Misssppelllleddd

I ran a 1980's Ford Escort GL in the 4 cylinder figure 8 demo derby last year. It seemed to run really well but it couldn't take hits very well. I even put spray foam in the front fenders. All it took was just one hit on my right front fender to put me out of the race. I was just wondering what kind of car should I look for to run this year and I want it to last at least a couple races. I know it really matters on how well I drive but I want a car that can be beaten up and still run. Preferably a rear wheeled drive car.

Whats a good way to clean Pro-Circuit Platinum pipes? Mine are old and either they need to be re-dipped or really scrubbed down. They have a few burn marks from my mx boots and some speckles for rust here and there. I don't think they are chrome so would steel wool work?

I second that!

I have a rear works shock and personally I don't like it. I should have gone with Elka like the front set I have. I just didn't have the money at the time. I haven't met many people who were too impressed with any works shocks. They can be better than stock though.

Wow! Sounds almost like the customer service at Trinity! Though I'm not sure which one is worse. When I forgot about the order I placed 4 months before I remembered, I called them and asked them about it and it took them about 15 minutes to find it. But oh well, businesses are like buying new parts...most of the time you find good ones but sometimes you get a bad one.

maybe a roundhouse swinger (lighter, more durable, and shorter than stock). better axle with a +2 +1 front suspension with more adjustment. get some good rims so they won't bend. Not sure on any racing frames/framework. I know LSR has an aftermarket frame but I don't know how good it is. :shrug: They are expensive too!

sorry to hear about that bro. i was in iraq myself and there were alot of guys getting a divorce when they went home for r&r block leave. did you call your dad and have him take the 'shee home with him? i hope you didn't give her the power of attorney... :ermm:

There were a few posts a while back with talk about the conversion and welds giving out. But I stand corrected! An experience welder can make the welds stong. And yes, like I said, the stock j-arms are weak but aftermarket are much stronger than stock. But thats my personal experience with the suspension I have. Do you have a good close up pic of the 3 a-arm conversion?

I have a Moose billet clutch basket for sale if you want it.

Okay....you can add a 4-mil crank with an aggressive trail port (because you want to trail ride) or dune port (for even more power). V-force 3 reeds are more of a high-end reed. I think Boyesen makes a set of reeds for more low end. As for dome sizes....I would say a set of 22cc or 21cc. You can get away with 20cc or even 19cc domes if you time it right with a timing plate (at +4 or so) or you will be pushing it to have to run 110. Port work usually matches the pipes AND the style of riding you do. A good high end pipe would be a set of T-5's or DMC's. A good low end pipe would be to stick with the fatty's or go with Pro-Circuits. If you don't want to go in the mud too much then go with a k&n pod. For low end you can get a 2 in 1 carb or for high end you can get some 33pwk's I think. I think that would help alot.

Yeah it has! After I changed the front suspension, I've cased/overshot many doubles on the mx tracks and not one slight bend in the new j-arm setup. I have really beat the hell out of my suspension since I've gotten it. The old j-arms would have bent as soon as I would have done anything too strenuous to the front end (i.e. cased, overshot, or jumped too high). And as for the 87 being the best. I don't know about that but I know that they are among the lightest (if not the lightest Banshee setup overall). The frame is pretty much stipped bare compared to the newer style ones and all vital parts are still strong. There are some other parts (i.e. brake light mechanism, heel guards, etc.) that are exempt from stock. I am very impressed on how well these new j-arms and j-arm mounts have held up. Consider this as an option even though upper a-arms would ultimately be stronger. People have looked down upon the stock j-arm suspension because it is weak, but aftermarket suspension setups are pretty good and hold up really well. I bought the "V" arm +2 +1 suspension from lonestar at the same price as +2 +1 a-arm suspension. I'm not sure if their prices have changed much though. Check lsr out. The only add-on that you will need is 2 87 Warrior upper arm ball joints which run for about $75 a piece and make sure you use green locktite on the ball joints. I made the mistake of thinking they were tight enough and one came lose and was ruined.

Well I just went with Lonestar for the "V" arm suspension. You can see it in my pics. Honestly it holds up really well and I am very impressed with it compared to the stock j-arms. Much more durable! So I still have an 87 frame. Check out ebay or check out the "for sale" or "wanted" forums on this site. Someone could surely hook you up!

you can cut the bracket to the j-arm and re-weld it to the frame but that can be risky of a weak weld. other than that you can buy a new frame which i would recommend. just get one from someone who is parting a banshee out. but if you are looking for aftermarket suspension, some places make a nice +2 +1 j-arm setup.

Dominator synthetic oil is fine. You can use that 80w oil for your tranny but alot of guys will use ATF instead because it is cheaper. The only downside to ATF is that you will have to change your oil more offten. Personally I use 80w oil for my tranny and change it out every 20 hours of riding. And yes "separately lubricated motorcycle clutches" would be a wet clutch.

The game is really fun once you get the controls down! Learning the controls can be a bitch though! :biggrin:

Did you soak the fibers in oil before you installed them?

^^^^I stand corrected. The only reviews on Barnett, that I have heard, were put on 400's and 450's. One of my friends had a Barnett clutch in his Z400 and it went out on him within 20 hours due to faulty fibers but he called up Barnett and they replaced it for him free of charge. I'm not sure how he managed to do that nor am I familiar with Barnetts warranty but he said the customer service was excellent. And Barnett doesn't just specialize in making clutches for quad's and bikes. They make them for alot of vehicles. And I have never heard of Barnett clutches glazing nor have I heard of the springs losing tension fast. But thats just me. But anyways as for faulty parts go, not all products are made exactly perfect every time. There has to be a black sheep in the line of products somewhere and it matters who will get the bad one and who won't. Just because you have seen one go bad doesn't mean that they all do. I mean, I've snapped a brand new durablue axel with less than 10 hours of riding and I could see the impurity in the steel at the break. They replaced it and I never had a problem since. And I am not calling anyone out or pointing fingers at anyone.

When you take the head off, take a new razor blade and flashlight and lightly skim the top of your cylinders with the flashlight behind it. If you see any noticable light underneath the blade then you will either have to get your cylinders redecked or you can use JB weld and fill in the gaps. Do the same thing with the head as well. I had that problem once and I used JB weld and it fixed it right up! :thumbsup:

Does it get worse when you open the throttle more than 1/4? I've never heard of any sound like that!

Thanks man!

Barnett is one of the best if not the best. They are pretty expensive though. Maybe go with Hinson. Hinson is very good as well. :thumbsup: And I agree with snop.....you get what you pay for and clutch parts shouldn't be taken lightly when it comes to quality.

where can you get disc brake locks that have an alarm on them?

Wildcard! 100% I'm absolutely astonished with the power I got from his 4mil port job. I got more power than I really had hoped for. :cool:

From the exhaust?

Very true but I've burned out my rings from using fuel with 10% ethanol added to it. At least thats what I think did it.