Misssppelllleddd

I don't know about the 400ex....those quads are just plain shit!

that test was done a long time ago. check previous editions of dirt wheels. i remember reading about it about 6-7 years ago (or something like that) and pro circuits had the best low end. i think fmf, toomey's, pt's, and trinity's pipes were all tested too.

whats so bad about it?

same here...i didn't have to ream my spindles either...and mine are stock

Oh God! Here it goes...... How bout someone be more MATURE by letting it go?

i don't notice any shavings in my oil at all. it looks absolutely clean and new. at first i saw metal shavings when the clutch was brand new.

i second the torches...i had to do that as well and i didn't even sandblast it in there

but it has 8 plates and some heavy springs. does that make a difference at all?

i have the same exact problem as bansheexpx. at idle it only fires on the right side every once in a while. comp test is good. flywheel is rusty (probably the problem), 2-1 carb, and new dyna cdi. its always been that way and i really never thought too much of it before until my last rebuild.

as entertaining as that was please don't do it again. as far as the drain plug situation, thanks for the heads up because i use one from FAST and seems like a good product thus far. :thumbsup: and i change my oil after every 2 days of riding because the instructions from Hinson said so. i'm not taking any chances. last thing i want to do is fuck up my quad again. i use golden spectro 80w

Ok my mods are in my sig. When I rebuilt I coated the cylinder walls with oil and the pistons too. I did a compression check and turned out to be 180lbs. Thats just what I wanted. After break in I checked it again and I came up to about 185lbs. I can work with that. After about 10hours of riding I did another check with two compression gauges and it turns out I'm pushing 205lbs in each cylinder. Is this really plausible? I have no problems with detonation or anything and I checked the squish and I'm about .043 in each cylinder. I also run 112 octane fuel mixed at 40:1.

here are multiple oh shit moments from me....haha :biggrin: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=92040

I'm lookin to change out my nerf bars to some that are wider. Any good ideas on which brand?

Depends on how many hours you have on your current build, how you ride, and how you jet your bike. If you do alot of preventive maintenance then you should have no problem keeping your current build through the summer. Just remember to keep up with it or your shee will be dead all summer.

ok correct this is this is wrong...i was told by trinity racing that the stock impeller should be used (though i still use the billet) because the coolant is cooled in the radiator and the billet 'megafolo' impeller will move the coolant too fast through the cooling system. It kinda makes sense and I've never thought of it that way before. And inline coolers suck! I had one and it didn't even change one degree. I use the Trinity Stage IV head and I had more than a couple degree change. I was overheating with the stock one and after the switch I never had a problem again. Best Trinity mod ever bought! :thumbsup: I also have a PWR radiator which is about 50% thicker than stock and still fits really nice. Only problem I had with that was the radiator cap would sometimes come lose...but that is fixed. I have always ran engine ice and that seems to hold up well to its reputation but i still didn't help out on my stock system too well. After all this the highest temp I had was about 206 degrees on the trails. When I would take off on a drag I would drop to as low as 142 degrees. No shit! I hope this helps.

35 isn't too big...but i did use a 33mm carb with the same setup before..only difference was that I had 19cc domes and it worked great.

contact slobanshee06.....he really knows his shit and can be of great help.

I would but I'm done for the winter. :sad:

The one on the swing arm doesn't have any bearings at all. If it moves alot you might want to replace it. The stock one is pretty thin and I'm not a big fan of it so I bought an Cascade Chain slider from RMATV. Much thicker than stock and I would prefer that one because it helps guide the chain as well. The upper and lower rollers have bearings. I would suggest going aftermarket on those as well. I used the 'power lip' one from TMD. That one works pretty well. As for the top one...I've never seen any markings on it from the chain. Hope this helps.

What are the advantages to having a pancake bearing on a clutch? I heard that it helps keep the ball from welding to the rod but is there any other advantage?

what about pancake bearings for the clutch? what advantages do those give?

I don't know why but I try to adjust my clutch and it still catches some. Could it be my mods? Mods in sig. Do I have enough hp to where i would need a lockup? Whenever I'm in neutral I pull the clutch lever and put the shee in 1st gear and it will jolt forward and die. If I increase the rpm's then try to put it in gear then it is fine. As I ride more and the engine gets hotter I notice that the engine bogs a little bit whenever I pull the clutch and just sit in place and if I gas it a little bit then it will creep forward a little. Would a clutch lockup help with the creeping? I use 80w Golden Spectro and I have the Hinson 8 plate clutch system. The clutch has probably about 30 hours on it. I'm completely stumped on this.

This post is more entertaining than the "85hp Banshee on pump fuel" post! :yelrotflmao: I thought about shortening the harness but when I bought a Dyna FS CDI, the instructions told me not to shorten the wiring harness or any of the wires at that matter. So I didn't. But I did put a tether kill switch on and it seems to work fine. Just used electrical tape. Probably not the best idea. I removed the TORS and headlights and I never shrink wrapped the connector ends or capped them. I really think I should. What are good materials to use to cap the connectors so I can still use them if I want to put the headlights back on? And I have never shrink wrapped anything before so I don't know how to do it. So I guess I'm :shoothead: ? Lol! Anyways to be serious, I would like some help with this.

I would go with LSR and Gforce. Never heard anything bad about those two. I would never say Durablue. I broke one in half in less than 10 hours of riding just out of doing jumps and I could see the impurity in the metal right on the break. It cost me more than just shipping for a new axle. Split the case halves. Could have used a case saver at the time. I still have the replacement but I'm not gonna get another one if this one bends or breaks.

Compression ratio and timing advance is what really matters in choosing race fuel. Yeah you can do a compression test to see how many lbs of compression you have but it really matters on compression ratio and timing advance. If you have too low of octane fuel you can have problems like detonation. When you put your top end back together make sure you torque your spark plugs to the right torque spec. If the spark plugs back out then you have a detonation problem. Either your timing advance is too much or you have too low octane fuel. All in all you have to determine the compression ratio first. Figure out how much octane would run on that ratio. Then figure in your timing advance and add the octane rating from there.