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So it's about F'ing time I got to ride this thing. I have been held up two months to find out that Zeeltronic's PCDI-10V WILL NOT WORK WITH THE BANSHEE STATOR! I had replaced every electrical part and even though I was told the banshee stator would work with zeeltronic, I couldn't get it to work. So long story short, bought an RZ stator and flywheel, bolted on, and it started first kick. Here are some pictures before it's maiden voyage. Nice and clean but it got dirty. I was real scared something catastrophic would happen just because that's how I am but came out ok. No major issues but there are some bugs to work out. The difference in bottom end power is night and day compared to a banshee. With the powervalves adjusted, the powerband is smooth and keeps coming. We rode some trails in NE MI and there were a few times I needed a taller gear. I had a 14/37 with 18" tires and I just hit the top end too fast with this motor. I think top speed was around 70-75. I thought the YFZ chassis handled so much better than the Banshee. Much smoother ride and when you hit the gas, the rear end just squats and takes off instead of coming up on a wheelie. I'm sure it's helped a bit from the 4" longer swingarm. The break in is done so I'll tweak the jetting and play with the ignition and powervalve curve settings to see what I like. I think with that and some pipes built for the motor I should have another 8hp left to get out of it. Sucks that it's so late in the year to finally get it going though. It didn't have the pipes on in the "clean" pictures. No rear brake yet either.

No, No, No...You're all taking this too seriously and making it difficult. Just use an Arc welder thats usually available anywhere. Clamp a piece of 6010 rod and turn up to 250 amps. One touch and you'll have the whole pin welded in a second :biggrin: J/K obviously. The other guys have got it right. Tig, no rod be perfect.

I'm pretty sure the pro design is it for the banshee. I searched and found nothing else. I was also told be a few others that know the RZ that said pro design was it.

Well, the way it's going right now using the banshee stator isn't looking too promising. Even though Borut specifically said it would all work with the banshee stator, it's not. That's what gets to me the most. Knowing that first would have saved me from trouble shooting and buying an extra CDI, coil, and stator, plus 2 months of pissing around with it. If I were you, I'd be looking for an RZ stator. Not sure if the flywheel is the same as a banshee either so you may need one of those.

I'll second that. He has good customer service but don't plan on getting your cylinders back over night. Especially during the summer months. I sent mine in February and got them back in mid April. He did do a good job though. At least it looks nice. Havent got to ride it yet.

I've been dicking around with this for a couple months now trying to get this PCDI-10V to produce a good hot spark but no go yet. I'm posting in hopes to find someone that "is currently running/using" this specific CDI so I can verify the wiring of mine. I've talked with zeeltronic and even got a second CDI unit from him with same results so I'm guessing his wiring diagram is inaccurate. I'm using a banshee stator. I wanted to double check here while I wait on Zeeltronic's response.

Got it! Guys at trail tech hooked me up with a good write up on it. They have always been helpful. http://www.trailtech.net/media/instruction...nstructions.pdf

I searched on here and seen that topic also. I know how to float the ground, I just don't know where to bring the extra wire (2nd AC output) out from the OEM stator.

I have looked at a link to Dunereview.com that shows how to do this to an aftermarket stator but I can not figure out how to do it to my stock stator since there isn't a screw that I see holding in the wire for the extra ground like there is in the aftermarket one. I need a DC system to run my zeeltronic CDI. I think that's what's causing me all my problems with it. Can someone post a link or give a quick piece of info on how to do this to a stock stator? Thanks

One of these days I become a premium member I'll edit the topic, but until then....Here are some updated pictures. I sent payment for a stator and CDI unit (just in case) from a member on here. Hopefully that will fix my problem. Not sure if I'm reposting some pictures or not. If I am then they're that good :biggrin: Pretty pic before exhaust Tubes I had to make to clear the rear shock. Another pain but turned out good. Another Pretty motor pic Another pretty pic The hacked up PC exhaust. Biggest pain besides the rear swingarm. Not pretty but should work temporarily until I can get something else made up. Plenty of clearance for my legs though. Seemed the only way I could fit them is to cross them over in the front of the cylinders. Rear exhaust. Certainly not perfect and could use better alignment but I'm to the point of not caring. Front of exhaust. Looks ok at a glance. So there y'all go.

