mopar1rules

maybe the tig welding talk came into play with the talk of triple exhaust ports and i just mixed 'em up?

ahhh, i get it now. thanks for the pics brandon.

fmf fattys wouldn't be a bad choice then either.

things are still a little fuzzy.

i hear of people saying the have ported reed cages. what exactly do they mean? what exactly gets ported or opened up?

anyone else? all opinion/facts appreciated.

deckheight is who told me the cc volume of the stock head and head gasket. he gets the credit for that. :smile:

if you want it done, i could do it for you. just send me a personal message.

klotz smells good, but i sure love the smell of my amsoil dominator. i run 50:1 and no smoke. nice and clean w/good smell.

it looks like someone tried to open the exhaust ports a little bit. i think it was ray charles that was on the dremel though :biggrin:

i ported (matched transfer area to the lower transfers of the cylinders) the upper crankcase half of my shee engine this weekend, and was wondering how much it will effect my jetting? i was thinking i could up my mains 1 size? what do you guys think?

i was told and have heard of some people adding "boost ports" or "worm holes", that are 1/4" in diameter to their intake on the cylinders, that lead directly into the transfers. i've seen some photos and am able to do this work myself, but i have also heard that it weakens the cylinder and you have to add some tig weld on the outside of the cylinder. i want to know if its really worth the hassle? so far it doesn't seem like it. i only trail ride and cruise around in the local farmers field, so i need reliability. here's a link to a pic that i was thinking about doing. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...l%3Den%26sa%3DN its on page 3 and its one of the pics on the left side. it will have the discriptions and labeling of the boost ports and size.

i am running a stock head that's shaved .015". i'm going to shave it another .015". it will be just fine for pump gas. it is a 2guy-2 casting, so stock its a 22.4cc head. remember .84cc is for head gasket volume, so you'll have to add that in.

i was thinking 300 mains as well. i told him to start at 320's to be safe. better to start rich than be too lean :thumbsup:

nope, just 93 pump gas. i'll try to do the plug chop method this weekend.

depending on temps, start off with like 320 mains, stock needles with clip in the middle, stock pilots and 1-1/2 turns on air screws.

these plugs are colored the way they are from the mains. i went wide open down the road and came wide open back. after like 5 sec of wot in 6th gear i killed it and pulled in the clutch lever, right when i killed it. i pulled the plugs and snapped pics right away of what they looked like. so the coloration that you see is wot for 5 sec in 6th gear. i think there was confusion, with some thinking that i was doing all sorts of throttle ranges and drove the shee around for like 1 hr before pulling the plugs and seeing what the color was. that's not what i did. i'm going to try the plug chop method though, to see what kind of reading i get that way.

i wouldn't think so. don't see what a guy could really fuck up during the install of a tors removal kit, to give you the tuning griefs that you've encountered.

cardboard sprockets are much much better :thumbsup:

oh no, these plugs didn't have only 1 run on them. they have a couple hrs runtime on them. while farting around in the yard they will darken some and then when i do the wot runs down the road, they get to a nice cardboard brown.

hopefully i'm sensing sarcaism and you're not serious:)

that's good to here that you've got it fixed. now take those shitty ass carbs and smash them with a sledge hammer, for all the grief they put you through:)

you must be color blind or something:) it looks light brown to me:) i don't see no red:)

yeah, i like to usually run mine a little lighter than chocolate brown myself. it ran well, but with a little rich gurgle off the line with lid on and snorkel off. was running 340 mains. drilled some 1-1/8" holes on the underside of the lid and the girgle went away, with the 340 mains still in. i might go up to 350's, just for the peace of mind:)

you can hone them and throw in a new set of rings, if there isn't any deep scoring going on. also, keep an eye on the bore diameter tolerances. if the bore gets too big or out of tolerance by like .001"-.003", the ring end gap will be greater and there will be more compression lost through the larger ring end gap. not to mention too much piston to cylinder clearance. can you say "broken piston skirt"? if you just run a common kd tools engine hone through it for 20 sec, you won't be opening up the bore much. try to get the crosshatch marks at like 45-60 deg angles. my uncle who worked for bombardier for 17 years, told me they tested blue marble oil and it was horrible. he would not recommend it to be used in anything. if i were you, i would run some amsoil dominator, as i have had great luck running it in all my toys.