Misssppelllleddd

You are right about the pilot jet but your main jet could be allowing excess fuel into the system too quick. That happened to my friend's 'shee. Exactly. He had a problem with low end bogging and we just changed the main jet and it worked just fine. If you want a quick fix without messing with the carb then run 20cc-21cc domes. Just run the right fuel.

Yeah that is what happened to me. I had most of the trouble in the mid range but once I changed out the main jet to a smaller one I was okay.

Ok start with what you got. I know that this is a bitch but it has to be done. A 2-1 33 carb set up are a little different than 2 33mm carbs. I have the same set up. I bought it from Trinity racing and they set it up. I had a 175 main and the stock air that came with the 33mm carb. I had Pro-Circuits and no timing advance. What really helps out with the single carb is that there is constant air flow through one carb and it never stops until you let off the throttle. Do a spark plug check and adjust off of that. After that you should be good. If you bog down then drop down a size or two on the main jet.

What do you mean by "sandwiched it as hard as you could"?

Most people dog on Trinity Racing but check them out. They get their cables through Terrycable. I have those and I love them. Give them a call or check them on their website. It is worth a try.

Did you break it in? If you didn't yet then you should expect it until the engine is fully broken in. Once it is broken in then you will have to adjust your jets to your compression. You my have a good spark plug reading but if it bogs then you should probably go down a couple sizes on the main jet. I had that problem too but once I boosted the compression a little after a rebuild it ran perfectly! Keep in mind when it is not broken in it will have lower compression than when it is broken in. I did the readings with a compression gauge when I did a rebuild.

Never tried a hydraulic clutch. First of all you should check the case and the perch (the part that holds the clutch cable). There is an arrow on both the case and the perch and make sure that they are aligned. If they are it sounds like the adjustment on the inner hub on the clutch system is out of adjustment. There is a screw on the inner hub that adjusts the clutch as well. Fully screw in the clutch cable adjustment screw on the lever assembly. You will have to remove the clutch cover and adjust the screw on the inner hub. Adjust the screw until the arrows line up on the perch and case. Then adjust the clutch lever assembly screws to where you have very little play in the clutch lever. Or you could keep it tight but that is by preference.

Are you trying to put a R6 shock on a 'shee? Why the fuck would you do that?

Ok so you want more power from the intake? :biggrin: Remove the airbox and get an external airfilter setup. You will have to check your main jets and get a set for the brand of carbs you have. I would recommend 1-2 sizes bigger. The more air you get the more lean it will run. After that your should run the shee through the gears and do a spark plug check. When you check the plug you should check the rim of the spark plug. NOT THE PORCELAIN. You want an even tan color. A white color will mean it is too lean and a black color will mean it is too rich. The rim will be wet from time to time so don't be too alarmed from that. Keep in mind 2-strokes are different than 4-strokes. The better the mixture the more hp you get. You can also add some addons like some reed cages and some reed spacers for the intake mods. What else does it have for engine mods? And how do you want to ride it?

I"m setting the thread up to tell everyone not to waste their money on the CRJ temp gauge. At least not until they fix the problem. Every time I would start up my 'shee the display would shut off after 140 degrees Fahrenheit and wouldn't turn back on for about another 24 hours. I held it in my hand thinking it was a vibration issue and still the same thing happened. This is the third gauge they sent me. What other companies out there make a good one? I heard Trailtech makes a good one.

Does anybody have any problems with the rear brake pedal digging into the clutch cover? It digs on mine and if I loosen it it wont have enough pressure to the caliper. I rebuilt the master cylinder and it got a little better but it still seems to be a problem. I have a steel braided brake line and has no leaks. There has to be something I'm totally fuckin' up on. I could use some help here.

I run sunoco 110 for $6 a gallon in Illinois. 114 for about $6.25

Ok I figured it out. I had a detonation problem in the left cylinder and the spark plug was loose. So I figure that since some outside air was leaking in through th spark plug hole it caused the cylinder to burn too lean. The end result. My left crank rod melted. So I think I might just get a +4 stroker now.