Disadvantage: Bit less on the topend, especially if a ported motor - seems to be more snappy. Power came on extremely fast and hard. (might of had something to do with the PC pipes) Advantages: Only one jet to change - No sychronizing or tuning. Only the one carb - Bit easier on the thumb throttle - awsome mid-low end I had a 2into1 on my bike when I bought it. The motor had been ported but not a full drag port or anything. I had absolutely no complaints about that bike. Performed damn well for a stock stroke/bore bike.

From what I've seen, most bike motors will require you to cut the frame to make it taller, allowing the extra room needed for the height of the motor. The mounts probably wouldn't be too difficult. The exhaust I would imagine to be a PITA. If you do use a normal bike exhaust then your pipes are going to exit under the 'shee. You then loose ground clearance and have to worry about denting the exhaust causing a restriction. I'm sure they would be very reliable as long as you hooked it up right. Most likely you would never get out of 2nd gear, maybe 3rd in the dunes. We rode with a guy last year around the Bull Gap area in Michigan that had a suzuki 900 in his banshee. Seemed to be ok but sure wouldn't jump it or do any hard riding. Just my .02.

Ha, I'll be damn. Never crossed my mind as to having the brings upside down. I've got everything ready to go except getting the damn thing to start. I need to get another stator but have been dragging my feet on it. I've put so much time and money into it and the "no start" kind of threw a wrench into the motivation. I do have updated pictures but just have to remember to bring the damn camera to work and upload them (no internet at home). If the stator turns out to be the problem then it should be going this weekend. I'll try to keep posted.

Trust me, I've already been through all this. Already ohmed everything and all is in spec. I also have spark when kicking over agressively but not with lighter kicks. Thinking it's stator related. It is possible.

I'm trying like hell to go through all the shit on this YFRZ I'm building and have narrowed it down to the stator or CDI being at fault for not starting. I'm leaning towards the stator. Just wanted to know if anyone around the Utica, MI area had an extra banshee stator and/or CDI that I could try out to see if it would start. It would save me a lot of time from pissing in the wind like I have been. Let me know if anyone has anything. Thanks a lot.

This is going to be a freaking 100 post topic by the time I get this damn thing figured out. I changed the static timing in the zeeltronic controller as said by zeeltronic with no results. I took out the stator and I am going to try that. Weird thing is that I get a pulse from it as seen on my zeeltronic programmer regardless whether I see a spark or not. Maybe that's just how that thing works. In regards to rewound stators, how reliable are they? Quality? I don't want to get mine rewound only to have to get a new one later. I figured I'd get it wound for a 200 watt.

It is the stock banshee stator. Still looks nearly new though. No rust. Clean. I even put dielectric grease on all contact points before putting back together. Borut got back with me about the static angle so I'm going to change that and see if that makes a difference. 2strokespirit, go to the Appearance forum and look at my post for YFRZ build. It's not too far down. I have some pictures of the mocked up pipes. They're done now but just have to upload pics. Still going to build some from scratch cause those PC's look like shit.

When I tried it the first time the fuel was nearly straight from the pump. The fuel is only 2 weeks old now and is surely sealed tight. Not a problem there. Tinkered with it more last night and have summarized the below. -Fuel is good -Carbs are clean -Compression is 187psi -Stator pick-up ohms at 90ohms (4 below spec but didn't find that a big deal) -Source coil ohms at 16.5ohms (in spec) -Coil-Primary is .30 ohms (in spec) -Coil-Secondary is 6.5K ohms (in spec) -I've tried two different coils also (in spec) -Pilot jets are 50's It has got to be either the timing with CDI or the stator. I get a good spark when kicking it hard and both plugs are out but when I give it a bit softer kick I don't see a spark most of the time. This is a stator issue, correct? If I can get a spark at all then wouldn't this eliminate a problem with the CDI? Is is possible for the stator to be bad even though it ohms correctly? Thanks all.

