 miles away from where I live. Traci and Rick Cecco are from Shamokin\my hometown and Chris Borich lives 15 miles away from me. Iv never rode at Rausch Creek

yup, shees' sparkin' like a hippie at a Grateful Dead concert. Im so relieved that its running again, wiring\electrical stresses me out. I still have to tap in my tether switch and hook up my headlights.

I think that Barnett is on the right track with those finger protectors. Id buy the Barnett, all the other billet baskets will groove. I ran a Hinson basket for a while, till I traded it for a crankshaft, and my Hinson held up fine for a good solid year of use, no grooving. But even Hinson recommends running stock clutch plates because the aftermarket clutchs are too abrasive and will eventually groove the basket. When I first seen the Barnett basket with the stainless finger protectors, I thought "thats a good idea, why didnt I think of that".

SHEE LIVES AGAIN !!! Thanks for all the help, got it sparkin' again. I got the harness\CDI\coil mounted, pulled the flywheel, removed the old stator and its plate, put the new Ricky Stator on, re-installed the flywheel, connected the stator to the harness, kicked it over and NO spark.... this is around 3am\an hour ago. Boy was I pissed, all that work and no spark. I get looking closer at the plugs that go to the handlebars and remembered what you guys said about the key wires possibly needing spliced together. I found the connector for the keyswitch and low and behold there's electrical tape wraped around the wires about an inch below the connector. I removed the electrical tape and the previous owner had the wires cut, and he re-attached the connector. Well, I took off the connector where he had it spliced back together, wrapped the two wires together, kicked it over and wallaa..... all kinds of sparkage. I did a little dance, put my tools away and left. Time for bed, 4am. Thanks again everyone who replied. Sorry I havent been helping much on the forums lately...... it seems like there's just not enough hours in the day anymore Damn, im going riding this weekend !!

everyone, thanks for all the help, im going out to work on the quad now. I'll let yas know if it fires up. I have a brand new Ricky Stator 200 watt stator sitting next to me. Just ordered a set of handlebar mounted 75 watt trail tech headlights..... with the speedo holder.... oh yea.... night riding at coalfest is gonna go down. BTW, coalfest ride will be here very soon, get your quads ready. J.J. If I had the money, i'd fly over there and we'd win that race. Iv read about that race in one of the ATV mags once, its a race similar to the Pikes Peak race here in the states. Race up the mountain.

thanks led. Everyone should go see a Pro race, whether its MX or XC you'll get hooked. Iv been bitten by the racing bug, I was planning to race the RC GNCC but my latest wiring problems happened the weekend before the race and I couldnt get it sorted out before the race. yea Im pissed about the wiring. Glad to hear you enjoyed the pictures, we stood right at the corner of the first turn and the racers were so close I could lean over the banners and hit the racers with my hand. Chad DuVall wrecked right in front of us, got tangled up with that Honda and both quads were cartwheeling.... 10 feet in front of me. I couldnt get a picture fast enough, but I got a few pics after their wreck. DuVall was in dead last place and raced hard the whole race, he finished 6th.... which is crazy cause he lost so much time because of the wreck. Turns out he got into another wreck near the end of the race, ending up breaking his collerbone in three places and he wont be racing the next GNCC. Got his autograph, in fact I got the top five GNCC racers autographs. Everyone's gotta check out a GNCC race, its a blast. I'd love to take a road trip next weekend to Virginia's GNCC.

yea i was pullin my hair out last time i had electrical problems. That was last July, and it was my CDI. Put a new cdi on and it ran fine, I also made my own wiring harness and that worked fine.... till a week ago when I broke a ground wire off. Fixed the ground wire and now I dont have any spark. I went over my whole wiring harness with a fine tooth comb and fixed up ALL my connections by soldering em and covering em with heat shrink tubing... and I still dont have any spark. I don't have the time and patience to trouble shoot this shit so I just bought a harness\CDI\coil on Ebay, its all from a 1999 model. I also picked up a brandy new Ricky Stator 200 watt stator and a set of trail tech lights. I need to get this fucker running before the big CoalFest ride in early June. So just unplug the tors. I can do that. Im not going to run the stock handlebar mounted on\off and headlight switch. Do I need to do anything special with the wiring leading to these switches. I plan on mounting a toggle switch for my headlights. No on\off switch at all. And I'll be running a PD tether cord. I can handle the tether switch wiring. thanks for the reply JJ, im comin' to Africa to ride with you some day ...... after I hit the lottery .

hey guys i just bought a wiring harness to replace my mess o' wires and this one come with the little black tors doohicky\box\controller. I want to remove this, whats the best way? Just unplug it. But do I have to splice wires? I am a complete moron when dealing with wiring, so please go slow and be very descriptive with your replies. What do I do with the "Throttle Switch" wires and the "carb switch" wires? Im probably going to have more wiring questions coming...