mopar1rules

would it make a difference in running, if the gap was .020" versus .005"? i should just get it as close as possible then, without it hitting the flywheel?

hey rim2268, what kind of coated pistons do you have?

.22? you mean .022"?

.22? you mean .022"?

.22? you mean .022"?

i would like to know the same. what the gap is suppose to be? every manual that i look at doesn't say anything about it. would .005"-.010" be fine?

i couldn't find anything in that downloadable manual. anyone know the proper gap on the pickup coil to the flywheel?

yeah, i agree that the jets seem too small. wouldn't go any smaller than 25's with pilots. i also would start with mains that are at least 300. probably more like 320.

so, you had way more power when using the twin k&n's versus the toomey? i guess the toomey is junk then? good to know.

for crankcases, i use three bond 1104. now that stuff is called 1194. changed the chemistry of it a little. suppose to have a little more time before it sets. the threebond product is the same exact thing as the yamabond. a permatex guy at the local tech school said that permatex makes that stuff for yamaha, threebond, gm, ford and some other companies. the only thing different between the ford stuff and gm stuff is the color of it. they just change the dye. the yamabond and threebond are even the same color. yeah, that right stuff is the shiznit. its black and in that cheez wiz like tube. you put that on a valve cover on a car, or diff cover on a rear end, good luck getting it off...seriously. i can't imagine if you would use that on your cases, how you would ever get 'em split apart again.

what's the gap between the flywheel and coil suppose to be?

i always thought the t5's were suppose to be awesome for the average trail rider? i thought they were suppose to have that midrange punch too?

i would double check the bottom end now. just doing the top end now, without disassembling the bottom end to inspect things to a fuller extent, is asking for trouble. "if the bottom goes later, fix it", yeah but you will more than likely have to rebore the cylinders, get new pistons and head or dome, if a crank bearing or rod bearing lets go. now more $$ into the quad. my boss did the cheap rebuild on one of his snowmobiles, when it blew up the second time. needless to say, the second rebuild lasted 2.5 miles. GO OVER THE BOTTOM END!! don't just skimp on doing the top end.

yeah, you may have the slides in wrong. both my buddy and i were lean if we went under 330 mains. both of us have the fatties w/core 2 silencers, but run 50:1 ratio. my shee and my buddies shee, are pretty close to yours, as far as mods go. your mixture is pretty rich (32:1), so could probably get by with 320-330 mains, depending on your altitude of course.

i personally use 50:1 (amsoil dominator)

i kinda had the same problem as well. i just used a cable tie/zip tie, to hold the hose up off the pipe.

i'm wasn't making fun of you. just kinda joking along. all of us where at the beginner stage at some point in our life too:)

there's the remainder of the problem. split the cases and see if anything down low go beat up like the top end did. then you can check the crank bearings too while in there. then rebuild top end. you said carbs are already cleaned. then go and have fun again with strong motor after rebuild.

raytech, perfect example you had with the beer! oh yeah, i meant to type 38mm instead of 35mm.

exactly, the wisecos are forged and the pro-x's are cast. the reason for the larger bore needed on the forged wisecos, is cause they expand at a different rate and more than cast pistons. if u go w/the wisecos, give it a little more time to warm up, or you could have a cold siezure, if you give it hammertime too soon.

yeah, it hardly looks like a touch up/clean up....if that. i would highly doubt that there was anything done to the exhaust and transfer ports.

lol.... axlracing, you want to put a 35mm carb, on your stock bore 350 shee? i'm sorry, but that would be like throwing a holley 750 double pumper on a 4 cylinder neon...totally uneccessary. i wouldn't go any bigger than 28mm on your stock-unported shee.

don't pull the top end off just yet. you said the carbs were very dirty. give them a good cleaning and then run the bike and see the difference. also do a compression check, to see the psi that the cylinders pull, before justifying tearing the top end down.

NO SHIT...RIGHT? the airflow ain't favoring a side.

Gurnzz, you said that the problem gets worse when you put the lid on. that's telling me that its a rich condition. taking the lid of would make it breath better and lean it out, so if when the lid goes back on and the performance gets worse, should tell you that its to rich. so, jetting up to 300 mains from 260 would make it worse. i would look into sync the carbs, like someone already stated. what do the plugs look like after a wide open throttle pull in 6 gear? if they are a wet black, or even a dark chocolate brown, then you are rich. please do a wide open run in 6 gear. when wide open for like 800 feet or better, pull in clutch lever & kill the engine, but stay on the throttle until you come to a stop. pull plugs and look. can you post pics of your plugs for us?