Misssppelllleddd

hahahahahaha

I have a Dynatek FS Programmable ignition module and I was wondering if you can still put a timing plate on with it. Or would it be irrelevant to have one? Also has anyone tried a programming kit for one of these? The link for the programming kit is here. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/a...ogramming_kits/ And has anyone tried the Dynatek coils? These are about $130 and I wonder if they are worth the money. The link for the coil is here. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/products/atvs/coil_kits/

There are a ton of posts on here about Ricky Stator being junk. I won't ever get one.

I have an 08 VW Passat 3.6. What kind of mods can you do to increase fuel efficiency? Just curious. :geek:

Ok see ya at your house friday night. Is anyone gonna be at big rock all weekend? I'm not going home until Sunday afternoon or evening.

I will be coming through ky on rt 9 going south.

A single carb would give a little more low end and that is what I run on my bike. I have a 4mil, .50 over stock, aggressive trail port, 19cc domes (pushing 205lbs of compression), Vf3 reeds, reed spacers, and a 2-1 intake with 33PWK, K&N pod, and Pro-Circuit pipes for my top end and intake mods. But with the compression I don't get much high end but alot of low end. My bike is mostly set up for MX and trails though. I'm not sure if they make a 38PWK 2-1 setup but I know they go up to a 35PWK. If you do go with a 2-1 setup I don't think you will need any bigger than a 35PWK and you could probably use a 33PWK. I don't run a dune bike but from what I've learned on here is that most dune ports are for more top end so a 2-1 probably wouldn't benefit you much for top end but a little for low end. People may try to tell you that a 2-1 carb setup is/isn't for your bike but ultimately it is up to you and you choose what you want and what suits your riding style. There is a post on here stating the pro's and con's of a 2-1 setup.

That sounds great! I'm definitely up for that! Good idea and thanks

I was wondering if anyone had a chart or a website stating what offsets mean. I have no idea what 3+5 or 4+1 or anything of that matter means. I was looking at getting a set of Hiper CF1 or CF1R rims but there are a variety of offsets and I'm not exactly sure which ones I want.

less than a week away! I will be ariving there friday night and probably sleep in the truck. anyone watching the forecast?

count me in too!

I was working on the linkage for my 'shee and I looked up the the torque spec for the linkage bolts and it says 82ft lbs for the shock and two other bolts and 76 (or something high like that) for the linkage bolt that goes to the frame. Now it seems a little too much for these bolts but I tried to tighten one that much anyways and stripped the threads on the bolt and ended up having to cut off the nut to get the bolt out. Is this torque spec right?

I will be staying out there. Gonna sleep in the back of the truck again! :biggrin: Hell if you guys have the parts just bring your 'shees out and I will put them together. I like working on them. :cool:

Pro-circuits It came with the carb from Trinity. Accidently deleted my sig trying to update it.

I am around 500ft about sea level and have the Trinity Stage IV 2-1 setup. With all my mods in my sig, I'm running a little rich with a EEK needle (clip on 2nd from the top) and a 185 main. I should probably back down to a 180. I would say 195 is too rich for your setup but play with it a little. Once you get the right needle then try going lower and do some plug chops.

X2. Just don't do something stupid like I did. Last summer I was running and blew the engine because of WOT for 20 minutes. I'm surprised it lasted that long. Just melted the crank is all.

My '87 stator looked like shit too before it went out about 6 years ago. So the stock stators are pretty tough. But if one of the coils is lose then I would bite the bullet and get a new one. It would really suck if you got stranded far from parking lot at a park with a good day to ride. But thats just me.

For all my parts that go in the crankcase, tranny, or bearings/bushings, I usually use some premix gas to clean those parts. I take a clean oil pan and put some premix in it and then put the parts in there to soak. I use a brush to scrub away the old oil and residue off of the parts. Then use rags to dry them off. That way you know they won't rust because they will have a thin layer of oil on them already. I had a crank sitting on the shop floor for a month and not one speckle of rust and I live in the midwest where it is humid. Don't put seals in the gas though. That will dry them out and make them crack. Just a thought. Carb cleaner and contact cleaner work just fine to clean but will leave your parts dry and can rust.

I ran 7's one time and the trottle got stuck so I tried to turn off the engine and it wouldn't turn off! I tried the tether switch, key, and thumbswitch and it just sat there for a moment running on it's own! I had to put it in higher gear to kill it. Watch out for 7's! Hahahahaha!

Cant wait to see it!

X2. The only person at Trinity that knows what he is talking about is James. He is the only person I trust at that shop. When I asked about some new domes for my head, one guy told me I needed whole new cylinders and a whole bunch of other crap but then I requested I could talk to the manager and I spoke to James. They can be hard to deal with but if you talk to them enough then you can get what you want without having to pay too much money for the product. Like they wanted $270 for a set of domes for my Trinity Stage IV head because they don't keep 4-mil domes in stock. I can get a whole new head and domes for less! I talked to them about it and it cost me $65 for each. Then they sent me a set of bad o-rings and sent me a new set for free. All I had to pay for was the overnight shipping because I needed them that weekend. They should have probably paid for the shipping still. But as far as anything else goes....anymore products, other than the ones I already have from Trinity, will not be bought from Trinity. I will only buy from them as a last resort. Their products and work seem way too overpriced for what they really are. (i.e. porting, heads, headwork, carb kits, etc.) I used to buy from them all the time and they used to have a remarkable reputation a long time ago.....but they seemed to have slipped away from that over time. :ermm: Like a company that has gone from quality to just quantity.

that and they make your engine run cooler. a cool head is also a good thing to get if you want to change your crank to a stroker too because all you have to get is a new set of domes and pistons for a 4-mil crank. they come with o-rings too, so no more head gasket. the o-rings can be a pain in the ass but its really no big deal. i would say go with a cool head. don't go with trinity though because if you want to change to a stroker crank someday, then you will have to shell out more money for a new set of domes than if you buy a cool head. i managed to talk them down to matching the price but it took me forever to get the deal i wanted.

Since this thread has be dead for the past few days we should probably make a list and keep an update on who is all going. 1. Misssppelllleddd 2. 3. 4. 5.

Would it be too long? The figure 8's here are in mud and are fairly short. My friend just told me that a Ford Pinto would be really good. It would be a tank pretty much but I'm not sure if I can find one of those around.

Is it really chrome on Pro-Circuit Platinum pipes though? I really can't tell!