gregrob

YES HE DOES! I'm really grateful to have his help. Actually, I wouldn't even be attempting this without him LOL!

Well, it has begun. Got the cyls pulled tonight. (actually bigred had them off before I even got home haha!) and they will be sent out tomorrow. Gathering the little knick knacks like reeds, clutch, pancake, shift pro, etc while the cyls are being ported and will be ready to drop the 4mil crank in and get her up and running soon. Wish us luck!

thanks for the opinions so far guys. Keep em coming...! Daj, loco. What you guys think

I've heard that even the hi temp stuff will melt and discolor right where the pipe comes out of the head. I'm no expert though.

Ok guys, I am planning to send my cylinders to Herr Jugs very soon. I have the mods in my sig and the bike runs great, starts good, has good power and moves me around pretty good in the dunes. (I'm a big guy pushing 300lbs). Since I wanted to take the next step and get porting, I figure since I'm already paying for porting, and already buying a piston kit, this would be the perfect time to do it.... Only the cost of the crank and domes is added. I'm just having trouble tearing down a perfectly good running bike to do this, but it is an 02 and could use a freshening up anyway I guess. Oh, and I have 3 weeks to do this, want it to be ready for memorial day. Kevin said he could turn my cyls around in 2 weeks so I'm going to get them sent out ASAP. Let me know what you guys would do. Just get porting? Go ahead for the 4mm? or, leave it alone and ride it?? Thanks, Greg

Easier to tune, and good for midrange throttle response, but hurts you on the top end. PWK is just a series of Keihin carbs. Instead of saying "get this, get that" I'm going to tell you to call Kevin Herr. The porting he does is custom for your riding style, weight, elevation, other mods, desired HP, budget, etc, etc. It will cost you around 600 bucks to pull your cylinders, put a new top end kit (O rings, gaskets and pistons) and a midrange port job. New carbs will run you 300ish. new intakes and filters figure another 100 or so. A set of T-5's new is 500ish, used you can find them a lot cheaper. Timing plate is cheap. Set your timing at +4 or 5. Then like daj said, you need suspension to put it to the ground. You can pick up a set of YFZ 450 shocks or used aftermarket for a couple hundred, and have your rear revalved by works, tcs, etc for your weight and riding style. Just giving you an idea, it's not cheap but you can do it one piece at a time. I'd recommend you start gathering the supporting mods now, and hold off on the port job until you need to do a top end rebuild, so you're not wasting a bore on good cylinders. Get a cool head with 19 or 20cc domes so you can stay on pump gas. That will raise your compression which can give huge gains. Within reason, compression and porting are the biggest things you can do for power. You can put the head, carbs, pipes, and everything now, and be all ready to go for porting....

And I helped you ghetto tape it together!!!! Maybe you got the wrong kind of panty hose lmao!!!! Sounds like your gonna get her back together and going strong again Jon. I will have an extra set of domes if you need them soon. They're 19cc, let me know....

Sorry I didn't respond sooner guys. I've got quite a few rides on the machine and the pipes still look great. The only discoloration is right where the pipe comes out of the head, and almost any finish will have some discoloration there because of the heat, even chrome. As far as covering up the rest of the bike I didn't worry about that. Just keep a wet rag handy and wipe off any overspray. It wasn't really that bad as I kept the spray to a localized area on the pipes and just painted them slowly. I got it on there without getting any on my plastics, etc. I did touch up my frame where the paint had been rubbed off, and painted my a arms with the same paint and it looks really good.

I'm interested in pics as well. Would like to see pics of the porting and the chip on the cyl.

I'm interested in these. Just wondering, why wouldn't the porting transfer over to a 4mil....? What domes are you running with these, and have you checked your compression lately? How many hours on them roughly? Thanks a lot,

I bought a set of front sand tires and wheels from Eric and the deal was great. Easy to communicate with, prompt shipping, and packaged well. Would definitely do business again. Thanks Eric, Greg

Get a set of Elka's, Works, TCS, etc and have them setup (valved and tuned) for your weight and riding style. Should be golden :thumbsup:

33's would be better IMO.

Lemme know what you got. New or used with low hours.

Well they don't make a 34mm PWK so I gues your stuck with PJ's if you really want 34's. PJ's are Keihin's first attempt at a 2 stroke carb as I understand it. Not bad but the circuitry, operation, and tuneability of the newer PWK's is better all around. I would go with 33PWK's over PJ's, and if you're really set on 34's pick up a set of Mikuni 34mm TM flat slides.

I am and will be running just filter pods, no airbox to speak of, though I intend to make a diamond plate version just to help with water splashing. I'll try 340's but I doubt at my elevation it will work. I think 300's will be rich, but I know what you mean about going up. Those carbs are gonna pull more air, so more fuel. Thanks for the reply.

No response eh?

Hey guys, I have some new carbs on the way. I'll probably try them out before I get porting etc. I'm running 270 mains in my stock carbs right now, what would the equivalent be for these new 34's? I'm at 6000ft elevation with the mods in my sig. Thanks a lot.

That's what I ended up doing. Probably gonna go with these graphics.

If you've never ridden a bike with either, what would give you that inclination? Just wondering. :ermm:

That's what I hear. :cool:

Did you hold the throttle wide open? Did you kick it until the needle stopped moving? You need to have the cylinders mic'd (measured with a very precise tool) when you take them apart. That will tell you if a stock bore size piston will be in spec or if you need to go bigger. More than likely you will need to bore it one size .020 over and get a .020 piston kit. Very little gain to be had from a small overbore. Some, but not a lot. Stroke is where it's at. New pistons and new bore with properly set tolerances will cure your low compression woes.

Maybe you have the parking brake on.

No but every piston you get (regardless of manufacturer) will have different tolerances beacuse nothing is "perfect". You take the cylinder to the machine shop so they can measure the bore (in mm) or measure it yourself and order a piston kit that fits. Then let them do the final bore based on what that piston actually measures. make sense?

Thanks Kiel. I'll put the clip all the way on the top notch and see if that clears it up. It's just blubbery right before the power comes on in the mid range. Usually when holding the throttle steady. If you gas it, it will clear up and the power will come on.