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If I attached the file correctly it is a PDF from zeeltronic for how to wire the banshee "using" Zeeltronics system. I'm not an electrical genius but if you can read a road map you should be able to figure this out. Also, prices for the following is about $500 altogether. Only thing you need to do is replace stock regulator with RZ regulator/rectifier or any other universal single phase regulator/rectifier. You will also need condenser or better battery. Find attached wiring diagram for explanation. Prices: VCDI-04Q 108euro CDI-RZ1 66euro PPV-RZ 108euro handheld programmer 54euro shipping 15euro Oops, both files are the same. Only suppose to be one. RZbanshee_wiring_diagram_zeeltronic.pdf RZbanshee_wiring_diagram_zeeltronic.pdf

Carb will be feeding ported RZ cylinders. Still OK with a single 35mm?

I currently have a 2 into 1 with a 35mm PWK. Bought it like that and actually performs very well. Convenient to change jets also. Does anyone run a larger size carb with a 2 into 1, say 38-41mm instead of a dual 35mm setup. Or would the bottom of the carb hit the case? I'm kind of cramped for space in my project and dual carbs may interfere a bit more than I want.

Isn't that the truth. I laughed when i seen this topic but like someone else said, "What hobby isn't expensive?" I have too many to count and they all cost $$. My wife reminds me about it all the time :biggrin:

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcy/961330164.html Just thought I'd post it here. Probably just needs a top end rebuild and you'd be in business.

Making new mounts wouldn't be hard. But if there isn't much of a different between the shocks then I'll save myself the time and just put the YFZ shocks on.

I have an entire rolling chassis YFZ for a good price that I was going to put a motor in but after seeing what it would cost to do versus just buying a used YFZ already together, I'm going to swap the entire front end over to my Banshee. I have works tripple rates with rezzies on my banshee and wanted to know how they would compare to the stock YFZ shocks. If the works would be that much better I'll just use them and fabricate some different mounts so I don't lose any suspension height. Also, is the ride you get with the YFZ suspension any better than the Banshee? Those that "have" done the conversion, do you like it or would you rather have kept it stock? Thanks

Just thought I'd throw this out there since I see some say a price like this is a good deal. It's not mine. Just came acrossed it. Located near Grand Rapids, MI. http://grandrapids.craigslist.org/rvs/864309958.html

No, it's not getting a shee motor. I'm going to turn it into a nice, peppy trail bike. Then I'll turn my banshee into more of a duner.

Well, I went and picked it up. Besides not having the motor it didn't have the radiator or oil cooler and oil tank. Not sure if anything else is missing cause I didn't take it apart. The guy said that was it. All the wiring for lights, key, switches, etc is there but looks like there is no harness to plug them into so that may be another thing. The rear sub frame is tweaked a very little, nothing that I can't fix. The frame looks good. Turns correctly and everything else looks good. I offered him $450 and took it He said he had dozens of people call and never show up so he was surprised when I called him and was on his door step with an offer after just a few hours after talking to him. Another thanks to Craigslist.

Yea, kind of figured. It would be nice to have a nimble 4 poke for the trails. Figured I could find a motor and exhaust for around $1500 sometime. I'll see what else it is missing, if anything, when I look at it after work.

Not a Banshee but came across an entire rolling chassis and everything minus the motor for $500. Is it worth it?? I think so.

I got a set of RZ cylinders off ebay two weeks ago for mine for $170 shipped. With powervalves. They are suppose to still be on the first bore. Left cylinder has a small scrape but they'll be bored anyway. Not sure how good that price is but I had been watching them and never seen any that cheap. So I got them. The electronics can be had from Zeeltroinc at their website. They are located in the Uk (I think). Total cost in US dollars is about $550 for everything. Per my email response from them on what needs to be done: Only thing you need to do is replace stock regulator with RZ regulator/rectifier or any other universal single phase regulator/rectifier. You will also need condenser or better battery. Find attached wiring diagram for explanation. Prices: VCDI-04Q 108euro CDI-RZ1 66euro PPV-RZ 108euro handheld programmer 54euro shipping 15euro I have the wiring diagram.

