Meat

Giving your location might be a good idea...

Amsoil Dominator @ 50:1

how many parts were broken because of the packaging ?

welcome to the banshee headquarters. The metal shit in your oil could be just from the clutch plates. Id refill the oil and try it again before you start ripping into the bottom end of your new banshee. Its common for neutral to be hard to find when the engine is running. There's also the possibility that the shifting problem is caused by the shift star or the mechanism that moves the shift star and you don't have to split the case to fix this. These parts are located behind the clutch side case cover and below and left of the clutch basket. Good luck with it, I hope its something simple to fix.

Your location please. welcome to the banshee headquarters

I would search the innerwebs for Dean Sundahl and find what length he ran on his Baja Banshees.

Thats a nice, clean quad ya got. Take care of it.

This is what happens when you lose the front mount of your belly skid plate...

I ride rocky trails all the time and haven't used a swingarm skidplate in a real long time. I'v found that if I'm careful, I very rarely hit my sprocket or rotor. I was hitting my skid plate a hellava lot more than I hit my sprocket & rotor. Iv hit my skidplate so hard I'v broken off mounting bolts, then the skid has to be removed while your out deep in the woods, far away from the truck. One of the shittiest jobs is removing broken skidplate bolts out of your swingarm, trust me. A few times iv hit the skid plate so hard and so many times that it bends into the brake rotor, and then your stuck. If you've put enough miles on an ATV, sooner or later you'll be deep in the woods, banging on your skidplate with a big rock trying to bend the plate off the brake rotor. It sucks. The perfect setup is the dual sprocket guard setup with the poly brake rotor guard. I'v bent rear brake rotors on my Banshees, but I haven't bent any on my 250R in the past 5 years I'v owned it. And if you do bend a brake rotor, its not a big deal, you can find a used brake rotor for 20 bucks. Bend the brake rotor out along the trail, just unbolt your rear brake caliper, wire tie it to the frame and ride back to the truck to put on your spare brake rotor. Every year I usually hit one big rock in the middle of the trail. You know the rock that you see coming and you know right away that its going to be close to hitting. When you see that big rock coming, get your ass off the seat, stand up on the pegs and try to actually bunny-hop the quad over the rock, if you do hit the rock... chances are that it just puts a gnash on the edge of the brake rotor. Iv had too many skid plates piss me off on the trails, so I'll take my chances without one.

and just for the record, the RZ 350 does have a thermostat.

x2

Thats a nice bike. Wish I could help ya out, but im broke as hell. Nice bike tho...

LOCATION !

I'd buy a hat.

I dunno... I wouldn't recommend using any sort of chemical based lube on chrome pipes. If your pipes are black, then you can lube em with just about anything. Go to the store, spend the two dollars on a coupla of sticks of butter or margarine. There's a good reason why people recommend butter and not chemicals. If you ruin the finish on your pipes from using a chemical based lube, don't holler at me. I was always told 'there's a right way and wrong way to do everything'. Butter is the right way IMO. Lay it on thick.

You really don't have to have to stand the quad up vertically, it helps, but its not necessary. And someone wrote not to use margarine because "it might ruin the finish", I can't agree or disagree with that statement cause I'v always used butter, but I'd bet that margarine would be fine as long as you wiped it off soon after you get the pipes installed. Lay the butter on thick. If I could get your help now. Could you please take some pictures of the process so we can pin it on the forum for future use. Everytime I'v done the procedure, I forgot to take pictures. A video would be awesome. Also the pictures would help us if you still can't get your pipes on for some reason.

Iv tried to use the butter that comes in a tub and apply it to the pipes with a paper towel, and that works too, but I had someone tell me that its easier and faster to apply it with the standard stick O' butter and I gotta agree. I found the stick of butter is easier to work with, but butter straight out of a tub is fine, just apply it with a paper towel. The key is to get the butter on the pipes as fast as possible while the pipe is still cold, I found the I can apply the stick of butter faster than the paper towel method.

Have you tried the 'freeze-butter method' ? When I installed my PTR mids I had the same problems. What ya have to do is put the pipes in your freezer, this will shrink down the pipe ever-so-slightly. Keep the pipes in the freezer overnight. Now get a stick of butter ready and as soon as they come out of the freezer rub the butter all over on the pipe. Have your quad standing in the wheelie position when you go to install the pipes, it makes it a lot easier. The combination of the frozen\shrunken pipe molecules, the butter and standing the bike vertical will make the job easier. Sometimes PTR's fit right in, but sometimes they don't, and thats when the freeze-butter method comes in handy. Good luck and take some pictures of the process. forget to add.... rub the frame rails down with the butter too.

I didn't know PTR changed their design between the J-arm and A-arm frames. Iv never heard that before. Where did you get that info from ? Has anyone else here at bhq heard of that ?

The trick to installing them is... you have to be smarter than the pipes.

No pilot jet !! aw man thats crazy, iv never heard that one before but it explains a lot. Well lets hope everything works out for ya now.

Oh nooooo ! I'm curious to know how it happened. Get some better, clearer pictures of the mess when you tear it down. Here's the fastB199's thread in the jetting forum that I replied to http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=123793 His jetting specs seem fine and he says the plugs were a dark chocolate color. Its hard to tell from the pictures but the piston doesnt look melted, it kinda looks like a production flaw in the piston. Correct me if I'm wrong, but if it ran too hot and melted, would the melting happen either at the center of the piston dome or right above the exhaust port ? The damage is not at either of these positions on the piston. I would like to hear, in detail, how you performed the break-in. How many RPM's did you rev it, how many heat cycles, how long each heat cycle was, when did you ride it, how far on the throttle you had it, any the details you can give about your break-in would help us determine if the damage was done because of the break-in procedure. I'm curious to see the chamfer on the port too. Could it have possibly caught a ring on a port to cause that damage ? The piston kinda looks more like it broke and not so much that it melted.

Nothing gets deleted, all the threads are there, they're just not shown. To see all the threads in this section of the forum... start by clicking on the "Roostin' Room" link, now look near the bottom of the page for the link that says "Click here to show filter options". Click that link and the rest is self explanatory.