mopar1rules

well, for sure you will be needing to run race gas. probably straight. if your are planning on trail riding this quad, i would look at getting domes in the range of 20cc-22cc. nothing tighter than 20cc. if i was you, i would find a set of pipes for it first. best thing and probably 1st thing to do when modding a banshee. just my .02.

get a good comp tester. fuck the sears shit. get a snap-on or matco or mac tester. the sun pros don't seem to be that bad either. also, you shouldn't have to kick it over 20-30 times to check the comp. 6-8 good kicks is enough. absolutly no more than 10.

i'm taking a stab a this, 380 mains, 30 pilots, stock needle @ stock clip pos

did it smoke like crazy? on my shee w/ fmf fattys and core2 silencers, k&n filter, and boost bottle, i run 350 mains, 25 or 27.5 pilots, stock needles @ stock clip position, stock air jets, but my air box lid is back on. just for shits, put you lid back on and see if its better. if it is, then your are lean. put needle clip position in the middle too for now, if you have stock needles.

u might have the float bowls on the wrong carbs. there is a right way and a wrong way. i wonder too if the choke is leaking.

run a 50/50 mix

i'll probably start my own thread. i don't think you were being a jerk or anything. its totally understandable how you could be getting confused. i apologize too, to the fellow that started this thread. i didn't mean to take all the help away from you. i just thought the 2 of us would have the same problem, so when someone said do "this" and "that", that we would have killed 2 birds with 1 stone. my bad. just one more question, which bowl to what carb? isn't there one float bowl with the long brass vent tube and one without one, or something like that? or is it for the fuel pickup for the choke? if thats the case, wouldn't it go on the left carb?

depending on your elevation yes. i would run a 50/50 mix of race gas with 93 pump gas to be safe.

what kind of needles would you suggest for me there dajogejr? my mods are in my sig. elevation is 900-1000 feet above. 350 mains, stock needles @ stock clip postion, either 25 pilots or 27.5 (can't remember which), stock air jets, and unsure on # of turns on pilot screw (i think its around 4-5 turns out). not to much more and the screw will fall out.

exactly, check the parking brake switch by the clutch lever. mine did the same thing. i assumed you had the parking brake on, while you were hauling it, which would explain why the switch is stuck and acting up now. while you are at it, clean those carbs and check the air filter. if it sat for a while, mice could of had the chance to build a nest, or bring unwanted seeds and such into the airbox.

i have stock stator, stock cdi, stock timing (no + timing key), and stock carbs.

i was going to suggest starting mains of like 330's to 350's.

i run amsoil dominator at a 50:1 ratio. works just fine. 32:1 is way too rich. wouldn't run anything richer than 40:1.

ttt

are your domes cut big enough in diameter for the bigger bore cylinder that you are now using? i think whats happening is that the dome is for the stock bore, and the crown on top of the piston is hitting on the little flat area that is around the edge of the dome. you might not know what i'm talking about, but someone else on here will chime in, knowing what i'm talking about, and then be able to explain it better.

someone has to know something to help the 2 of us out

mine seemed to take some time to color. i know when i put new plugs in my snowmobiles, it will take anywhere from 20-40 miles to get a color to them.

please post your elevation and all mods to atv. also, the fuel you are running and ratio. with the mods to my shee (are visible in my sig) and @ 900-1000 feet above sea level, here is my current jetting: 350 mains, stock needles in middle pos, 25 or 27.5 pilots, stock air jets, and stock needle jets

and there's a difference between the floats in the right or left carb? this news is new to me.

what mods do you have on your shee? what elevation are you at? what is your current jetting?

i agree with smaller pilots. try 25's. no need to be any bigger than 27.5's.

i think i'm having the same thing as you. idles great. runs great. you can go wide open down the road and it will run great. turn around and begin to head back, and then i will get on it and it will stutter for like 3 sec, sometimes 5 sec. after it stops stuttering, it will run crisp again and pull like hell through all gears. i changed pilots and still nothing, so i'm beginning to think its something electrical too. when i go back on it, it doesn't matter wether i just pin it wide open, or give it slowly to wide open, it will do the same thing. i forgot to mention that if i'm going wide open and let off and get back on it, its fine. doesn't stutter. it only does this when i slow down to like 1st or 2nd gear and turn around to head back down the road.

i agree with rubberneck. single carb to me seems like a waste. stick with stock carbs or go up to 28mm.

you probably need to fatten her up. i live at 900-1000 feet above sea level. i have 350 mains, stock needles w/clip in middle, 25 or 27.5 pilots. i know for a fact that i couldn't be running anything less than 330 mains. i might drop to 340 this year, but will have to keep a closer eye on plug color. my buddies banshee would always blow up when running 280-290 mains like what you have. he also has 19cc domes w/pro design head. all his other mods are exactly the same as mine. he had to go up to 370 or 380 mains. his airbox lid has holes drilled in too. he runs a 50/50 mix of 110 race to 93 pump gas. him and i both mix our oil ratios to 50:1. he runs belray oil, i use amsoil dominator. you could of had an air leak too. i doubt that though. i would be willing to bet, that your mains are too lean. jet yours like mine is and go from there.

i wouldn't be blowing any air to try and get the debris out. you could possibly blow some fine particles into the balls of the bearings. the only proper way is to disassemble the bottom end entirerly and flush it out and also inspect the crank bearings while in there. rotate the bearings and feel for any binding or rumblyness of the bearing. my buddy had his wristpin bearing shatter as well. he was using wisecos. don't know if that has anything to do with it. his was the right cylinder. how does the plug color look when doing a wide open run for like 600-1000 feet? cardboard brown? is the left cylinders plug all sooty black on the outside around the white porcelin? that would indicate a faulty spark plug cap. poor connection to that plug. you can see my mods in my signature and here is my current jetting: 350 mains, stock needles w/clip in middle postition, 25 or 27.5 pilots...(can't remember which), stock needle jet, stock air jet, can't remember # of turns on pilot screws. my elevation is 900-1000 feet above sea level.