crustydemon

Good luck, nobody is going to give you any usable specs ,believe me I have tried. I guess I cant blame them, I wouldnt either, but it really isnt hard to figure out on your own if you really think it through and do your research, you might even get lucky and come across an old timer in your area that really knows his shit to learn from. I personally would rather destroy a few sets of jugs if I really learned from it than have someone else do my work.Knowledge and the proper tools is all you need. Heres a site that may help a little:http://www.dirtrider.net/ericgorr/eg_port1.html

That sounds like it will work. I dont know how good they run without the ports cut to take advantage of the extra stroke though? I think what you will want to do then is run a stock head with the top plate/headgasket instead of the plate under the jugs but Im not sure, someone else will have to answer that.I wouldnt even have anyone do the cleanup unless its the same guy that is going to port it for you just in case they take too much off the wrong spot,you probably wouldnt notice any gain anyway.

Honestly I think you would be better of waiting until you can do it all at once, the right way(4 mill long rod stroker,port job to match, and Noss head with stroker domes-No plate.)

As mentioned you will be good on the .080 over. As far as a long rod crank goes, it doesnt have anything to do with the spacer plate. You have to have the correct pistons for the long rod weather it is a stroker or stock stroke(pin location is moved up to compensate for the longer rod). I really dont know if there is anything terribly wrong with using the spacer plate other than it being another place for a possible air leak, I just would rather not use one but on the other hand if you do use one you can just use your stock head. Dont touch the ports if you dont have a 90 degree handpiece and know what you are doing, Its just not possible to do anything but wreck your jugs without one.(it costs about the same as a port job anyway).

You need to get the correct flywheel puller first. Remove the flywheel so you can get to the plate.

Its the durablue x-33 axle with the hubs that comes with it The hubs are slipped over the end of the axle and held on by a bolt running through the hub and axle(not splined).The hubs have a slit cut in them so they will squeeze tight against the shaft when torqued. Its an allen head bolt but the nut is recessed in the hub with no room around it. Anyway Im just going to make some nuts that will work.

Your not really gaining anything with what you have done and wont until you ditch the stock exhaust. Pipes and a rejet should have been your first move.

Probably got this in the wrong spot. There should be a forum called bullshit shit.

This is bullshit, cant hold the damn nuts to get the hubs torqued to the axle. There is no room for a wrench or a thin walled socket.What do I have to do,weld 2 nuts together so they stick out the top? Shouldnt have to run an endmill down the hub.

So you think you bought a 4 mill banshee? Pull the head off and see if the pistons comes up out of the jugs when at TDC(2 mill) or if there is a spacer plate between the bottom of the jugs and the case you know it is without pulling the head.

With that and a boost bottle you must have all of it.

Yep,I was looking at it again and thats what has too be done, theres no other way it'll work.

$65 for replacement petals every 12 hours is nuts for just riding but for racing motocross or something It would be ok if there was a substantial performance gain. I just want to know if there actually is.

Here's a stupid question, I got my first set of K and N pod filters and was just wondering if they make some type of bracket to support the back of the pods so they dont get knocked loose on a hard landing or is this not a problem?

I was trying to put one of these lowering blocks on last night because I thought it would be nice to be able to lower the rear to do a little ice racing this winter but I cant figure out how its suppose to work.It seems to be too tight against the swingarm and I can only get the bolt to go in the hole that would be one step lower than stock, It just seems like the angle is wrong. What did I do wrong and are these even worth messing with?

Just curious if anyone has compared the Pyramid to any of the other reed valves, It seems to be kind of a strange setup with the petals on the sides. All I ever hear about is the vforce and the rad valve.

A few years ago I was running platinums with 296's,I bent them up and got the 304's and honestly I didnt notice a difference on the stock setup.

Thank you.

Just going by those few mods I'd say your buddys bike would beat yours but there are many more variables that determine the outcome of a race than a bunch of bolt on crap.

Could someone tell me what the approximate transfer and exhaust port durations are on a stock non-ported jug. Just want them for comparison.

Thanks for the reply, I remember hearing about that now.

What exactly is the Amp link for and is it worth having? I remember seeing something about it on here a while ago but cant find it with the search.

Thanks for the help. I'll have to figure the comp ratio. I have no cranking compression anyway cause I have no domes (it dont squeeze too tight that way) What I meant by mainly running pump gas is that I do occasionally run race gas but only because that is what we may have on hand at the time, not for any performance gain. I want it set up for pump. Thanks again.

I need to get some stroker domes for my Noss head but dont know what cc I need. I got a 4 mill stroke with 66mm bore and I'm running 1300-1600 ft. Want to mainly run pump gas.

The scared feeling will wear off in a few hours of riding, then it wont be enough because its never enough. You'll see... It never ends.