DallasGDub

It will come with everything you need locking nut and all. Good idea to change out the rear bearings while you have it broken down.

Seems like if he was just the mechanic, he would know what to look for. What a POS. Are you at least able to sell it to make your cash back?

My FAST clutch is going in this weekend

Just remove the box and pipes. No need to pull the motor. He was meaning "razzing" you about searching the website for common questions. Not about knowing what a leakdown test is.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95229

I forgot to add that I only run mine on the front, I have a +4 axle.

YES.....they suck at service and shipping. (but have good prices) got my rims and tires from them and it was the exact same thing. Ordered on a Sunday, got it the Wed of the next week. Same for my Nerf Bars. I think the 3-4 to business days is after it leaves the building. And about 4 days to proc an order. And the chic that gets the phone does not know shit.

Greatness! lol

I run the 1.5" DuraBlue along with +2" A-Arms and I love it. I do have to keep and eye on turning really sharp. Sometimes the front will bite really hard and whip the bike around. I took a trip over the bars once b/c of this lol. But the secure stability on fast corners is well worth more than the few spin outs I have had.

I don't know what year it is, but my homie found out the hard way. He got some that were advertised as YFZ on ebay, but they were 700's. Look just like the 450, but you can see a difference in the spring. It is a single rate shock. They were also VERY VERY stiff on stock arms. Not sure what the EYE/EYE was. He ended up getting works and ditching these. http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p275/je...et/shocks02.jpg

Welcome to the HQ. Make sure to post up some before, during, and after pics. Build pics are the best. My xwife lives just out side of Jacksonville, TX.

On your steering stem, it is not the actual stem that twist, it is where the tie rods bolt to. It is a weak point for sure. They should have a angle, but you can tell if it is way off. I tweaked mine last year from going around a turn and catching a tree root in the rim. Bent the rod, and stem. Here are pics of my bent stem. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...pic=104830&

Naw, no bike pic. That's to normal.

Yeah, I was just showing where it could go if we had one.

Just throwing this out, of coarse with one of the fonts you posted loco it would be 100xbetter. Or even a custom logo.

Not HUGE letters on the front, maybe 5" BHQ and 1.5" EST1998 right under it. Either way, front or back, I like lettering with a cool fonts. If we had a logo, The front could be that about 4" in the middle of the chest. With the BHQ EST1998 on the back and the site down at the bottom.

Front: BHQ in big letters and EST1998 in small letters right under it. Back: www.bansheehq.com along the bottom lower seam. Red or Black shirts with white letters. White shirt with black letters. All cheap and easy.

Honestly, spend a few weeks reading on here before doing anything. I did not know any of this shit either. You will be amazed what you can pick up on from this site. Jetting, timing, it is all easy stuff. Shaving the head is a cheap way to gain compression. You send it off to have done.

Tors are the big things on top of your carbs with your throttle cable and other wires going into it. It is old technology. It can kick in when it is not needed, break, and just makes a bunch of trouble shooting issues. A Tors Kit, is a removal kit that takes all this out and lets you run a normal carb set up. You can Search TORS and read all about.

So many ways, but here is one easy way..... Go to photobucket.com make a free account. Upload your pics. Once this is done, below the picture in your photobucket profile, you have all these links. Whatever you want us to see, copy the link for the "IMG Code" paste it into your post. It will then show up in your post.

You will need to jet your carbs for those pipes. While your at it, I would swap the stock filter for a K&N just b/c they are 10x better. If you run with no lid, run outerwear's. It will help when going thru puddles. Keep in mind that any time you make a mod that has to do with fuel/air ratio, you will have to jet accordingly. As far as a cheap mods, gearing for trail use is a good. I personally would put a timing plate in and deck/shave the head. Thats a great bang for the buck. The list of mods is endless. It really all depends on when your happy with it. Do one mod at a time until your ok with the performance. Edit: Like Shogs said, tors can lead to big issues. Take all that off.

Bump b/c I have the same question.

I have heard that the arrows lining up is not a must, it is more of a guide for stockers. As long as the clutch is fully engaging / disengaging, your all good. This goes along with what fastbanshee8 said. I put the cascade pancake in Scotties bike, along with the FAST clutch and it lined up. We have very little room to work with on the stock perch adjustment, but it works. I run ASV, but have not installed my FAST clutch or HJR pancake yet. It is going in next weekend. I hope I don't have this issue.

Twin row you can add 2 sets of bearings (thats 4 bearings all together, 2 on each side). I want a round house bad, but it has to wait until next winter revamp. This season is already tapped.