hercalmighty

That looks like 1/16 or about 1.5 mm. So about .060 inch squish.

13/38 should be close to stock ratio. I personally like a 15/41 ratio on my bikes. What rear tires do you have because that will make a difference also

As a quick rule of thumb for every one tooth on the front is like changing the rear 3.

Hmm. Might have to give Andy a call and see if he is still building those cranks. You are right Tricked. Hardy hear from him any more. He is good dude. I had him cut me some cheetah domes about a year ago.

Who's forged crank did you use Tyler? Was it one of Andy's cranks?

Thanks sleeper. That's what I was looking for. It seems like the biggest issue with cranks failing is the rods themselves or shitty true and welds. As far as forged vs billet webs, there are lots of people running hot rod 4mil cranks with the big bores so I don't think that's an issue. I hear pros and cons with both setups. If I was building a full on drag bike I would go billet but this is just a play bike.

Ok. Kind of figured. 800 is better then 1200 though

Which ones tricked? The one for $400 or the one for $800?

Yeah. I put it all together and ran it. Just didn't seem to have what it should. Checked the squish and yep, 7mm 72 bore cylinders. I don't think it's been ported. If I can't find a 7mm crank for a good price, might check with some builders on making it a 10mm

I don't think they do. I will have to look. I bought what I thought was a 472 cheetah, ends up that it's a 499 cheetah. So I have an almost new 4mil hot rods crank that's useless to me lol

Bump. Willing to throw some money on top for the right crank.

Anyone????? This is for a play bike not an all out drag bike. Don't really want to spend 1200 on a crank works crank but I don't want something that's going to grenade on me. I know some of you guys run different stroker cranks.

Just trying to get some opinions/ options on who makes good 7mm cranks. I don't care if it's forged or billet webs. I know crank works is a good option. Does anyone know about the tdr cranks, the ones he builds in house that run $800? How about Andy at No Limit/M&M? Is he still building cranks in house? Any other options anyone has first hand experience with? Thanks

Ok cool. Just double check the procedure to do the plug chop

Do a plug chop to check your main jet. To be honest, one main bigger isn't going to hurt you and will keep you on the safe side for play riding. Now that it's running pretty good, do the plug chop and see what your plugs look like. Who knows, you might have to go up still on the main

This one is two years old

This is a year old

Dude. This thread is almost 3 years old

It's all right in the ad.

Coupelx, do you have any info on those pv's

What is this in reference to?

This is an honest question, What does a similar size super cub make on gas without any porting? From what I have read it seems that as the cc's go up the power ratio goes down.

Ok. I'm sure this is a long shot but might as well try. I have a hot rods 4mm crank that was trued and welded from fast. Has about 4 hours on it which was mostly test and tune sessions. Looking to trade for a 7mm crank in good shape, welded, and has 115 hot rods connecting rods. Doesn't matter if billet or forged just as long as it has hot rods connecting rods. My crank has standard bearings, looking for same. Let me know what you have.

Sweet. Sounds good man.

I was looking around at other pvs from other motors and the ESR pvs for the 250r looks similar