Looks like the same for a yfz450 also, $3.04. I'd say they are the same. If you place an order get me a 1 too.

:biggrin: I double checked that last night. Pulled off flywheel and key is still there. This has got to be something stupid.

Ok, so I have changed to 50 pilots in the carbs, cleaned them, and made absolutely sure there is no water anywhere in the fuel. The only thing I'm left with is a spark that isn't happening inside the cylinders. I kicked it over some more last night with the plugs removed and there is plenty of spark "except" when I kick it a bit slower I don't see much. So when I have to kick the motor over with compression then maybe the flywheel isn't spinning fast enough to create the spark needed when the plugs are installed. What the hell would cause this? The next thing I'm going to do is try pull starting it to see if that would do anything. The stator ohms fine though.

This is a complete new setup from crank to CDI, everything. Jim at Passion did my porting and told me to start with the 55 pilots initially according to the carbs and pipes I was using. But the pilots could very well be too big. I did change the timing to 18* so it would be like stock according to J-madd and it still didn't fire. It has fired a few times and did run for maybe 5 seconds and sounded like the timing was ok. One thing I've noticed is that when I pulled the left plug out and layed it over the plug hole to check for spark the 100th time I could feel the motor want to kick back at me when kicking over, like the left cylinder would fire one time. I know I have got to be close. Seems like it's either water in the fuel or too big of jets that are soaking the plugs before they can fire.

Well, guess that could be a difference. Did not know that. If so and I have the timing in the CDI at an actual 7* then its way "retarded" and missing half the combustion stroke, right?

The stock curve Borut had on that Zeeltronic was upwards of 25*+ timing advance for some reason. I adjusted everything down so max is 7*. I only have 5 points for the ignition curve. I'll change it to 0* throughout the RPM range and see if that makes a difference. I'm going to put in some 50 pilots too. I thought it would still fire even though the pilots were a bit large. 1 1/2 turns out on the air screws currently. Was at about 3/4 turn. R. Rollings, YFZ350 with an RZ topend and Zeeltronic controller. Flywheel is fine, magnets are good, new plug caps, and it sparks good when the plugs are unscrewed and layed over the plug holes. I'm going to be out of town for the weekend fishing so when I get back I'll check the post and see what other ideas you guys might have. Some things I am going to do for sure are drop down to the 50 pilots, spray out the carbs with cleaner for possibility of water, and drain/clean out the fuel tank. Water is definitely a possibility of being in that tank. I didn't see anything in there but could have had a little water in the fuel tap. I'll keep updated.

Finally got this YFRZ all wired and at least ready to run. Tried starting it last weekend for the first time. After a lot of kicks it finally sputtered a couple times but that was it. Tried again last night and it ran for a few seconds with the ether I sprayed in it (Don't need a lecture on using that) and that was pretty much it. I checked all the wiring before even attempting to start and all checked. Kill switches, on/off switch, CDI, pick-up gap, ohmed the coil and stator, everything checks. I can pull the plugs and they put out a nice blue spark when kicking over. Bike just won't fire up and go. When it did start using that ether it sounded like it ran like it should. No back fires, knocking, etc. I have fresh 110 fuel mixed with 927 and new plugs (B8ES). I even lit it on fire to make sure the shit would burn. I'm freaking stumped! Plenty of spark, lots of compression, definitly getting fuel, yet no boom. I even tried this morning before coming to work. Still wouldn't even fire using ether. When something don't run with that and everything else checks, something is weird. The odd thing is that I could remove the right plug, lay it across the top of the plug hole, kick it over and every few kicks it felt like the left cylinder would fire once and the right would also want to try but couldn't obviously. Sorry for the long post, just wanted to get all the details in there. Most of the specs are in my Sig. I do have 55 pilots in the carbs but can't see any jetting making a difference at this point.