Building my First

80w! Thats is some thick shit. Stock calls for 10/30. I run 10/40. Did it get slower and feel like there was something holing it back in the higher gears? Hell I've seen someguys talking about using ATF. They said it worked good, you just have to change it more often. What kind of 2 stroke oil do you use? Your not burning any coolant are you?

You measure center to center, lugs directly across from one another. 87-88 115mm, 89-90 156mm, & 91- up back to 115mm. If I remember right thats what they were stock.

Dibbs on the heal guards. Sending PM now.

He sent me a private message when he made this post. He says he is going to refund the $50 when he can, and offered me any of the items. I don't have a need for any of this stuff, I sent him a list of things I could use. I should have mentioned a good flywheel! I will let you guys know if he keeps his word.

Stock stroke rod is 110 mm.

How much port are you doing? Just cleaning things up or opening the tranfers and exhaust?

I'm building the same engine damn near. Waiting for the cylinders to get back from porting. My port guy is telling me the main is going to be somewhwere around 350-360, I don't know about a long rod stroker though. You could run some 30mm PWK's for sure. I don't think the Pro Circuits could take much more, you need some CPI inframes. Buy two pairs, I'll take a set too! 2000 Banshee Full Range Port by Hi-Tech Horsepower Wiseco Pro Lites .010 over Stock 54mm stroke Cool Head w/ 19cc domes Pro Design Impeller Pro Design Adj. Timing Plate +3 Pro Circuit Platinum Exhaust Durablue +2 Shift Star Mod Tors Eliminated Parking Brake Eliminated Works Dual Rate up front Maxxis RAZR's all around Changes for 2010 CPI Inframes 35mm PWK's Aftermarket A-Arms All the billet & carbon fiber shit I can get my hands on

I have a ste. Ball joints feel good, the right has a dent you can see on the photo. They must be nickel plated, it's too dull to be chrome, they are in good shape beside the dent. They came with a bunch of stuff I bought. $60 Shipped to the lowere 48. <a href="http://s636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/aj_pressley62/?action=view&current=101_1146.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/aj_pressley62/101_1146.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/aj_pressley62/?action=view&current=101_1145.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/aj_pressley62/101_1145.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

It really depends on the oil. Cheap shit would run no leaner than 32:1(4 oz. per Gallon). You can go leaner with good oil, I run Klotz @ 40:1 (3.2 oz. per Gallon). It works out good, 16oz. with 5 gal. of fuel. It has just a puff of smoke when you rev. I wouldn't feel safe running any leaner than that, no matter what kind of gaurantee anyone makes. It is proven the more oil the more horsepower due to less friction, all the way down to 16:1 but you risk the chance of oil fouling the plugs, plus it would be a smokey SOB!

Here are some better pics. http://s636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/aj...?albumview=grid

$175 Shipped I got these on ebay, they were supposed to be 35's! I don't have a need for these, 30 would be best but I would take some 33's. 35's are a little too big for the type of riding I do. These are in great shape. They are off a 700cc snowmobile so you will have to rejet, the throttle cable might work with a stock thumb throttle, I have never tried. Comes with everything as pictured. I will include some UNI Pod filters for additional $25. Paypal ID is [email protected]

$275 Shipped is the best I can do. I have listed them on ebay but they are still for sale locally. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...8&viewitem=

If every thing else is right. How many times have you had those plugs out? I had the same problem last year with my first build, everything was stock. I had the plugs out lots of times just nervous and makeing sure jetting was right. It was my first build and I did everything myself. Anyways the plugs kept getting loose after it was broke in, I guess the crush ring wasn't locking any more. I put new plugs in and never had the problem again, I guess you can only torque them down so many times.

$300 Shipped. I need to get rid of these, I need .010 over pistons to finish my engine.

Come on somebody send me an offer.

They are used but have no wear according to my boring guy. I bought an engine that wasn't even broke in yet. Is supposed to only have 4 hours on them, was built as an extra drag motor. They were breaking it in out in the woods, was too much too handle and they got a tree coming around a corner. They have just enough very light scuff marks that you can tell they were ran. The reason they have virtually no wear is the cylinders should have been bored when they rebuilt the engine. The cylinders showed .006 wear, so the pistons weren't that tight. They are like new, good deal if you have some good stock bore cylinders. Includes: Wiseco HP 64.00mm Pistons Rings Wrist Pins Pin Bearings Circlips $100 Shipped in the lower 48. Worldwide for actual cost. My pictures are too damn big to upload. Click the ebay link to check them out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_ATV-Parts-...A1%7C240%3A1318

I know its asking alot but I would trade for some decent CPI Inframes.

I don't need these. Have never used them. They have a few small dings other than that they are in very good shape. $350 shipped, in the lower 48. Will ship anywhere in the world for actual cost. I can't upload the pictures so you'll have to click on the Craigslist link. Nevermind the salesmen bullshit. http://swmi.craigslist.org/rvs/1066001625.html Call Aaron @ 269-201-7058 or [email protected]

Throw the bottle away. Get your self some new carb boots and a stock crossover tube. You are just going to melt your pistons trying to run it with airleaks.

A brand new bottle of oil should last forever. Even if it was opened it should be fine for a very long time, as long as it isn't left open collecting dust and moisture. Speaking of Golden Spectro, I have 8 (12 oz.) bottles I'll let go for $50 shipped. I bought a whole case then got introduced to Klotz and I love the smell so thats all I use now.

It sounds like an airbox would be a good idea for you. Or maybe a Toomey 2-1? I got a stock airbox with lid no snorkel, pro design filter or k&n. Give me a call if you want something 269-201-7058

Yeayou can tell it had light prybar marks on the back. Not a big deal, I know that area is soft. The other picture looked fine, if he would have turned it so you could see the other pulse coil tab, I wouldn't have sent the money. The other tab, half of it is smashed flat and there is a good size flat spot, got hit at least 3 times in the same spot. I just assumed it was common sence that the only tool made to remove flywheels is a flywheel puller!

It's used. Was removed by cavemen, only tools they had was a sledge hammer and a prybar. Anybody want it for what I paid for it? $50 shipped.

I needed a flywheel, you could tell someone had pryed a little on the back side in the pictures. I wouldn't have cared about that I know that area is a little soft. I get it and it has flat spots from being hammered on, one of the tabs for the pulse coil is half flattened. A flywheel puller is like $12 and is so easy to use I can't believe anyone would beat one off with a damn hammer. He says he doesn't have the money to refund me and says he bought it from NYUK, I hope he gave it to him. I asked for a refund through Paypal and he escalated it to a claim. Paypal don't give a shit it wasn't as described, they only care that I actually recieved the paper weight. Now I'm out $50. I don't want to use it. I have heard stories about them coming apart, I don't want to really take a chance, the engine I'm putting together is going to be mid 60 horse.