Wildcardracing

Goin smaller?? I'd love to take those off your hands, not enough funds right now though. I'll keep an ear open for someone lookin for some.

You'll be at 280's max if it is absolutely bone stock except for the fatties. Do a search in the jetting forum and learn how to do a plug chop to verify your jetting :thumbsup:

It will burn down if not fixed immediately! At sea level to 1000' you should be at 260-270 mains, stock needles with the clip in the middle position and 27.5 on the pilot with the airscrews at 1.5 to 2 turns out. Right now with the stock jetting you are very lean probably at 200 main. Hope that helps. If you go to an after market filter setup, aftermarket reeds or portwork in the future it will require rejetting for those mods as well.

Where are you located so we can find an altitude for you. Your jetting is way off if you didn't rejet.

First off let me say welcome to the HQ, there is a wealth of knowledge and experience on here to help you with your quad. Now to your problem, did you change the jetting when you put your pipes on? Please give us an altitude and temperature reference so we can get you close on your jetting. -slo

At sea level with CPI's you should be around 310-320 on your main. I would say 310 with the stock air box. Your needle should be in the middle, keep your 25 pilot with the screws out 1.5 turns should put you real close. You need to do a search on here and learn how to do a plug chop to verify your jetting. CPI's are a very pipey top end pipe and will not have a lot of power in the low end. I think what you're experiencing is a lean condition, which will be even more noticable on a cold engine. You also should be warming your engine up before you ride it.

Should be sitting just right for pumpgas :thumbsup:

Yea, I've got about the same opinion of the PVL. Guys who can get them to work love them, but most just cuss them. Plus, they're so damn expensive. I dunno, might see a tenth or so from it. Much power as your makin as it is, the std. flywheel may not be dragin your motor down much. I imagine the results are much more dramatic with a smaller build like a stock cylinder stock stroke drag port.

My buddy that rode the same bike liked it better too. And he's 300 lbs. He is (was) actually a 4 stroke guy too, so...we might have to void his opinion....LOL. LOL...That's cool, I love how quick mine revs out...but, it can be a pain in tight technical areas. Everyone has different preferences for the way thier bike runs or feels for that matter. I'm just extremely suprised that your not running a shaved flywheel or even a pvl on your 10mil. I think you'd really appreciate the pull with one for your application.

I can do them for $30 plus shipping. But, I seriously doubt you'll like it. BTW Dave, you're the only "big" guy that I've ever heard say he liked a shaved flywheel for other than drag application. I sometimes don't like mine because of the lowend surge(hard to maintain lower rpms), and I only weigh 145

My aggressive dune ported stock stroke with stock carbs on 91octane runs right with a KBR build 523cc yfz with oof pipe on alky and everything stripped off for weight. 60hp stock stroke is easy, I can get you around 65hp on stock stroke that is very rideable on your stock swinger and carbs if you're willing to upgrade your pipes. Or, hit that 60hp mark with your FMF's. You'll be limited to about 70 with your stock carbs. PM me if you're interested. You won't have any problems schooling any bolt on 450's I can assure you. -slo

It will have a full rework of the intakes, exhaust, and transfer ports when it's done. It will also be matched to the pipes and rider weight. The case will be ported as well as the stock reed cages. As well as a host of other engine mods I offer with my banshee engine package. It will be a very stout low to mid engine with a broad and very smooth power band.

I don't offer it on any of my builds and especially don't recommend it on cast pistons. The power gain as blowit said is only 1-2 hp and isnt' worth the reliability lost IMO. I've seen several engines come apart with less than a tank of fuel through them because the builder took too much material out of the windows and pistons broke. Just my .02, It's more of a drag specific option and on a drag motor that 1-2hp could be the difference between loosing and winning.

Where are you located??

When you gonna step up to some portwork??

On a 98', yes I'd definately change the small end bearings.

I only said that about two to three sizes on the pilot statement as an example of how far off your pilot would have to be to affect your main. Most people will be no more than one size off on the pilot. Before the bulk of the jetting even starts they will have to sync thier carbs and will have adjusted the air screws and idle screws (or knob if TORS equiped) to atain a good idle. Once they have the air screws adjusted they will know which way they will have to go on the pilot for final jetting. Agreed, if it's stumbling and bogging in the low end you will tune on your pilot first, but for the final jetting you start with the main and work your way down.

Others will most certainly argue on this one. My honest opinion is that price vs. gain, no. You are better off to go with ported stock reed cages and some good aftermarket petals (about $100 cheaper if you have a builder do the cage mod). I however do plan on using a set on the dyno to rule out all doubt on this subject. That $100 you save would make a healthy down payment on a port job, which is no doubt a larger gain than the reeds.

I can't beat that price. I source mine through Western Power. $65 is a hell of a deal considering list on them is $114.99 each. I usually recommend replacing the bearings, depending on hours, wear and budget. If it's a low hour engine in for porting only (not burned down) and the owner is on a tight budget then I'll reuse them. But, they are only @$10 each.

You can acctually get a very wide smooth power band and strong mid range with CPI's....With the right portwork. I recommend the CPI's with all of my more aggressive port jobs. T5's are a very good all around pipe though, very suitable for anything from trails to dunes. But CPI's will have the edge in the top end.

If your builder has any concept of what he's doin, he should be matching your portwork to your current pipes or have recommended a pipe that works well with his porting. I would talk to him first. Your DMC's are actually a descent trail (midrange) pipe.

Yes, the pilot does flow some at all throttle positions. But it is such a minute amount of fuel that it wouldn't affect your main size unless you were way off on pilot size ie: two or three sizes too big (in which case you may not even be able to start it). The main has more effect on the needle than the needle on the main, this is why it is adjusted first, then needle then pilot. Keep in mind that you should always do one last plug chop to verify your main after all jetting has been dialed in to make sure the other adjustments haven't affected it.

BTW, heres a kick ass snow mobile hill climb. :thumbsup: Sno king (Jackson Hole) is pretty cool to watch in person. Haven't been in quite some time, back then only a few made it over the top. Nowdays, it's a timed event that few don't make it over. Crazy how much has changed with sleds the past few years.

Check your carb sync, both carb slides need to be exactly the same hieght at idle and raise at exactly the same time when the throttle is applied. Also check to make sure your pilot air screws are at the same setting.

I stick with what has always worked for me, Wiseco's