hercalmighty

An air leak can cause a hole in the piston. This was from cracked air boots

To be honest most times it only takes one guy to nail it. Larry pretty much got you going in the right direction. When you cleaned the carbs did you make sure to put the correct slides and bowls in the correct carbs? There is a left and right slide and bowl on stock carbs. If you switched something it will screw you up for jetting.

The stock airbox isnt bad if you run it without an air lid. I ran an open air box with a twinair air filter for a long time without any issues. I ride pretty much harescrambles, dirt, mud, creek crossings, all the good stuff. There are also aftermarket air boxes out there that are pretty good. You can pick up a used stock air box for cheap. As far as the bushings go, if you want something good get delron* bushings (*I think thats how its spelled).

The water bottle thing is one way to do a quick check but the best way to do it is to use a leak down tester. What you do is use the tester and put 6psi into the motor and see if it holds the pressure for 6 minutes. It will test the whole motor. The tester cost about $20 to build and only takes a few minutes to put together.

You could have a crank seal going. The best way to go is use a leak down tester.

Do you have a link?

If a seal is going it will effect the side with the bad seal a lot more then the other. Its pretty simple and cheap to make a leak down tester. It is well worth the time and few bucks to make it.

Do a compression check and leak down test before you do anything else. It sounds like you might have some sort of problem with the left cylinder.

Sandfrk33 is one of the good guys on here. Sent money as soon as we struck a deal. Dont hesitate to do deals with him. .

What elevation are you at and what octane gas do you want to run?

What kind of dirt riding do you do? What pipes do you have?

HAHAHA, shit, caught me in a screw up. Thinking lower the dome size to raise compression. So to correct my post, you want to RAISE compression!

Pipes, lower compression, add timing, after market air filter, lose the air box lid if you run in wet areas or the whole air box if you only ride in the dry, PORTING!!!!!!

They look right to me. If they are +1 forward the shock mount would be -1 from center depending on how the arms are made

Its either Janssen or Fireball who sold them. Either way they were made by Fireball.

Fouledout and a couple other guys vouched for him in his other sale threads.

Oh, one other thing. I couldnt get my bike to run for shit with the airbox lid on. I tried just about ever main from 145-160 and it would just bog on top. Once I pulled my air lid the thing ran great and ended up with 45 pilot, 160 main, clip in the middle with a N68A needle. My mods were T6s, VF2s, air box with a twin air no lid, 20cc domes, +4 timing. Im at sea level also so you should jet down. When I threw the 28s on a buddy of mines, he had FMF fatties, 21cc domes, +4 timing, a Uni filter in an open box, Boyesen reeds on stock cages and his jetting was 45 pilot, 155 mains, middle clip on N68A needles

LOL. I know the 30 OKOs dont have them. So far almost every set of 28s I have seen have them though. So check and see if you have them. If so you can just run a vent hose between them. Also, your main sounds way lean. I would go up to at least a 150-152 main.

Yes. I am talking about 28 PWKs. I had a set on my banshee. I dont have a pic to put up. Like I said, it looks like a little vent nipple sticking straight up on top of the carb on the intake side of the carb. I think it may have been for an oil injector or something.

A leak down tester only cost about $20 to make and takes about 1/2 hour to put together. Then just let the sealant setup over night and your good to go. There is thread on here on how to make a leak down tester. It is well worth the time and money to make one. As for the compression, are you kicking it until the needle stops moving and holding the throttle wide open? Also, are you using the correct adapter? It should be the same length as the threads on your spark plug.

If you look at the top of the carbs on the intake side there should be little vents (there are in between the slide and intake boot). they are smaller then the vent lines on the side of the carb. Either you put a cap on them or run a piece of vent hose between the two carbs.

Did you plug the two vents on top of the carbs by the intakes or run a hose between them?

BUMP!

Hotrod uses orings to hold the bearings instead of the little pins. If you have the clips in you should be good to go

Yes you can use your head, intakes, and v-force reeds. You will need to get different domes and you might want to get your crank trued and welded. As far as pistons go it depends on what size bore the cylinders are