mopar1rules

dyno jet probably doesn't label them, that way you dont know what jets they are throwing together to make their special kit. i would get some labeled ones, just like locogato11283 said. you said you have k&n.....but do you have the big filter that goes inside the airbox, or dual pods?

yeah, i've never been a fan of jet kits. put one in my yamaha r1 and boy did it make it run like shit. fucked with all the different clip positions and jets.....still never right. put stock jetting back in and much better. don't know how they are getting 8 hp out of it, with their jet kit......that's what it showed on the little dyno sheet that came with my kit. and i spent $120 on that pos kit. when i got my yamaha r6 and noticed that it was all burbly in the midrange and lowend, i took carbs out and noticed that one of the previous owners, put a jet kit in. well, out that kit went, and in with the stock jetting. as for JasonsBanshee, i would run stock needles. i've never came accross a time where i needed different needles. the stock ones will work fine with you.

slp is "starting line products"

totally acceptable. the very edge of acceptability is 1 lb drop per 1 minute.

i'm unsure.

OK, THANKS GUYS.

i'm not trying to jack the thread here, but noticed that some people have been saying that they get the pistons cut and worm holes added. i know what the worm holes are, but what exactly is getting cut on their pistons? like the skirt or something, so it doesn't block flow to the lower transfers.....or is it the opening of the 2 intake ports on the side of the piston?

200-210 mains (depending on year), pilots 25, middle clip on needle, 2 turns out on air screws.

where the hell is the electrical section, that has the info on modifying your stock timing plate? i seen it once before, but now can't find it.

no prob. just let me know how it works with the 250's or 260's if you try them. so what did you all change so far? just the mains to 240? did you up the pilots to 27.5? where's the clip on the needle right now....middle?

i'm going to assume you could run the fmf power core 2's

thanks slobanshee06. i love the technical replies like that, that describe or tell me exactly whats going on. anything to feed my brain some more knowledge:)

i personally am running the belray gear saver trans oil.

did u put the piston in the right way.....with the 2 intake holes on piston skirt, facing the intake ports on the cylinder? i'm trying 2 think right now of other possible things

thats ok, i got it figured out.

what a joke? hey, one quick question, which carb would the float bowl marked "1-1" go to....the left (mag side)? if so, then the bowl marked "1-2" would go to the left side (clutch side)? i'm just double checking my carburetion here today.

yeah, the oooo stuff is the shizit

exactly what i was going to say:)

i agree with what hilarious suggested to start off with, but i would also try 27.5 pilots.

...X2

.003" per 1" of bore is correct. you probably will be fine with your ring end gap, since you are running wisecos. i've noticed with the wiseco and pro-x pistons, that they have the ring end gap correct right out of the box. i've noticed though, with spi (snowmobile piston manufacturer), that their ring end gap needed to be addressed. also, pay attention to the ring markings like monster_energy said. if you catch the ring in the light just right, you will see a letter stamped on it, by the ring end gap. that must face up when installed on piston.

ok. hey did you get those 28mm flatslide tm carbs yet off of ebay?

snoop, can you send me a pic of what you are talking about? also, i got the low-mid tension carbon tech reeds.

leave what alone.....the intake ports, the reeds, the reed stoppers?

i tried to post pics again, but keeps saying its larger than available space. its only 55kb big....wtf?