crustydemon

This is the first time I have had one and I like the fact that its hard to hit neutral, I dont need it to be easy to find I just dont want to have it pop into gear when its sitting there at idle. Like you said im sure its in my adjustment, Ill take a look at it.

I wont tie the two together buy eventually I want to run 2 sets of lights. All I have is the stockers right now and Id like to leave those on with higher wattage bulbs and then get some better ones to mount somewhere else. I want to find out what desert racers use, Hella or something?

Ok I'll check that later on today, Thats probably what it is. Thanks.

I just got my motor together and was doing an initial comp check, I put it in neutral and with the slightest bump of the bike it will drop into 1st on its own. Im assuming it due to the modded shift star, is this normal? Its also very hard to hit neutral without jumping two 2nd. All of the spring loaded stuff inside was good and tight.

Welcome to the HQ. Wiseco and Hotrods cranks are very good and that doesnt sound like too bad a price. $350 for a 01, Wish I could come across a deal like that.

Ok, I'll do that I dont like them to dim way out at low revs like they do now.

I never heard of a 5mm stroker.

So I can go up to 2- 50w bulbs using the yellow wire and 2- 75w bulbs by using the white wire? Could I use both wires at the same time if I want to run 2 sets of lights(each on there own circuit, not by tying the 2 together)?

Other

Set them in place on the cylinders and lightly scribe what would be the cylinder side with a small angled dental pick. I cut mine with the die grinder using a fine toothed cutter then make sure you debur them good and I put a little yahamabond on them before assembly.

I got a 250 watt Moose stator and I dont know what the extra white wire is for. Its got the normal black and yellow ones and then the white and of course no directions.

The old style would be good too but I dont know what stingers will work.All I have is one set if PC's and a set of Fat boys.

Helicoil them.

I want 2 good flywheels for cheap. And I mean cheap, PM me.

If anyone has any newer Rocket pipes they dont want anymore shoot me a PM.

You can either measure the center to center length of the big and small ends of the rods or measure from the piston pin hole to the top edge of the piston. On the long rod the pin will be 5mm higher than stock.

Yes that is safe to use but messy, a little wheel bearing grease would work to just dont use WD-40 or anything like that because believe it or not, the nuts can come loose. You really need to check your threads though because it shouldnt be an issue unless they have been on there forever.

Well I think I got it in right. Most of my problem was that I put a different perch on and the adjuster on that was alot shorter than the yamaha one so I put the longer one in and it seems to be ok. I still wish it was a little longer.My main concern is that I didnt know how tight against the pressure plate the bearings should be when the cluch is engaged. I set it so it is just barely touching it(like zero lash)but not be loose. Hope it works because its all buttoned up now.

I dont know if they have a beginner class but I think it was 2 stroke, 4 stroke by cc's in stock and modified classes. Problem is you can have a huge power difference between 2 bikes with the same cc if one guy is running big bore stock cylinders and the rest are running cubs or something. Regardless it will be expensive just to build a competitive bike and then maybe still not ever be good enough to win but i guess there is only one way to find out.

I meant the play or slack between the ball-bearing/adjuster-pressure plate.

It has nothing to do with the lever or play in the cable. It does align or adjust the arm to the arrow on the case. Make sure you have it installed right, they are wierd to adjust. You have to back off the jam nut and adjust the black screw in the middle till the arm aligns to the arrow. Then make sure you have an 1/8th of and inch of play in the cable on the handlebar clutch lever. If I turn the screw in till the arrow aligns there wont be any screw sticking out for the jam nut.

Come on damn it.

Its his money and if he wants to waste it why should anyone else care? I would say if your only planning on doing a few set than it is a waste of money but if you want to do it as a trade or lifelong hobby read as many books as you can, ask questions and hope for answers, and study some top builders port work,then try a set or ten for yourself. If you get really good and people are asking you for specs, dont tell them.

I highly recommend a long rod crank, the ladies just love mine.

Alright thats what I'll do. By the way I just installed the shift star I got from you today, fits good and should be some smooth shifting.