crustydemon

I've got an used set of Pep shocks that I would like to use but have leaked down due to loose fittings. I dont know how they were set up so I would like to have them gone through. Im wondering where I would have to go to have them rebuilt or if I could get a kit for them and do it myself.

Thank you for all the help and advise. I will do more reading before I start cutting. Its just something that I am quite interested in and would like to get into. Four strokes just dont cut it for me anymore! Justin.

I totally agree with that and Im working on learning about it ( just started). I have devoted my whole life to studying 4 stroke engines and started out the same way as you guys did with the 2 strokes, with an old guy teaching you everything he knew and then taking some of that knowledge and expanding it with your own studies, whatever but I dont know anyone around where I live that knows anything about it to learn from. I dont have 500 sets of cylinders to cut up to find out what works nor do I want to but I do want to learn how to do it and do it right. Its not going to be a one time deal, I am afraid this is an addiction that Im not going to be able to shake.But for right now I just want to get it together so I can ride.

They won the Baja 1000, I'd say they are ok.

You can go 2.00mm for sure, I think even 1 more size over that.

I know ive got alot to learn, Thats why Im asking. I dont use a dremel and just wasnt sure about what had to be done. Ive got a couple good books on performance 2 strokes that im reading but they didnt really go into stroking.The cylinders that I was going to use already have a trinity pro mx port and if all I had to do was drop the floors I would do it myself,other than that I would send them out to get done.I just dont want to use a spacer plate. A dune port would be nice but anything with a good mid range punch with decent upper would be good.I got PT mids,Noss head but havent ordered the domes yet because I dont know if I want to run race gas,34mmPJs,dyna cdi,etc.(1500ft) You'll never learn anything if you always have someone else do it for you.

For that price if it runs at all it would be a good deal.

Be careful. Could be valve train problems which can be big time $$$.

I really need some help and I know I shouldnt be doing this myself but Im going to. I'm putting in a 4 mill long rod and do not want to use a plate and need to know a few things. As I understand it I need to lower the transfers and exhaust 2mm but do I need to raise them 2mm also?What about the intake and boost ports?I know the risks involved and the effects of transfer angles and port widths but just cant find any info on port heights for a stroker.Also is it a wise decision to assemble the engine and match up the main transfer and exhaust floors to the piston crown at bdc? I've also seen people say that if your cylinders have been ported for a stock stroke they may be ported too far for the 4 mill. How can this be when you got an extra 2mm of stroke each way?

Any good local machine shop should be more than capable of boring a 2 stroke cylinder but always ask them first.Some may not have a proper way to hold the cylinder if all they do is automobile engines.

Yeah thats good, Thank you. It sure beats paying a couple hundred bucks for the same thing.

With the mighty vac you can either use it as a vacuum pump or to pressurize. Is 6 min really enough?

I might just do that. I guess I could use my mighty vac pump. Thanks for the pics.

Does anyone besides Motion Pro make a good 2 stroke leakdown tester? Looking for a little cheaper one that comes with all the plugs.

I ride in snow alot and sand tires work pretty good but dont get straight paddles because you cant corner worth a shit. Your better off getting a real snow tire. Just leave your regular tires on the front.

You cant go wrong with a Paul turner mid range or a Pro Circuit Platinums. Good all around pipes IMO.

Here is link for break in from Duncan Racing. It may be a little excessive Duncan 2 stroke break in

Thank you.

Any help would be appreciated. I dont want anyones secret port dimensions,just some info on what the heights should measure so I can make sure its right. I would like to start putting it together tomorrow.Thank you.

I'll be looking to get one in a month or 2 but just cant swing it right now. Its a little far away for me,any idea on what it costs to ship one? Nice looking bike!!!

That would work good on the farm.

If I ever decide to buy another 4 poke I think I'll go for the yfz 450.Ive rode the hondas,suzuki, and a kawi and I liked the yfz the best overall but like everything it also has its issues.To me they just dont feel right, I like a higher bar and to sit a little lower in the seat. They also have a nasty dead spot weather its piped and jetted or not which I think is curable with some type of tps bypass plug.For some the fuel injection would be the way to go but I still like to have a carb.The raptor is just too big for me, It feels like I'm driving a car. I liked the Suzuki and the Kawi but was not at all impressed with the Hondas other than the fact that I thought they were somewhat comfortable.

Just do it in 5th. There is no need to do it in 6th but you need to let it wind out a little so dont do it in a lower gear because you wont get an accurate enough reading.

After reading many post I have decided to go with the Hotrods 4 mill long rod crank but I also was not going to do it without porting.I am on a somewhat limited budget and didnt have time to send my jugs in so I found a deal on a very slightly used crank and piston setup with Trinity pro MX ported jugs.First I would like to know why nobody likes the trinity port jobs and what should be done to make it better.This setup came with no bottom spacer plate and did come with a head spacer plate.Does this mean that they were probably ported for the 4 mill and just needs the top spacer for squish or not? Im not going to use it anyway because I got a noss head and will get stroker domes when I decide on the cc I want to go with.To do it properly should the port windows be raised and lowered 2 mm from stock so you dont have to use the base plate?I just want to compare them to stock cylinders to see how they differ and make sure everything is right before I assemble it.Ive also heard that the factory welds on the cranks are no good and they only weld the outside but on the crank that I got it is welded inside and out with 2 beads(tig) on each side(so 8 actual beads)and they look real good. I this something that someone else might have done or is it factory?Sorry for the same old questions but Im just trying to figure some stuff out. Ill have many more stupid questions soon.The search aint worth a shit.

I dont need any help with that.