Building my First

I have cases that are still usable, has crack below chain did not crack the gearbox, did not leak oil. Would take $60 shipped to lower 48.

Same cable as the Honda CR Dirtbike.

Would you sell just the new foam, shipped to 49038?

You have the 4 bolt sprocket hub, right?

I think on th 87-88 stock gearing was 13/42, they had 22" tires on the back.

I know he has decent prices but the products are not high quality. I got an adjustable timing plate for my 88 last year. I had it set at zero, the stock one was cracked so I got the adjustable cause I planned on putting some mods on it. Anyways it had alot of vibration at idle, I just figured thats how it was, it was my first Banshee. I sold the 88 a month ago and had a oem plate from my new project. It was smooth as silk. The numbers were off by 1.5 degrees! The fucker had been running 1.5 degrees retarded for a whole year! It felt good just had vibration at idle.

I'm going black & white and I haven't found any that I like except this one.

I have a nice grab bar for the filters. I will get a pic up tomorrow.

I can see where atf would be great for the clutch, what about gear wear?

You should be able to snag that at a local shop.

Just port them if you insist on keeping them. I've heard alot of guys say that stock ported cages are the best. I never heard much about the rad valves, they do look like they could cause some turbulence or restriction.

Check your pm, let me know.

How much for one shipped to 49038? The HQ one.

I have a 2-1 with a 34mm PJ. Manifold is brand new never installed, PJ is dirty but in good shape. You would have to get the carb boot, it's $45 on ebay. Its a good idea to keep your stockers incase you don't like the 2-1 feel. $150 shipped http://s636.photobucket.com/albums/uu89/aj...nt=101_1148.jpg

x2

Hows that grab bar feel lifting it bare handed?

Blaster's are 100mm. The blaster hub will fit on the Banshee axle. Just do it by hand, try not to use an impact when installing the axle/hub nut. They are supposed to be pretty tight, around 80 ft. lbs.

There is a thread on here, in the last couple days. All they said was high temp. Water boils @ 212 so at least that.

You don't want regular or synthetic car oil, it has anti-friction modifiers added to it. They will cause clutch slippage over time. Look in you owners manual or repair manual. It suggest Yamaha R4 or 10/30 API SE, SF, or SG. The stuff I found is SF, $1.88 a quart, Accel 10/40, on the shelf at Walmart, the shit works great, no clutch issues and plenty of lube for the gears. I'd definatley suggest buying better 2 stroke oil. You could get away with damn near anything in your crank case, but running that cheap shit in the fuel is just going to cause more carbon build up and provide much less protection for the crank and cylinder wall. Run some Klotz Techniplate @ 32:1 or 40:1. I run 40:1. Half a quart with 5 gallons of fuel. Its $10 a quart. It will smoke just a little on start up and when she warms up it will puff just a little when you rev it. Klotz is good shit. Amsoil and Motul is real good too.

I don't remember a wire on the clutch perch. The only thing I can think of, maybe one of the wires is still making a connection. Did you cap them or use heat shrink? Here is a good guide. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...hl=tors+removal

Where did you find this guide?

I am kinda cheap but I always pony up for some good ol' Klotz. There is no excuse to run cheap ass pre-mix. To me thats the best thing you could do for your engine, keep good pre-mix runnin through her vains.

I'm not into spending $10 a quart. I found some old school 10/40 for pre 1988 vehicles. Its sae sf or sg, I can't remember, it doesn't have the friction modifiers so its good for the clutch. The Banshee owners manual actually calls for sf or sg. I tend to be hard on the clutch and after last season the fibers only had .002 of wear. Plus it's the cheapest price I've ever seen on oil $1.88 a quart @ Walmart.

I guess its possible the oil broke down over time. I know the fibers can swell over time. Check them with a micrometer, I just remembered a buddies Banshee did the same thing when he first got it. The fibers were swelled almost 1.5 times as thick as new specs!

Is the idle higher than when the tors was on? Richen the pilot screws an 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn, that should help. Make sure the choke tube is on good too.