2001Stroker

If those clamps will fit CPI's, I'll take them.

It is to bleed the air out of the coolant in the head. The only way to get around it is, take the nipple out and replace it with a pet-cock. Know what I'm talking about? They are on alot of radiators to drain them. They're even on the bottom of air compressor tanks to drain the water out. Whenever you drain the coolant, use it to bleed the air out of the system. Leave the radiator cap off, and keep refilling the radiator until you're done.

I thought they were only 1 year. They're only like $30 a peice, I think. I bought some brand new, and they were somewhere around 80-90 a peice. I wish I would have known about the eBay refurbs. I would have got those instead.

Hell yes they are. Helped out a little with forearm pump. Plus, they fold back. You can get the refurbished ones on eBay for cheap. You just don't get the same warranty.

Mine is enroute to the crib as we speak. You can get everything you need from Andy at M&M. That's where I got all my stuff, and he was way cheaper than all of CP's other dealers. They use totally different heads, CR250 intakes. All of his come with a clean-up port job. You can order them with more, but that's all you need. You don't have to have a TZ bearing. Just remember if you do get one, you need to change to straight cut gears. The angle cut gears put a side load on TZ's, and they're not made for that. A Max Load bearing is all you need. They also use small flange pipes, or you can order them with big flange. Most people will reccommend big bores, but I'm using small bores on mine. You can get an aftermarket controller. The Cheetah PV setup works off of exhaust pressure, and the aftermarket one works off of engine RPM. You have to get the RZ350 wiring harness for that setup. I don't like it because the servo's and cam wheel are open to the elements, and I ride trails. I don't want a glob of mud getting in there, and making my PV not work. You should also think about some tranny work. A better shift cam, lockout, and grinded shift star should be good enough. If you plan on keeping it off the trails and not doing lots of backloading the transmission, get an over-ride. Hope that helped a little.

x2 on that.

I just explained this last night. And it's about 3 topics under this one. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=109013&hl=

Congrats Rubberneck. I guess that's what I get for not buying a ticket. lol. Have fun with your new bike. :thumbsup:

Up in your browser, go to Tools, Internet Options, Delete All Cookies.

Print that blueprint at the top of the page. Take it to a local machine shop, and have some made. That's all I can tell you.

Good luck man. This dude hasn't been around here in a long while.

I just used this code.

The kill switch gounds out the spark. It may either have a bad ground, or the contacts inside the switch might be corroded. Mine did that on occasion too.

Looks like head gasket material.

MarineNYC has them. I asked him about them, and he likes them. You might ask him, cause I haven't seen anyone else with them.

try again bro.

Damn, those 916's look brand new. Nice find. Bike's looking good.

That blows man. They do need to keep the records for every transaction, for at least 7 years, for IRS audit purposes. Since it's done turned into a white collar crime, I would skip the calling uniformed cops, and go straight to the detectives. They can get a search warrant for the records. Do you have the VIN? Did you originally report it stolen to the police? Try to Google the VIN, and maybe the idiot was stupid enough to put it in the eBay listing. Hope you get your shit back. And yes, most of the time, once an ATV or off-road piece of equipment is stolen, the chances of ever seeing it again are very slim. So, whenever something like that gets reported to the police, they will usually be straight up with you, and tell you that it's probably a lost cause. But there is that slim chance that it will get found. So, you do need to report it anyways.

Obviously, take the steering stem out. Looking from the top, the bearing is held in by a recessed nut. Get a bolt and 2 nuts, with the head the same size as the recessed bearing nut. Put the head of the bolt in the bearing retainer and use the 2 nuts and jam them together on the bolt. Then use a socket or wrench to unscrew it. Then just pop the bearing out.

I bet that "extremely large carb" puts that baby in the wind. I think there needs to be a forum just for stupid ass craigslist ads.

Had a bearing retainer on hand, that I broke. Shipped it that day, and just got it 2 days later. Thanks man.

Mine now, homie. Just came in the mail a couple hours ago.

You said it. Holy shit, I just sifted through that many pages, just to hear a bunch of horny ass men begging for pictures of a female, and then argue about it being BansheeRider87's girl. Pathetic, fellas. I know it's all in fun, but damn. Anyways, welcome to BansheeHQ, Katie. I'm sure that your man turned you on to this site. Hopefully this thread doesn't drive you away. You can actually learn alot on here.

Hollow side towards the bearing.

Looks good to me.