Misssppelllleddd

My banshee has a +4 stroker crank and I am running with 19cc domes which my last compression test gave a reading of around 210 lbs of compression. My cylinders are bored at 64.50mm. I run at least 110 octane fuel. I'm around 800ft above sea level. I don't use a timing plate but I do have a Dynatek FS CDI unit on timing curve 3. I have no problems with detonation either. I originally had my 'shee set for 185 lbs of compression but for some reason my compression increased to 210 after break in. 210 is pretty high but the 'shee is pretty damn snappy with the low end. Maybe this will help.

I know you can search many topics on this site and many can answer your problem. What size of carbs do you have? Make sure the pilots aren't clogged, have a clean filter, and your plugs aren't fouled out. I would suggest doing some plug chops too. If the engine is left at idle does it have a tendency to slow down and die? If so I would adjust the air screws a 1/4 turn at a time and let it idle for a while for the engine to adjust.

hahahahahaha

Oh shit! I forgot my crops might be ready for pickin'. We got a late start this spring. I will still try to make it for sure!

Hell yeah I'm in!

Fuck no! We were too busy roostin' up the new track. I think they said it was 8 miles per lap.

Yall missed out! Very nice weather and very fun to ride the track! So is everyone still going next weekend?

i will dig through and see what parts i got. i plan on being lined up at the gate around 8:30. c-ya tomorrow And if you see me then flag me down. My 'shee is red and white with BansheeHQ on both sides.

But wouldn't more tire add more weight than a little more aluminum?

I think it would be the 20" tire on a 10" rim if you use aluminum or carbon fiber rims.

I think the dates are still good. I'm still planning on being there.

yes

I always warmed up the engine for about 10 minutes and then used a compression guage.

Ok I have confirmed a huge compression jump. And to all who have told me that it is not possible to jump up compression alot just after a break in....well....my Banshee proves otherwise. First at break in I did a compression test on my 'shee and it was pushing 185 lbs each cylinder. After break in I did another compression test and I started pushing 205 lbs of compression. I tried other comprresion guages such as Snap On and Accuguage and they both gave the same reading. After riding throughout the summer so far, I did another compression test today and now I'm pushing 220 lbs of compression. I just checked it with a brand new Craftsman compression guage and confirmed it with a Snap On and Accuguage. Now the question is this.....how the hell is this possible? How can it jump up 20 lbs of compression after a break in and 15 more after riding through the summer? :geek: My engine mods are: 4mil crank, Aggressive trail port (wildcard), Trinity head with 19cc domes, 795 series pistions, VF3 reeds, 1/4 inch reed spacers, Pro-Circuit Pipes, Trinity Stage IV 2 in 1 carb (33mm PWK),

Ok thanks! But why would one piston burn out and not the other? Both cylinders are running off the same carb.

Ok I was just riding through some open trails and then all off a sudden my right cylinder stopped firing. One cylinder would hold up for riding back to camp and I heard no backfires from the exhaust when I was revving or slowing down. But the thing that gets me is that the right cylinder stops firing at mid to high range. It idles just fine and runs like a champ going through low end but when mid range comes in then the cylinder won't fire at all. The engine/intake/exhaust/electrical mods I run are, 4mil long rod, 795 series pistons, Wildcard Aggressive Trail Port, VF3 reeds, 1/4 reed spacers, 2 in 1 intake with a 33mm PWK, Filter pod, Trinity head, 19cc domes (205lbs of compression), Pro-circuit platinum pipes, and a dynatek fs ignition. Any suggestions? Spark plug boots? Coil?

Count me in. I am not going to bring a grill again. I will think of something else. I'm not sure if I'm gonna stay out both days either.

kick ass! :thumbsup:

let me look it up and i will get back to ya on that. i know i've seen it on the microfiche somewhere. :geek:

yup. and if you have a low serial/vin number then keep it and keep all original parts if you still have them! I can't remember off the top of my head but somewhere around serial number 2GU-00010500 and below have a rare and superseded part in them. Same thing with some other parts too. I saw them on a 1987 Banshee microfiche. I still have all original parts for my shee. So if I buy another one then all I have to do is transfer parts and make it 1987 original again. My old bottom end is sitting in a box somewhere so I don't have to worry about tearing up the old engine. So keep it!

A spindle like showed in the pictures for the helicoil instruction and only used one in that. Then it was a cylinder stud for a friend of mine and put two in that. And then it was a stud that was stripped out on a crankcase and used one in that. Helicoils work man. They aren't very hard to put in either. Just make sure you pay attention to what size drill bit you need. It says what size you need on the tap.

I did and a helicoil worked great. I used two of them. :cool:

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96059 the helicoil tap will tell you what size drill bit to use. the helicoils are bigger than the original hole but will have the same inner circumference and threads will be where you need to be. you can go to and automotive store with the new stud and they can help match your stud with the right helicoil. just use the link for instructions on how to. there are pictures too.

buy a head stud. drill it out and helicoil it :cool:

golden spectro 40:1 and golden spectro 80w wet clutch oil. sometimes i use maxima wet clutch oil but it is more expensive.