I do some trail riding and some open riding. My friends and I like to race each other and have our own mini hare scrambles. I'm not into drag racing though. This time I think I will go for some porting also. Who should I go through to get a good port job?

Ok I was riding the old 'shee around the farm and it was running great for about 2 hours. Then I went down the road in 6th gear for about 20 minutes and all of a sudden I heard a loud exhaust noise from the right pipe so I pulled the clutch to stop. I'm lucky I didn't get thrown off! The engine died immediately. I tried to kick it over and the damn thing is seized up. I seized the engine before but that was the crank which, in that situation, the engine ran really rough and then gradually died. Ok this is the first time something like this has happened to me so here go the questions. 1. Does it sound like a piston seized up or the crank? 2. It's bored .50 over so am I going to need new sleeves put in or would it be better to get the cheetah cub kit? 3. If the piston is seized up then how do I get it out? 4. How could this happen? The carb was set right with the air/fuel mixture. I run half 93 and 110 octane fuel. I put Engine Ice in the cooling system. Could it be too many rpms for too long? List of engine mods. Pro-Circuit Platinum pipes, Pro-Circuit 304 silencers, Trinity Stage IV Head w/19cc domes (180lbs of compression), Hot Rodz Crank, Half inch reed spacers, Vforce 3 reed cages, Trinity Stage IV CV 33mm Carb, external K&N air filter with outwear, Dyna FS CDI, Megaflo Impeller, CV4 hoses, PWR radiator, Hinson 8 plate clutch system, Trinity smooth shifting cam. The last time it was rebuilt was a long time ago. I hardly got a chance to ride it because I was in the military for 5 years. I am really getting frustrated with this quad. Anyones help would be greatly appreciated.

This weekend totally flopped and got flooded out. Anyone up for a ride at the Badlands in Attica June 14th or 15th?

My rear brake feels really spongy. It bottoms out easily but still has some pressure. If I adjust the master cylinder then the lever goes up to the crank case. I bled out the system and there seems to be no leaks. Could there still be an air bubble in the line or does the master cylinder need to be rebuilt? Where can I get a rebuild kit?

I was wondering if there are any good aftermarket flywheels. Any that are modified. If they are worth the money.

I got the Trinity CV 33mm 2 in 1 kit and I absolutely love it! V-force reed setup is good. If I were you I would add some reed spacers. Those have really helped with the low end. A really good thing to get is a Stage IV head. But first is first. Make it home so you can ride the shee.

Yeah Saturdays seem to be more available for people. June 7th it is. If alot of people want to come out to ride then I will be there both days.

I missed out on the Memorial day ride. I was wondering if any yall want to ride on June 8th?

I had the exact same problem before except my shee is 1987. My stator coil went bad on me which it shouldn't go bad already with a 2005. You might want to try getting a multi use voltmeter. The one that also measures amps and ohms. Get your hands on a Clymer manual and start checking the electrical system. It is a pain in the ass but it helped me with finding my problem.

I just bought a new EBC clutch kit and it doesn't include cushion rings. It has everything but cushion rings. The stock clutch had them on there but one of them broke and I don't know if I am supposed to put any cushion rings in the new EBC kit. The clutch plates in the EBC kit are thicker than stock but you can snuggly fit a cushion ring inside the plate. On the stock clutch the cushion rings are loose. I am totally confused about this.

I have pro circuits and I can outrun any 'shee that has fmf pipes. I get good low and mid range power but I can feel more high end power out of those. Another thing is that pro circuits are way louder than any 'shee pipe i have ever heard. I have to wear a helmet or I am deaf just after running it down the road. If you want low end power my friends tell me that Gnarleys are the way to go. Anybody ever try out the Trinity Stage IV pipes?

With the setup that I have I am going to have to use at least half 110 and half 93 octane fuel. Is it okay to use 114 octane fuel other than 110? Is it okay to use leaded instead of unleaded?