I was planning on at least $1500, probably be much closer to $2K with everything. Sure I could go with a powervalved cheetah but was thinking the adjustable curves with the zeeltronic would be nice. Motor setup would be something like this: RZ cylinders ported 4mm crank and Wiseco pistons of course Cool head All zeeltronic system Boyseen carbon fiber reeds Dual 35mm PWK's with manifolds +2 or 4 swinger. Not sure yet. May need the +4. Maybe if your willing to help RZbanshee man I'll contact you after the new year if I follow through with it. I would think I should be able to get another 20HP more out of this setup than what I have now.

I've been tossing the idea around of some RZ cylinders. Right now with my mods I'm right even with my friends ported 4 mill, doesn't make him happy :biggrin: Don't know how much power I'm making but if I keep the stock stroke, do you think I'll notice a big enough difference to justify doing it?? I'd port the cylinders of course and add dual carbs.

Trail tech said this is a common issue with banshee's so I put foam in with the battery to hopefully keep it from vibrating. Didn't work. I keep procrastinating in sending it to trail tech. Just too lazy to box it up, take to P.O. I guess. First I've heard of the 9v battery thing though. Maybe I'll try that first. It seems more like a power issue rather than the vibration. Trail tech did tell me to send it to them because they have a different isolation design for the battery. Whatever.

I got a vapor to put on my shee and it worked fine the first few rides but it is now cutting out during high RPM's. Basically it's as if the internal battery was removed and then put back in. Everything lights up and resets. I've tried another new vapor unit also and it's doing the same thing. I called Trail Tech and was told that this is a common problem with Banshees and Raptors because of high vibration causing the battery to vibrate loose momentarily. So I put foam below the battery cap to help hold the battery tight and also put foam between the back of the vapor and aluminum mount(as instructed by Trail Tech). I took it down a stretch of paved road a few times and it cuts out right after I shift into 4th. I've tried to roll in the throttle and been hard in the throttle and it doesn't do it until I hit 4th. Just doesn't make sense to me. Sorry for the long post but figured if anyone could help they would need to know the whole situation. Thanks for any help.

M friend and I are planning to head over there the last weekend in June just to avoid the Holiday craziness. It would be the first time for the year and our 'shees. It would be nice to meet up with some fellow HQ'ers. Where do you guys normally stay/camp over there?

Yea, I kind of thought I smelt BS.

Reason I ask is because I was told by a known banshee builder (in my area) that 2nd gear launches will burn up a clutch fast. He said 1st should only be used. Also, when you guys are feathering your clutch to ride out wheelies, how long does your clutch hold before slipping? I did some riding a few weeks ago and was trying to practice on riding out wheelies but that pretty much ended my clutch. Any thoughts would be great. Thanks

My dad use to smoke. He quit about 15 years ago. Pretty much just cold turkey. That's really the only way I see someone being able to do it. Like it was stated, If you have just one more you'll have one more for the rest of your life. My brother in law died from second hand smoke at the age of 21. Kind of shocks people when I tell them, as if it never happens.

Check on the technical docs on the home page of HQ. There is a nice picture of one there.

I just got an engine gasket kit with all the needed gaskets. Is there a typical gasket thickness that comes in those kits? Such as .020". Where can I get the thinner base gasket? What's the difference in power between 130 psi and say 170psi?

Yup, kicking it over with throttle wide open about 25 times. After 10 kicks it pretty much tops out. The I got the domes with the Pro Design head. How do you change the squish with a cool head? I can see how you do it with a stock head and different gasket thickness but not with a coolhead. I'll be trying a different gauge tonight.

Here's the history of the bike. Bought it a couple months ago. Rode it a couple times before taking it completely apart for a frame up rebuild. I was told it had a trail port and a new top end and new crank with only a few hours on it. I confirmed this when I took the top end apart and could still see the hatch marks in the cylinder walls and the hot rodz crank in the bottom. Piston to wall clearance was well with in spec. I pulled off the cylinders to powder coat. Put it back together with a coolhead instead of the stocker. I put in 19cc domes and was expecting 160psi + (roughly 800ft elevation). I kicked it over 20 times and had about 135psi in the cylinders. Didn't seem right so I put in a new o-ring kit. Kicked it over and same reading. Started it up and let it run for a few minutes. Compression tested again and it was 130psi. I've checked the squish and it is .058" and .062". My next step was going to try a leak down test but I didn't see any leaks around the o-rings after running it the first time so thought there would be no point. Thought about trying another compression test gage also but it doesn't feel like I'm kicking over 160 psi either. Shouldn't the squish be more?? How much of a difference in power is there with 130psi vs. 160psi? Thanks for the help guys.