Wildcardracing

Your stockers really should be fine with a play port and FMF's, don't know why your at 380mains though. Have to be on the hairy edge of runnin your bowls dry with that big of jets. Need to figure out what is going on there :shrug: For your mods, if you insist on getting carbs...I would recommend 28 or 30mm TM Mikunis. 28's will retain more bottom to mid power, and the 30's will give you more mid to top power with a slight loss in the bottom end.

Just sold him a set of pipes, have to ship them tomorrow. I told him I didn't expect payment till I gave him a confirmation #, but he paid in advance anyways. It's nice to deal with buyers that you don't have to track down to get your $$. I look forward to doing more business with him in the future.

Doesn't really need posted (I think just about everyone on here knows kiel), but I'm givin some feedback anyways. Just bought a crank from him, and the transaction was flawless. He's a great seller. I won't hesitate to do business with him again. Thanks :thumbsup:

I think someone has a repair manual pinned on here. More to it than I could type, and wouldn't want to leave any important steps out. Biggest thing is to diagnose what caused the burn down so it doesn't just do it again.

Hard market, thought this thing would move fast. I'm sure it would if I could post some pics :shrug: It's still for sale. Make me some offers.

Pipes are sold. Thanks ClimbAnyHill!!!

Fatties or knarly's would be suited to a trail motor, haven't any experience with the SST's so I couldn't say on those. I mention those three because they are the only ones currently in production. Fatties being more orientated to the midrange and knarly's more to the bottom. I'm not big myself on the 2into1 intakes, conservative dual carbs make nearly as much bottom end and will kill a 2into1 in the top end. T5's are more of a high mid pipe, suited to a dune motor.

elwilliams13 live right there in Naples as well, he's a great fella. PM him he may be interested in ridin with ya.

Just a breather line, an other one comes from behind your water pump cover, they tee together right above your carbs and the line then runs along your electrical harness.

I agree with snop on this one. Are you trying to build a good trail motor or an aggressive play/drag motor. Where are you wanting more power, in the top end or bottom to mid. 35mm carbs are way overkill on a trail motor. The CPI's are working against your current portwork(if it is in fact a trail port). If you want a good midrange trail motor, ditch the CPI's in favor of some Pro-Circuits, PT mids or even FMF's. Go no larger than 30's for carbs, preferably 28's. You'll see a huge bottom to mid increase. Timing was also mentioned and a good mod whatever you decide to build. If you want a strong top end motor, keep the CPI's and have the portwork matched to them. 32-35mm carbs would be ideal for that setup. As mentioned you will want a longer swingarm if you go this route. Or go somewhat middle of the road with the same pipes metioned earlier or even T-5's and no larger than 32's for carbs. It would help a ton to know where your exhaust and transfer durations are at, so I could recommend the perfect pipe to get the most out of your portwork. Hope that all helps a little.

You guys crack me up :yelrotflmao: Be nice!!! As far as the port work goes, who knows who did it. Are you looking to get some portwork done??? I'm sure you will get many recommendations from members on here if that's what your looking for. There are a lot of good builders on this site and others. My advice is to talk to several builders and go with the one that you feel the best about. Best to go with one that even specializes in banshees for that matter. A good builder will ask you questions such as your intended riding or racing style, where you ride, how much you weigh, what you're looking to get out of the engine and your budget that you feel comfortable putting into it. Speed cost's money and the options with a banshee are absolutely endless.

That's a damn good number from a stock stroke/cylinder setup. I would say it's very possible on alky with the right supporting mods and builder expertise. I think it's probably pushing the hp limit of a stock stroke/cylinder combo very hard. That's assuming a naturally aspirated motor. I recall a conversation with Kim at K&T, he told me his best 350 went 75 hp. I have seen enough to believe 82 is achievable. That's just a very impressive number on a "OEM" cylinder 350.

Sorry, lookin to get cash for this one. It's currently on the bike in my sig, nothing wrong with it. Just makin room for my Wildcard Racing billet head by Noss. Someone's got to be lookin for a great deal on a nice head. There are absolutely no blemishes on this one. I just figure if I'm gonna be sellin the Noss heads I had better be sportin one myself. Someone??

I always recommend to do 4 heat cycles then retorque the cylinder and head studs. Then perform a thourough plug chop or series. Then ride it as you would normally.

+1 for struts, that's pretty much all I do to convert my duner into a drag quad for the occassional sand drag. Helps your launch and shave a lot of weight ditching those heavy shocks and springs.

Thanks for the feedback! I am very glad to hear that you are pleased with the results of my work. :thumbsup: You'll have to let me know how the race season goes. Keep in touch. Thanks, -Brandon

PM Snopcynski (SP), he knows the 2into1's bout as good as anyone on here. Sorry, guess I assumed you had jeff port it too.

No, just leave the hole open. As far as the jetting, post a list of all of your mods as well as port type. Someone will have some input for you. I won't be able to help ya much on the 2into1...don't deal with those.

With the right builder you could have a nice dune/drag engine and a few suspension mods on that budget.

No problems there, that hole is just a drain hole so the gas/oil and water don't pool on top of your case. I think it's 1500cc of oil off the top of my head, about a quart and a half. Make sure to do some plug chops to get your jetting dialed in before you take it out on a good ride.

.030" is the max I recommend just milling off the head, any more than that and you'll need to have it rechambered to correct the squish. The stock carbs can only be bored to 27.5mm before you run into the slide bore. For a fun dune bike, I recommend an aggressive dune port with CPI inframes. Just look into the mods on the bike in my sig, very competitive on the hill...yet still well within reason for fast trails and great in the dunes. Even better would be a 4mil. All of your mods need to be tailored to work well together and work well for your riding style. The biggest factor most people have to consider is budget. How much are you willing to put into your shee to get the desired results. Answering that question will help us to form a plan for your build.

82 hp!!!!!!! What kind of dyno, and what exactly do you mean by stock????

What kind of cages/reeds are you running?

The stingers were cut right in front of the mufflers, so they use the factory head pipe to stinger clamps to hold them together(not sure why they were cut, to run without silencers I guess :shrug: ). I'll try to get some pics uploaded, but not having much luck. Digital camera took a dump. :sad:

He's talkin about L-S Utah. Let me know what days you all plan on bein at Little Sahara (UT), I'm going to try to make it out for a day. -Brandon